Yikes! Sticking either direction can be disastrous. Glad you managed to track down the problem and fix it. That's a B-Series motor in your car? What year is it?
I had a carpet peel back in my other Elan that caused the pedal to stick all the way down, with predictable results. Fortunately that motor is rev-limited, and has a steel bottom end so could actually rev to 7k - I dumped the clutch then lifted the pedal with my foot. Fixed that situation as soon as I got home!
I had a carpet peel back in my other Elan that caused the pedal to stick all the way down, with predictable results. Fortunately that motor is rev-limited, and has a steel bottom end so could actually rev to 7k - I dumped the clutch then lifted the pedal with my foot. Fixed that situation as soon as I got home!
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The Elva Courier is a 1959 with a transplant B-series 1800cc. Mine is the second one down at the link.
We used to have a 1975 VW van. The nice thing about is there is an access panel so you can get to the top of the engine from the back.
One day my older brother was driving up the Mississippi river bridge at Baton Rouge and the accelerator cable breaks. We were still going uphill and it was not a good place to be stopped. I was able to open the hatch and pull the carb cable and get us up the hill. We rigged some sort of rope to the back so we could get home.
One day my older brother was driving up the Mississippi river bridge at Baton Rouge and the accelerator cable breaks. We were still going uphill and it was not a good place to be stopped. I was able to open the hatch and pull the carb cable and get us up the hill. We rigged some sort of rope to the back so we could get home.
That's too awesome. You remind me of my best friend Matt but he's an electrician. What a coincidence...
I blew up the 400SB in my Impala... I actually got it to seize. I scrapped it for 10$ on the off ramp to Victoria Park. That was my last domestic car.
Last time I did a head gasket I needed more tools than that, but I did get my VW off the highway when the timing belt slipped. I was on the way to a friends with all the tools to change it anyway when it slipped and the engine died (thankfully it wasn't negative clearance). I tighetned it up, advanced the timing about 60 degrees, and got it to sputter off the roadway to a local mall parking lot where I did it properly. It was -20 Celsius and I was on the shoulder of a major highway interchange ramp.
It doesn't look bad in the summer, but in the winter the shoulder is full of snowbank. Lucky I didn't get flattened by an 18 wheeler.
If any of this crap happened now, I'd be waiting for CAA.
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Another ribbon. Same old story. Wife turns on TV - no sound, so the volume goes all the way up. Still no sound. Oh, the Hopper is off. Click. Blasting commercial comes on at zero dB full scale. Ever since they “updated” the darn thing to still show a picture when the unit is “off”, with just a message at the bottom that says “press Select to watch TV”). This wouldn’t happen if the screen stayed BLACK.
I can play music all day long at that volume and not melt them, but spoken voice compressed to 3dB dynamic range and poof. It was only one channel this time.
Anyone know where to get R1 ribbons these days? I only have 5 left in my stash.
I can play music all day long at that volume and not melt them, but spoken voice compressed to 3dB dynamic range and poof. It was only one channel this time.
Anyone know where to get R1 ribbons these days? I only have 5 left in my stash.
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My dad's old amp sounded fine but only made about 1W... Instead of the tubes biasing to 28V, there was one at 4V and another at 18V...
A pair of new tubes and it's making 10W again.
A pair of new tubes and it's making 10W again.
It's a point to point prototype of my Little Miracle wired for triode mode.
After a year, I gave him four tubes to put in. Apparently two of them were weak already (because why would I test them first, right? 🙄 )
After a year, I gave him four tubes to put in. Apparently two of them were weak already (because why would I test them first, right? 🙄 )
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My goodness, same thing happened to me and BF coming back from Madison-on-the-Lake Ohio -- it was Ohio SR 44 and the cable snapped. We jury-rigged a string. Stopped by a cop as we were going so slow, but he just a laughed. This was 1967!
Interesting build.
You seem to like toroids eh?
Me, I'm strictly old school traditional.
Once, my throttle spring broke on my '69 Chevelle.
That was a pain getting it back home.
Once my half shaft went on my Ford Cortina.
It came out of the back axle.
So I jacked up the car and pushed it back in and drove the car a few yards until I came to a farm yard where i could leave it for now.
Couldnt get a half shaft for it so had to buy a second hand rear axle.
Not much fun removing old one and fitting new one on my back in farm yard.
Someone had broken the half shaft at some time and had welded it up to fix it.
The weld wasnt straight and put a twist on the axle causing bearing to eventually fail.
It came out of the back axle.
So I jacked up the car and pushed it back in and drove the car a few yards until I came to a farm yard where i could leave it for now.
Couldnt get a half shaft for it so had to buy a second hand rear axle.
Not much fun removing old one and fitting new one on my back in farm yard.
Someone had broken the half shaft at some time and had welded it up to fix it.
The weld wasnt straight and put a twist on the axle causing bearing to eventually fail.
Ditto, except it was a 1968 Camaro convertible with a highly modified 350 inch V8. Ever try "drive by (speaker) wire" when there is about an inch between idle and burning rubber? Fortunately I only had a couple miles to go.
We had an old Ford Escort at the school autoshop that had a bad fuel line. Mascard (the teacher) rigged up a Jerry can under the hood and connected it to the cam driven fuel pump.
Another time we used string for a throttle cable...
My current car doesn't even have a throttle plate!
Another time we used string for a throttle cable...
My current car doesn't even have a throttle plate!
It depends what is called "better". They don't filter incoming garbage as other types and some like to hum with only a very slight DC component on the mains voltage. For power transformers that is. For wideband use they can be quite good.
What is there to like when used as power transformer is that they're cheap and available.
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The VW van sure was not going to burn rubber if we messed up pulling the throttle on the carb.
Never had a humming toroidal coil yet (knock wood), only EI - I have a Hammond that sounds like a substation (278CX) LOL
And as you said, for wideband, they work well (there's a reason I build all my designs using pairs of Triad toroid PTs) and they cost less than a typical EI OPT.
Everyone I've had do an A/B compare preferred the toroidal setup (compared to Hammond 1650N) due to "better" LF and "clearer" HF. Granted I drive them with low rp triode strapped tubes - using my setup for tetrodes might not work as well.
Still they don't filter garbage on mains power as much as EI/ C-core/R-core types. Imagine one of those for power and toroids for outputs. Bingo.
I'll take that trade off when you consider they are more efficient and have less flux leakage etc.
Besides, that's what PSU filtering is for... 😀
Typically, I buy the cheapest PT I can get. I sold an amp a couple of months ago that used a Jameco 300VA isolation transformer for power (because it was 65$ from Amazon).
Works like a charm.
Besides, that's what PSU filtering is for... 😀
Typically, I buy the cheapest PT I can get. I sold an amp a couple of months ago that used a Jameco 300VA isolation transformer for power (because it was 65$ from Amazon).
Works like a charm.
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