I prefer solid core wiring too.
Reason being, it's easier to work with, doesn't fray and cause shorts, and stiff enough to be dressed neatly.
Reason being, it's easier to work with, doesn't fray and cause shorts, and stiff enough to be dressed neatly.
So far so good...
Sony VA333ES / STR-DA4ES. Protection mode.
Two million bad solder joints and still in protection mode. Changed two caps in the protection circuit. Still on after 15 minutes. Fingers crossed🙂
Sony VA333ES / STR-DA4ES. Protection mode.
Two million bad solder joints and still in protection mode. Changed two caps in the protection circuit. Still on after 15 minutes. Fingers crossed🙂
Those late 90's/early 2000's Sony HT receivers are notorious for bad overheated solder joints. - they run unreasonably hot in use.
I've done tons of them for customers through the years, all with the same problems.
Most likely areas are ANYthing mounted to a heatsink (regulators, etc), and any power resistors, and the packaged driver chips.
Also, those pathetic plug-in jumper mini-boards connecting various parts of the unit. - a magnifying glass reveals "ring joints" on them, as well as the connector on the board that they fit to.
You need to go over the whole unit with a magnifier and inspect those things carefully under good lighting.
Right? Imagine if components like resistors and capacitors had stranded leads and what a pain in the butt it would be to build anything. Like threading a bloody needle!
I just happened to see this thread, and thought I'd chime in with "The Last Thing I Repaired".
Actually, I haven't finished repairing it yet, it's a work in progress. One of my microphone cables has/had an ITT Cannon connector on the male end. Well, the darn pins have corroded. Poor choice of metal. I noticed this about 20 years ago. So, I haven't used that cable in quite a long time. That's kind of irritating, since 50 feet of good Belden 8402 cable shouldn't just be laying around, not earning its keep.
Well, about 5 years ago, I decided to replace that connector, so, I bought a new Switchcraft connector, like all my other ones are. (BTW, all my other microphone cables are Belden 8412, this is the only 8402 cable I have. I like the 8412 better, but that's irrelevant here.) So, Phase 1 is done: Bought the new connector.
More recently, about two years ago, I cut off the old ITT connector. Who cares about losing two inches of length on a 50 foot cable? Not me. Sure beats taking the ITT connector apart and un-soldering the conductors. Know what I mean? Phase 2 done.
Next is to strip/prep the new end. Then, cut open the little bag that the new Switchcraft connector is in. I'll consider both of those tasks to be Phase 3.
Phase 4 will be to do the actual soldering. I must remember to put the connector housing onto the cable before soldering the conductors. (Note to self.)
I expect this project to be fully completed by the end of this year.
🙂
Actually, I haven't finished repairing it yet, it's a work in progress. One of my microphone cables has/had an ITT Cannon connector on the male end. Well, the darn pins have corroded. Poor choice of metal. I noticed this about 20 years ago. So, I haven't used that cable in quite a long time. That's kind of irritating, since 50 feet of good Belden 8402 cable shouldn't just be laying around, not earning its keep.
Well, about 5 years ago, I decided to replace that connector, so, I bought a new Switchcraft connector, like all my other ones are. (BTW, all my other microphone cables are Belden 8412, this is the only 8402 cable I have. I like the 8412 better, but that's irrelevant here.) So, Phase 1 is done: Bought the new connector.
More recently, about two years ago, I cut off the old ITT connector. Who cares about losing two inches of length on a 50 foot cable? Not me. Sure beats taking the ITT connector apart and un-soldering the conductors. Know what I mean? Phase 2 done.
Next is to strip/prep the new end. Then, cut open the little bag that the new Switchcraft connector is in. I'll consider both of those tasks to be Phase 3.
Phase 4 will be to do the actual soldering. I must remember to put the connector housing onto the cable before soldering the conductors. (Note to self.)
I expect this project to be fully completed by the end of this year.
🙂
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Stranded wire is more durable in any situation where there is some movement or vibration to deal with. Solid-core wire suffers metal fatigue and fails more easily under these conditions.
This is why you won't find solid-core wires in your car's electrical wiring harness. 🙂
For the same reason, I prefer using stranded wire for runs from PCBs to panel-mounted pots, switches, and so on, which inevitably move a tiny bit every time they're used.
-Gnobuddy
There is some chance you might be a Waitabit. 🙂 ( The Waitabits - Wikipedia )
"The Waitabits" was definitely one of the more creative and enjoyable short science-fiction stories I've ever read.
-Gnobuddy
It's true to an extent. Like the motion of the wiring loom in the trunk lid. The microscopic movement of a pot (if any) is hardly a concern to me 🙂 Indeed, I find the extra stiffness stops that kind of motion in the first place.
Notice they don't use stranded wire in electrical systems? My wall plugs move a lot more than a pot in an amp, but #14 copper seems not to mind this at all (even while backstabbed), and fishing stranded wire would be super annoying.
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Sure, but much more than that - car engines vibrate continuously, thousands of times a minute. Wheels move erratically with the road surface, vibrating and shaking and twisting the entire vehicle body constantly. Wind, driving dynamics, braking, acceleration, gear changes - all of these apply shaking forces to every mass in the car, including the wiring looms. Copper wire is surprisingly heavy, which is why drag racers will often strip out every unnecessary inch of wire - and since f = ma, there are significant vibrating forces tugging and twisting and shaking all the copper wire in the car whenever the vehicle is moving, or the engine is running.
All this is why solid wiring is a no-no in automobiles. I assume it's the same story in aircraft electrical systems, where reliability is even more important.
...but a lot less than the wiring loom in a car!
So there are some applications where solid wire is entirely suitable (like your house wiring), and other applications where solid wire is completely unacceptable (like your car).
And then there are places where either type of wire will probably do the job satisfactorily, for a long time. DIY audio amplifiers sitting quietly in a living-room probably fall into this third category.
I concur. 🙂
-Gnobuddy
In the case of electronic equipment, there is an alternative. Stranded wire with solder in it already before the sheath goes on. More durable than solid wire, not as durable as stranded wire. Definitely better than the light 22 ga solid wire Pioneer used in its junk.
Small gauge solid wire tends to fatigue and break when wire wrapped or soldered into holes. I like to use solid wire in my builds (tube amps) as it can be easier to work with. 20 gauge is normally the smallest I use, but I have used 22 gauge. The smaller wire does better when harnessed (and that looks great too!). A copper wire is far more durable than the steel wire we normally find.
-Chris
Small gauge solid wire tends to fatigue and break when wire wrapped or soldered into holes. I like to use solid wire in my builds (tube amps) as it can be easier to work with. 20 gauge is normally the smallest I use, but I have used 22 gauge. The smaller wire does better when harnessed (and that looks great too!). A copper wire is far more durable than the steel wire we normally find.
-Chris
When I first started building, I was using #24 solid. My go to now is 0.5mm for almost everything 🙂
I last repaired a Bose 1801 stereo power amplifier.
Mains fuse blew immediately after switch on.
The bridge rectifier was short circuit, and also one of the giant power supply capacitors (18000 µF/100V) was a dead short.
Replaced the bridge rectifier and the two power supply capacitors.
Mains fuse blew immediately after switch on.
The bridge rectifier was short circuit, and also one of the giant power supply capacitors (18000 µF/100V) was a dead short.
Replaced the bridge rectifier and the two power supply capacitors.
A Tektronix 213 DMM Oscilloscope.
When switching on, the mains fuse blows and the internal battery charger
blows one of its switching transistors.
The problem was situated in "option 1" as Tektronix calls it.
Option 1 is for 230VAC mains, a 10nF/250VAC is fitted, the 110VAC version has a wire link in this position.
This capacitor got conductive, so the instrument behaved as wired for 110VAC on the 230VACmains.
It took me a lot of time, the offending capacitor looked and measured O.K., only when connecting this capacitor to a variable power supply, above 70V it became conductive.
AS a footnote, it's a pitty that the text above the controls fades very easily, and that the control knobs have become very brittle and can crumble apart.
When switching on, the mains fuse blows and the internal battery charger
blows one of its switching transistors.
The problem was situated in "option 1" as Tektronix calls it.
Option 1 is for 230VAC mains, a 10nF/250VAC is fitted, the 110VAC version has a wire link in this position.
This capacitor got conductive, so the instrument behaved as wired for 110VAC on the 230VACmains.
It took me a lot of time, the offending capacitor looked and measured O.K., only when connecting this capacitor to a variable power supply, above 70V it became conductive.
AS a footnote, it's a pitty that the text above the controls fades very easily, and that the control knobs have become very brittle and can crumble apart.
Nakamichi CR 7 Tape.
R Channel no sound from time to time.
EQ always 120 us, no 70 possible.
Several bugs.
First, orange cap cure. Replace alle of them . Bugs almost gone.
Lucky punch, output mute Transistor created Channel drop out, new Tr, Problem gone.
EQ . uP no change at output, input change worked clearly. uP output dead, part obsolete.
Installed a manual to use switch on backside, acting as replacement of the uP driven Switchtransistor. Success. All in all around 1,5 days fix....
Actually working on a pair ML 20 Monos, really bitchy, Zeners self desoldering, thin layered copper traces self destroyed due heat, no schematics, no chance to read type of Zeners due heat burn out, some caps in the regulated PS desoldered their legs internally and so on.
Close to shut them down and throw away. So much effort and always new bugs instead of success.
We will see...
R Channel no sound from time to time.
EQ always 120 us, no 70 possible.
Several bugs.
First, orange cap cure. Replace alle of them . Bugs almost gone.
Lucky punch, output mute Transistor created Channel drop out, new Tr, Problem gone.
EQ . uP no change at output, input change worked clearly. uP output dead, part obsolete.
Installed a manual to use switch on backside, acting as replacement of the uP driven Switchtransistor. Success. All in all around 1,5 days fix....
Actually working on a pair ML 20 Monos, really bitchy, Zeners self desoldering, thin layered copper traces self destroyed due heat, no schematics, no chance to read type of Zeners due heat burn out, some caps in the regulated PS desoldered their legs internally and so on.
Close to shut them down and throw away. So much effort and always new bugs instead of success.
We will see...
Thanks for tip!
Yes the whole unit have bin in bits and every solder point have been inspected with magnifying glass and good light. Horrible!
Today i fixed a integrated TagMcLaren Aphrodite.
Problem : CD don't tracks, don't start , display says *reading error*
Solution was to clean the laser lens and IR-Detector for CD in.
Customer smokes massive amounts of cigars, nicotine residuals blinded laser and IR.
At least one hour cleaning service....
Really sticky fingers thereafter...
Problem : CD don't tracks, don't start , display says *reading error*
Solution was to clean the laser lens and IR-Detector for CD in.
Customer smokes massive amounts of cigars, nicotine residuals blinded laser and IR.
At least one hour cleaning service....
Really sticky fingers thereafter...
Ugh. I used to work in a shop that repaired gear for a lot of the working bar bands in our area, and whenever they'd bring in one of their road cases full of gear, the shop would just reek. The cheaper carpet-covered cases were the worst - especially the ones from the local strip clubs, which usually had remnants of glitter and silly-string and I don't even want to know what else.
I was glad when the no-smoking rules in bars & restaurants took hold.
I was glad when the no-smoking rules in bars & restaurants took hold.
A new build model railway shuttle controller.
It powered up ok but crashed as soon as relay went off.
Did a good inspection of pcb and spotted flywheel diode not soldered on one pin.
It powered up ok but crashed as soon as relay went off.
Did a good inspection of pcb and spotted flywheel diode not soldered on one pin.