That can is very old. I got it with some other firearms related items from an old gentlemen who used to sell me reloading supplies. He passed back around 1998.
Well, the Kelvin leads were fritzed -- had to get out the Connex crimper and some new BNC's. Also had the ground lead for a scope probe go this afternoon.
Hi Ed (do I have that right?),
I have had to repair some equipment under warranty. I can say that many distributors do not have any understanding of surface mount technology and demand unreasonable things of service depots.
The high density PCBs you are talking about ought to be replacement only. Of course, we are also in an age where there just isn't any real stock of parts at distributors (should be illegal ---> right of repair).
Real two channel stereo is still spaced out like you are familiar with and power densities are normal. Long life and good sound result. So while having surround sound can be nice, it isn't realistic to expect it to last, or even sound good. Not good like a dedicated like a stereo rig does. I have a surround / TV system in one room, and the larger room gets the big stereo system that sounds excellent. One system doesn't do it all unless you run the TV sound in stereo. We tend to do that.
-Chris
I have had to repair some equipment under warranty. I can say that many distributors do not have any understanding of surface mount technology and demand unreasonable things of service depots.
The high density PCBs you are talking about ought to be replacement only. Of course, we are also in an age where there just isn't any real stock of parts at distributors (should be illegal ---> right of repair).
Real two channel stereo is still spaced out like you are familiar with and power densities are normal. Long life and good sound result. So while having surround sound can be nice, it isn't realistic to expect it to last, or even sound good. Not good like a dedicated like a stereo rig does. I have a surround / TV system in one room, and the larger room gets the big stereo system that sounds excellent. One system doesn't do it all unless you run the TV sound in stereo. We tend to do that.
-Chris
So, what kind of grease do I need for the transport mechanism?
I have wheel bearing grease and Lithium Grease for doing Zerts fittings.
Probably not the right kind of grease for this application.
I have wheel bearing grease and Lithium Grease for doing Zerts fittings.
Probably not the right kind of grease for this application.
Hi wiseoldtech,
I can't agree 100% with you. I understand your reasoning to some degree. I still stock and use 12 or more lubricants in order to do a proper job. I use something like your Super Lube sometimes for CD clampers and mechanism parts involving tray loading. I even use gun oil in some areas (it's really good stuff). But you have to at least start with the right lubricants. If something is badly worn as you've indicated you have to go off script. In those cases, your approach may well be the best way. But if things are still running well and not worn, stick with what the manufacturer stipulates - or at least use something close to what they want.
-Chris
I can't agree 100% with you. I understand your reasoning to some degree. I still stock and use 12 or more lubricants in order to do a proper job. I use something like your Super Lube sometimes for CD clampers and mechanism parts involving tray loading. I even use gun oil in some areas (it's really good stuff). But you have to at least start with the right lubricants. If something is badly worn as you've indicated you have to go off script. In those cases, your approach may well be the best way. But if things are still running well and not worn, stick with what the manufacturer stipulates - or at least use something close to what they want.
-Chris
For rubber, any comments?
Amazon.com: MG Chemicals 408A-125ML Rubber Renue, 125 ml Liquid Bottle: Industrial & Scientific
Amazon.com: MG Chemicals 408A-125ML Rubber Renue, 125 ml Liquid Bottle: Industrial & Scientific
This looks like someone re-packaged oil. No MSDS or any real info.
Amazon.com: Liquid Bearings Synthetic Oil For Tape Decks: Home Audio & Theater
Amazon.com: Liquid Bearings Synthetic Oil For Tape Decks: Home Audio & Theater
Hi TheGimp,
What does the manual say to use in each situation? Start there and try to use something at least similar. Basically the slower something moves, the heavier weight lubricant you would use. You also want stuff that will stay where it's put and not visit everything else in the mechanism. There isn't any exact thing as the manufacturer simply decided on what they wanted to use out of a host of suitable lubricants. Once you understand that, selecting a replacement becomes less stressful.
-Chris
What does the manual say to use in each situation? Start there and try to use something at least similar. Basically the slower something moves, the heavier weight lubricant you would use. You also want stuff that will stay where it's put and not visit everything else in the mechanism. There isn't any exact thing as the manufacturer simply decided on what they wanted to use out of a host of suitable lubricants. Once you understand that, selecting a replacement becomes less stressful.
-Chris
They claim everything is permanently lubricated.
The only recommendation is "#10 motor oil" for top and bottom motor bearings, flywheel bearings, pressure roller bearings, idler and drive wheel bearings, and reel spindle bearings.
Nothing mentioned about toggle mechanisms.
This is a Sams Photofact so it is pretty skimpy.
A lot of the grease looks to me like dried up wheel bearing grease.
The only recommendation is "#10 motor oil" for top and bottom motor bearings, flywheel bearings, pressure roller bearings, idler and drive wheel bearings, and reel spindle bearings.
Nothing mentioned about toggle mechanisms.
This is a Sams Photofact so it is pretty skimpy.
A lot of the grease looks to me like dried up wheel bearing grease.
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Hi TheGimp,
No one considered this unit would still be around 50 years after it was sold. So "permanently lubricated" is probably closer to 10 years, maybe 20.
Okay, so they are asking for 10W oil without any additives of any kind. Toggle mechanisms would be a heavy grease or lubricant like what wiseoldtech uses.
-Chris
No one considered this unit would still be around 50 years after it was sold. So "permanently lubricated" is probably closer to 10 years, maybe 20.
Okay, so they are asking for 10W oil without any additives of any kind. Toggle mechanisms would be a heavy grease or lubricant like what wiseoldtech uses.
-Chris
My readily available options are (1) Wheel Bearing Grease, (2) Molybdenum (Moly) Grease, and (3) white Lithium Grease. All three are probably equivalent or better than what they had in 1970s. Any recommendation on these Chris?
How about silicone grease for plastic parts? Is this compatable?
How about silicone grease for plastic parts? Is this compatable?
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I'll pick up a tube of the Super Lube synthetic grease at the local Harbor freight. $7 is a wash for a project like this.
By the way, the Super Lube Silicone Dielectric Grease is a food grade grease so it can be used on conry kegs for lubricating the "O" rings for beer dispensing. I wonder if it would be good on rubber parts?
By the way, the Super Lube Silicone Dielectric Grease is a food grade grease so it can be used on conry kegs for lubricating the "O" rings for beer dispensing. I wonder if it would be good on rubber parts?
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That stuff's crap - nothing more than an epray gold digger product. AKA snake oil.
Indeed, I bought 4 tubes at the Harbor Freight. And yes, it's also good for lubing O rings in faucets etc.
I tossed that old lithuim grease in the trash years ago - the stuff dries out and gets messy. It's old hat, been around for decades, but I found the Super Lube to be WAY better.
Chris, I've got other lubricants/greases, but they have their uses as well. Super "S" red wheel bearing grease is good for sliding surfaces requiring some friction/viscous effect, such as the "pimple" area of the main lever on Dual turntables. Hoppes Gun Oil is also handy for certain things, besides my Colt .38 And a very thin watch oil for delicate areas.
But after decades of working on turntables, tape decks and such, I think by now I'm well-versed on what lubricants do.
Hi wiseoldtech,
A lot was expected of you and you learned mostly by being thrown in the deep end with an older tech monitoring what you were doing. I even had to prove I was worth teaching! This and I also had a formal education in electronics. Perhaps it was the last technician that trained me for a few years. He was Austrian and my toughest mentor by far. Pretty much by the book, but I could see where he was coming from.
I consider myself to have been incredibly lucky to have had the training I did. More a circumstance of time, place and opportunity. It's really sad that today's technician hasn't got access to the resources we did.
We are both old farts. We are bound to have differences of opinion.
-Chris
With my 45+ years experience as a professional tech working on tables (they were my first responsibility as a young tech), my experience differs from yours somewhat. Similar, but different. But then I had the benefit of being taught by old TV and radio techs, and also by the distributors of both test equipment and radio - audio equipment.
A lot was expected of you and you learned mostly by being thrown in the deep end with an older tech monitoring what you were doing. I even had to prove I was worth teaching! This and I also had a formal education in electronics. Perhaps it was the last technician that trained me for a few years. He was Austrian and my toughest mentor by far. Pretty much by the book, but I could see where he was coming from.
I consider myself to have been incredibly lucky to have had the training I did. More a circumstance of time, place and opportunity. It's really sad that today's technician hasn't got access to the resources we did.
We are both old farts. We are bound to have differences of opinion.
-Chris
Maybe I should start a new thread on the restoration so as not to monopolize this thread.
I didn't get any advice under Line Source, and this is a tube based system, so I'm thinking of the tube section as being appropriate.
Any suggestions?
I didn't get any advice under Line Source, and this is a tube based system, so I'm thinking of the tube section as being appropriate.
Any suggestions?
My TV died yesterday.
I went across to it to if I could see what was wrong and I heard a crackling sound.
I looked down and the extension mains lead neon was flickering.
So I replaced the extension lead with a new one and the TV is fine now.
I went across to it to if I could see what was wrong and I heard a crackling sound.
I looked down and the extension mains lead neon was flickering.
So I replaced the extension lead with a new one and the TV is fine now.
Hi TheGimp,
Yes, a thread on the restoration of your tape machine would be excellent. It really is a line source, so a thread under "Analogue Source " would be the best. The fact that the electronics are tube technology really doesn't fit - yet. You are going to get the mechanical issues fixed before sallying forth into the electronics. If you have further problems, you could remain in that same thread, which I would recommend. The other option would be under "Analog Line Level". That decision would lose continuity with the rest of the work.
-Chris
Yes, a thread on the restoration of your tape machine would be excellent. It really is a line source, so a thread under "Analogue Source " would be the best. The fact that the electronics are tube technology really doesn't fit - yet. You are going to get the mechanical issues fixed before sallying forth into the electronics. If you have further problems, you could remain in that same thread, which I would recommend. The other option would be under "Analog Line Level". That decision would lose continuity with the rest of the work.
-Chris
My Logitech 3-button USB mouse with unwanted double click. I resurfaced the pitted and oxidized silver contacts of the three switches and it works as new again 😉