I just finished up a Total Teardown and Complete Overhaul of a sweet 1966 era Dual 1009F turntable.
Installed a new cartridge carrier that came in the mail today, and a Stanton cartridge.
I even have the stacker spindle included with it.
The thing's in pristine shape - like new, and performs better than any of the junk made today.
It's going on my Craigs List ad tonight.
Installed a new cartridge carrier that came in the mail today, and a Stanton cartridge.
I even have the stacker spindle included with it.
The thing's in pristine shape - like new, and performs better than any of the junk made today.
It's going on my Craigs List ad tonight.
This weekend I fixed another Technics SL-1210 MK2. It showed up on my local Craigs List as a defective Unit. Seller said that pitch and target light where not working properly. It also proofed to have a problem with its tonearm. After a complete disassembly I found that one of the bearings had been mounted wrong before, that's why it was stuck. Surprisingly it turned out to be an easy fix. Some bending with a dentist pick removed the dent in the bearing cover enough to allow the bearing to move freely. It still looks ugly, but after a thorough clean of all bearings and parts the tonearm was adjusted easy. Beeing a mechanic working with adjustable bearings helped a lot.
I also disassembled the pitch fader to clean it and removed a lot of ugly debris. After the clean up the pitch adjust works like a charm. The needle target lamp mechanism also had to be cleaned and I removed the defective bulb and soldered a warm-white LED. I cleaned up every single part of the turntable. The chassis parts got scrubbed with soap and rinsed three times before they were clean. The original paint was so damaged that I tried to apply a wrap foil. That did not work too good, I have a lot of bubbles and the edges and corners look quite ugly. But it still looks better then before. The platter looks dull and shows substantial corrosion. It still has to be polished.
I assembled everything to check if it works. The first checks went great, now the music is playing 🎵
So much more ideas what to do with this device:
I also disassembled the pitch fader to clean it and removed a lot of ugly debris. After the clean up the pitch adjust works like a charm. The needle target lamp mechanism also had to be cleaned and I removed the defective bulb and soldered a warm-white LED. I cleaned up every single part of the turntable. The chassis parts got scrubbed with soap and rinsed three times before they were clean. The original paint was so damaged that I tried to apply a wrap foil. That did not work too good, I have a lot of bubbles and the edges and corners look quite ugly. But it still looks better then before. The platter looks dull and shows substantial corrosion. It still has to be polished.
I assembled everything to check if it works. The first checks went great, now the music is playing 🎵
So much more ideas what to do with this device:
- damp the tonearm tube with KABs "special" rubber tube
- move the AC Power supply to an external enclosure to get rid of mechanical vibrations caused by the transformer
- replace the feet with something better (1200 GR feet or Isonoe)
- perform all the electronic checks and tests suggested in the service manual
Attachments
I've got a 1200 Mk3 sitting for years on the shelf - abandoned.
The tonearm's bent/damaged, and the bearings seem damaged too.
Otherwise the platter spins fine, but need a new target lamp (or LED).
One day, when I'm really bored and have the extra cash, I'll straighten it out.
Had that same issue crop up awhile back after moving some stuff around on the shelves. Those cheap interconnects from Monoprice or wherever turned out to be a little too cheap. Sacrificed one for a forensic exam; had the shielding equivalent of a bad comb-over, I'd estimate 30% being generous.
I've been putting off making my own with proper stuff. They're only a foot long, but I need 2 dozen of the damn things! Finally got sick of all the intermittent buzzing, put on a pot of coffee, and got it done. Nice Belden cable, Switchcraft 3502A plugs. Quiet as a dead church mouse.
I've been putting off making my own with proper stuff. They're only a foot long, but I need 2 dozen of the damn things! Finally got sick of all the intermittent buzzing, put on a pot of coffee, and got it done. Nice Belden cable, Switchcraft 3502A plugs. Quiet as a dead church mouse.
Nice.
The one I have here was likely about 3$. The "shield" is the negative conductor with the insulated signal line in the centre of it. No braid, no foil but frankly, if you saw the routing, you'd be shocked it was as quiet as it is Two monoblocs, and 4 stereo amplifiers mostly daisy chained together. The back of the rack is a rat's nest, too. That's what happens when you want all your gear connected at once and switchable/usable at any time I guess.
The one I have here was likely about 3$. The "shield" is the negative conductor with the insulated signal line in the centre of it. No braid, no foil but frankly, if you saw the routing, you'd be shocked it was as quiet as it is
Two monoblocs, and 4 stereo amplifiers mostly daisy chained together. The back of the rack is a rat's nest, too. That's what happens when you want all your gear connected at once and switchable/usable at any time I guess.
A knife.
A piece of junk because of a blade that extends very little inside the plastic handle.
Fitted with glue.
Of course the blade came off loose.
So.
I drilled through the handle and blade extension and tight fitted a pin.
Know, it is a decent knife, fixed as it should have been designed.
A piece of junk because of a blade that extends very little inside the plastic handle.
Fitted with glue.
Of course the blade came off loose.
So.
I drilled through the handle and blade extension and tight fitted a pin.
Know, it is a decent knife, fixed as it should have been designed.
I keep some old kitchen knives around the shop and sharpen the blades.
Great for cutting/trimming stuff like styrofoam and foam rubber stuff.
SACRILEGE!...
My 1960's Hamilton Beach carving knife is only used for the Holiday Turkey, roasts, or Hams!
Not good but I have one better. I fixed a computer for this friend of mine and
took it to his home. When we hooked it back up we used one wall outlet for
the computer and a diferent outlet for the monitor. Then we found out the hard
way that his brother in law who had helped rewire the house had swaped the hot
and nutral on one of the outlets.
took it to his home. When we hooked it back up we used one wall outlet for
the computer and a diferent outlet for the monitor. Then we found out the hard
way that his brother in law who had helped rewire the house had swaped the hot
and nutral on one of the outlets.
Perhaps 10 years ago I bougth a bunch ot stuff at a yard sale like a bunch of
power transformers, 4 variacs and a vintage adjustable power supply all for $5.
So I figure the lab power supply with adjustiable outputs of 115 ac, 0-60 VDC
and 0-250 VDC probably acounted for about $1 of this cost. Well a couple of
years ago it blew up and I never got around to looking at it. So tonight I decided
to finaly look at it expecting it to be hard to diagnose and who and behold I
instantly saw the 120uf 300V cap was bulgeing. Don't you just hate it when a
diagnosis you have put off because you thought it was going to be hard ends
up taking 10 seconds ?
power transformers, 4 variacs and a vintage adjustable power supply all for $5.
So I figure the lab power supply with adjustiable outputs of 115 ac, 0-60 VDC
and 0-250 VDC probably acounted for about $1 of this cost. Well a couple of
years ago it blew up and I never got around to looking at it. So tonight I decided
to finaly look at it expecting it to be hard to diagnose and who and behold I
instantly saw the 120uf 300V cap was bulgeing. Don't you just hate it when a
diagnosis you have put off because you thought it was going to be hard ends
up taking 10 seconds ?
I tried to program a PIC micro using a PICKIT 3 programmer.
I kept getting an error code.
I then spotted I was trying to program PIC with wrong project.
I had used a project with VCC=5v when PIC was expecting 3v3.
So loaded in correct project and PIC still wouldnt program.
Had a look at pcb with PIC on it and power supply was bombing up and down as if power supply was over currenting.
So removed PIC and everything was fine.
Looks like trying to program PIC with 5 volt project blew it up.
So £5 PIC down the pan.
I kept getting an error code.
I then spotted I was trying to program PIC with wrong project.
I had used a project with VCC=5v when PIC was expecting 3v3.
So loaded in correct project and PIC still wouldnt program.
Had a look at pcb with PIC on it and power supply was bombing up and down as if power supply was over currenting.
So removed PIC and everything was fine.
Looks like trying to program PIC with 5 volt project blew it up.
So £5 PIC down the pan.