What did you last repair?

Mains lead on a 'big acoustic Yamaha'?

I thought it was a standard old style piano, with no electronics, or a pick up, if at all.

My sister has one in Hyderabad, and the few piano tuners left have gone aged, some passed away.
So she has a problem servicing it.
Hardly plays it now, it is now just a decorative upright piano on display.
 
A very old, very battered Kurzweil K2000 v1.0, a rarity. This is a magnificent DSP-synth, extremely versatile, still holds its own 30 years after launch.


Common issue: LCD Backlight is dead. Other issues:
  • someone left a batter inside the compartment, and it leaked, corroding the terminals
  • bulging caps in PSU area
  • broken key, easily replaced
  • dust and grime - cleaned up
  • stuck screw not enabling opening it up easily - caused HDD damage, so replaced HDD with a floppy emulator that takes USB

There may be a chip replacement to be done as there is noise if using the internal Digitech Effects. Direct outs are fine.

There may be additional chip replacements to upgrade the firmware: O.S. + Objects.
Ray Kurzweil is a pretty interesting guy by any stretch. Some people seem to fit three lifetimes worth stuff into one.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ray_Kurzweil

TCD
 
Had to repair the Frigidaire refrigerator again, this time it was the compressor start cap, put in a 12uF instead of a stock replacement 15uF because that was in the Amazon repair kit. Man this fridge, on its 3rd set of water solenoids, replaced main PS filter cap on micro board, now start cap. I think most people would have lost patience and turfed it long ago.
Had to fix the Santa blowup. The proper replacement fan is almost as much as what the blowup cost, so I cut off the mounting flange off the broken fan and epoxied it to a generic PC blower fan. Sub $10 repair.
 
I haven't repaired it yet, but knowing what people pay for these, I couldn't leave it in the garbage.

BUT!

If you throw out electronics you don't want, there's no need to be a douche and cut the wires. These people have a special place in my heart (and Hell, actually). Seriously, I would never do this.
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I've seen scrappers cut cords off electronic garbage and leave the rest for the trash man. A quick and easy piece of copper wire.
I the days of CRT TVs, they would bust a hole in the back of the cabinet with a hammer just to remove the deflection yoke for the copper.
If you wanted anything you needed to get it before the vultures came along.
Those days are over as there's no more roadside collection for E-waste, at least in this part of NJ.
 
I've seen scrappers cut cords off electronic garbage and leave the rest for the trash man. A quick and easy piece of copper wire.
Yep, that's what they do. I saw a scrapper on YT just hammering and blasting a large number of transformers. Of course, he's nearly only after the copper itself.

Seeing how transformers are super useful and can be super expensive to order and ship - not only for audio but for other domains - there could be fruitful collaborations with them, but for that we'd need to convince not to hurry and smash all of the transformers they collected or collect them at the source before they do!
 
Had a customer email me with a problem with his model railway digital controller.
He said the sound functions dont work on his loco.
So checked on my loco and he was right.
So spent a few hours going through DCC control codes to see if I had done them correctly.
It all looked good to me.
Function 0 (lights on/off) worked fine so my basic code must have been right.
So dug out loco decoder spec.
It said that it doesnt output sound if it detects DC on the bus.
On power up my controller turns bus on but does nothing with it until USB bus is also initialised which takes a little while.
So changed software to hold bus off until USB is setup.
That fixed it.

Oddly been selling this controller for over a year and no one else has complained.
I suspect its only the Hornby decoder that does this.
 
I fixed the popping/crackling noises and unbalanced sound from my heavily modded ST-70 by replacing the tube sockets on the driver board, all 4 on this particular board. A few mishaps along the way with traces lifting but it is working now, is dead silent, and is balanced. Even the hum has disappeared and I didn't anything specifically to reduce it. My wife even comments she can't tell when it is on and no music is playing.

Is DCC still being used? I had an early version of it on the layout I set up for my kids over 20 years ago. It worked but getting the boards into the locos was a real PITA since they weren't made for it. It stopped being used once the kids lost interest. I still had the cars and locos from when I was a kid too, but most of what was run was relatively new, but 20+ years old now.
 
Is DCC still being used? I had an early version of it on the layout I set up for my kids over 20 years ago. It worked but getting the boards into the locos was a real PITA since they weren't made for it. It stopped being used once the kids lost interest. I still had the cars and locos from when I was a kid too, but most of what was run was relatively new, but 20+ years old now.
It is still very popular or at least it is here in the UK.
I decided to design a DCC controller and had to look up the spec for it.
I have never seen anything so badly written with bits missing in one spec and extra stuff in another spec.
I eventually cracked it.
The DCC stuff can be expensive with trains with sound and controllers being in the hundreds of pounds.
I designed a very cheap one with just a pcb, keypad and lcd display for about £50.
Sold quite a few.