I asked our electric company line man, he says the primary 11 kV is a delta connection winding, and the secondary 415V is a star winding, and the secondary neutral is grounded at the pole / mounting plinth.
Phases are 220 V L to N each.
Alternately, this seems to be better for asymmetric loads, from a net search, no ties to anybody...
Zig Zag connection:
https://www.researchgate.net/deref/http://electrical-engineering-portal.com/zigzag-transformer-connection-overview
Our trunk lines are 765 or 800 kV DC, or 400 kV AC.
Sub stations are supplied at 220 kV, and large customers can get 132 / 66 kV connections. 33 kV is legacy, so is 6.6 kV.
11 kV is the 'last mile' distribution voltage, and depending on load, transformers are placed for 'low tension' customers at appropriate distance from the load.
'High tension' describes voltages above 1.1 kV.
Phases are 220 V L to N each.
Alternately, this seems to be better for asymmetric loads, from a net search, no ties to anybody...
Zig Zag connection:
https://www.researchgate.net/deref/http://electrical-engineering-portal.com/zigzag-transformer-connection-overview
Our trunk lines are 765 or 800 kV DC, or 400 kV AC.
Sub stations are supplied at 220 kV, and large customers can get 132 / 66 kV connections. 33 kV is legacy, so is 6.6 kV.
11 kV is the 'last mile' distribution voltage, and depending on load, transformers are placed for 'low tension' customers at appropriate distance from the load.
'High tension' describes voltages above 1.1 kV.
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The question is.... did the power company REPLACE the pole grounding wire, and then put a theft-protection shield or metal conduit around it?
Were they notified of it so they could do the repair?
Because if not, then your house, and perhaps others are the primary ground for the whole system, not a good thing to have.
It may have eliminated RF issues, but your own home is now the primary transformer ground.
That is not acceptable for code.
Since you guys are working on writing, here's photos of the truck wiring I'm working on... before, during, after.
So much engine 🙂 Nice work.
My first car was a 77 Impala with a 400 (6.6L) SB in it. My current car has 3.0L inline 6 and it's just better IMHO.
My first car was a 77 Impala with a 400 (6.6L) SB in it. My current car has 3.0L inline 6 and it's just better IMHO.
It's my tribute to electric cars. I'll buy one when they have a range of at least 400 miles, batteries can be fully charged in a few minutes, AND they cost $30k or less. I'll be waiting awhile. Right now, there aren't any EVs made that are "greener" than gasoline vehicles. Mining the lithium and rare earth metals isn't green. Disposing of the batteries isn't greener. Places like LA are having roving blackouts because the power grid can't handle the energy required for the record heat and number of people running electrical appliances. What will happen if more people are charging their EVs. Good luck.
In the meantime, this 1995 Chevy LT-1, 5.7L engine will be fed by a 22 gallon gasoline tank will most likely last me the rest of my life, and I can drive 800-900 miles in 12 hours without having to plan my route around charging stations and having to wait for a recharge.
In the meantime, this 1995 Chevy LT-1, 5.7L engine will be fed by a 22 gallon gasoline tank will most likely last me the rest of my life, and I can drive 800-900 miles in 12 hours without having to plan my route around charging stations and having to wait for a recharge.
Looking at the engine/transmission assembly in Duke58's first photo and wondering what happened to all the pretty colored wires that were missing from engines I worked on 45+ years ago. Is this Progress?
In the 1967 Cougar, they were in the trunk.
I have (somewhere) a picture of me with a slide-viewer (adapted to microfiche) completely entangled in my Cougar's tail wire harness. Nothing like the 3 wires on my 1961 Willys.
My first car, a 1972 Nova, was so simple, yet so reliable.
Hardly any of that messy troublesome emissions crap on it.
I miss that damn car.
A DCC model railway controller.
The loco would move slightly then overload message would come up.
Tracked it down to partially soldered joint.
There are 2 resistors in parallel to detect shorts and one had bad soldered joint and so current trip point was half normal current.
The loco would move slightly then overload message would come up.
Tracked it down to partially soldered joint.
There are 2 resistors in parallel to detect shorts and one had bad soldered joint and so current trip point was half normal current.
They replaced the grounding wire though they did not add a shield.
There is another pole adjoining my property that at least had a ground wire.
I try to keep that pole inaccessible to avoid ground loss.
At least now my home is well grounded. I did surround the ground wire from the panel to the stake with half inch conduit just for fun. The second ground is required to be where the water pipe enters the house. Im my case the water pipe is 3/4 inch copper run about 50 feet to the street.
See if you can put a tree guard, they are made of wire mesh mostly, used to protect saplings when planted.
Now they use 4" PVC pipe, with slots on the sides....
Or something to deter damage / theft.
Now they use 4" PVC pipe, with slots on the sides....
Or something to deter damage / theft.
We've here In Philly have had the same problems - copper thieves chopping transformer ground wires from the poles.
Same goes for un-occupied/vacant homes - they steal the wiring, even copper plumbing!
PECO Electric has been putting a half-round shield of PVC with flanges and screwed to the pole to deter theft.
Here they illegally connected the shield to the return path of street lights.
Thieves got a jolt.
Somebody died, so it was stopped.
Aluminum is used here, not as expensive as Copper.
Griunding plate is cast iron alloy, wire to it is galvanised iron.
Not so lucrative for thieves.
Thieves got a jolt.
Somebody died, so it was stopped.
Aluminum is used here, not as expensive as Copper.
Griunding plate is cast iron alloy, wire to it is galvanised iron.
Not so lucrative for thieves.
Grounding by water pipes is becoming hazardous.
Plumbing with PVC is becoming more used including at incoming water.
Instead of soldering copper, tubes are cringed. This can hold 10 bar pressure.
An interesting way that makes plumbing accessible to not so skilled people.
Plumbing with PVC is becoming more used including at incoming water.
Instead of soldering copper, tubes are cringed. This can hold 10 bar pressure.
An interesting way that makes plumbing accessible to not so skilled people.
Legionella just loves crimped tubes despite being “less chance for legionella” being one of the selling points.
Been there done that, went back to hard soldered copper piping and brass manual crimped couplers. Legionella values back to nil.
Fast & Cheap are always winners 🙂
Been there done that, went back to hard soldered copper piping and brass manual crimped couplers. Legionella values back to nil.
Fast & Cheap are always winners 🙂
Around here it isn’t so much PVC - they use PEX. Still plastic. I wasn’t a fan of it either until 2 winters ago when it went down to the single digits and the copper plumbing was NEVER intended with that in mind. Busted pipes all over the place. I got off easy compared to my neighbors but still had my work cut out for me. With the usual 20 degrees it was never a problem. Now that the weather cycles are expected to get crazier and crazier it’s all going to be PEX from here out.
A neighbour brought me an electrically powered incubator which failed when the mains supply, 230V 50Hz, suddenly rose to 398V. This was caused when a power line touched the neutral line, and the latter, broke for some reason. The result was some households experienced this abnormal voltage surge which destroyed appliances and electronics.
Knowing the above, I told my neighbour that repairs like this are almost impossible if the power supply is a modern SMPS with power factor correction.
Now, the incubator is in my garage: should I even take the time to dismantle it? Or is it all wasted time and effort?
Knowing the above, I told my neighbour that repairs like this are almost impossible if the power supply is a modern SMPS with power factor correction.
Now, the incubator is in my garage: should I even take the time to dismantle it? Or is it all wasted time and effort?
My home is all copper plumbing, and cast iron sewage drain pipes.
The house is 82 years old now, and in good shape still..... just some minor issues due to aging.
I've never had cold weather busting water pipes, however I do take precautions against that happening.
Like draining the outside faucets and leaving them slightly open, shutting off their inside valves too.
Insulation also helps.
The house is 82 years old now, and in good shape still..... just some minor issues due to aging.
I've never had cold weather busting water pipes, however I do take precautions against that happening.
Like draining the outside faucets and leaving them slightly open, shutting off their inside valves too.
Insulation also helps.