Galu,
Thanks for that and I may well do that although first I think I will try the "Used" base cones and see if there is any difference - purely for interest, then the 3.3uf capacitor.
At the moment I am fitting all my hi-fi equipment onto a new stand.
I made a new high-level stand for my equipment (getting down low to look at things simply hurts too much) and it looked good. I made it of real teak but then had such a problem I have had to bin it.
Teak, when new smells dreadful, as it leaches a form of thin greasy fluid for a long time which really stinks - so bad it filled the whole room with the smell and made it almost impossible to live in. I now believe that teak needs to stand for about 2 years in fresh air before it is used.
Anyway I have had to bin the thing and go back to a double height glass and metal stand which arrived yesterday and I am building today (two stands fitted one on top of the other to give height). Blasted nuisance as I liked what I had made but simply couldn't live with it.
Ho hum! These things are meant to try us and they certainly do!
I will order the capacitors later today when I have a minute!
Regards,
Geoff.
Thanks for that and I may well do that although first I think I will try the "Used" base cones and see if there is any difference - purely for interest, then the 3.3uf capacitor.
At the moment I am fitting all my hi-fi equipment onto a new stand.
I made a new high-level stand for my equipment (getting down low to look at things simply hurts too much) and it looked good. I made it of real teak but then had such a problem I have had to bin it.
Teak, when new smells dreadful, as it leaches a form of thin greasy fluid for a long time which really stinks - so bad it filled the whole room with the smell and made it almost impossible to live in. I now believe that teak needs to stand for about 2 years in fresh air before it is used.
Anyway I have had to bin the thing and go back to a double height glass and metal stand which arrived yesterday and I am building today (two stands fitted one on top of the other to give height). Blasted nuisance as I liked what I had made but simply couldn't live with it.
Ho hum! These things are meant to try us and they certainly do!
I will order the capacitors later today when I have a minute!
Regards,
Geoff.
Totally agree with you - cannot get up without turning onto my front first!
What a state but it comes to us all!
Anyway - now fitted the 3.3uf to the 22uf capacitors but at the moment the jury is out as to which base I prefer - with or without the 3.3uf. Might fit a switch to turn it on or off!
Also now fitted the treble controls and must admit they are very useful, calming the treble down so that, although it is still there, it is not over powerful or hurts my ears.
Drilled a hole through the cabinet back for the spindle and able to control the treble using the fitted rotary knob.
At present set at minimum and am happy with the sound - adjustable if I wish (eg get different hearing aids or have new moulds fitted - visit to audio dept at local hospital on Tuesday as the present moulds are not a lot of good!) Excellent idea - thank you.
Geoff.
What a state but it comes to us all!
Anyway - now fitted the 3.3uf to the 22uf capacitors but at the moment the jury is out as to which base I prefer - with or without the 3.3uf. Might fit a switch to turn it on or off!
Also now fitted the treble controls and must admit they are very useful, calming the treble down so that, although it is still there, it is not over powerful or hurts my ears.
Drilled a hole through the cabinet back for the spindle and able to control the treble using the fitted rotary knob.
At present set at minimum and am happy with the sound - adjustable if I wish (eg get different hearing aids or have new moulds fitted - visit to audio dept at local hospital on Tuesday as the present moulds are not a lot of good!) Excellent idea - thank you.
Geoff.
Now I have had the chance to listen a bit longer (1000 Smooth Hits on internet radio and also to a 1001 CD store player) I am happier with the sound overall.
Treble turned up to about a quarter from fully down. Base on the amp at centre and treble the same. Bass good, mid reasonable and treble adjustable - happier.
All seems pretty good - for now!
One question to you knowledgeable people - is the mid-range speaker on the Glendale 3XP the same unit as the mid-range on the Glendale XP2 ?
Happy listening.
Geoff.
Treble turned up to about a quarter from fully down. Base on the amp at centre and treble the same. Bass good, mid reasonable and treble adjustable - happier.
All seems pretty good - for now!
One question to you knowledgeable people - is the mid-range speaker on the Glendale 3XP the same unit as the mid-range on the Glendale XP2 ?
Happy listening.
Geoff.
I'm glad you are adapting to the new sound balance, Geoff, and finding the L pad control helpful in accommodating your particular hearing requirements.
The old caps were likely responsible for a less detailed, smoothed out sound to which you had become accustomed.
The midrange drivers are the same in the two Glendale models.
Happy listening to you!
The old caps were likely responsible for a less detailed, smoothed out sound to which you had become accustomed.
The midrange drivers are the same in the two Glendale models.
Happy listening to you!
Galu,
Many thanks for your help - just got to sell a pair of Glendale XP2s now - unwanted!
DIY Audio is very useful.
Regards,
Geoff.
Many thanks for your help - just got to sell a pair of Glendale XP2s now - unwanted!
DIY Audio is very useful.
Regards,
Geoff.
These ones are custom made from wood. Choose your own squadron or individual aircraft. How does £150 plus postage sound?
Nice Airplanes Limited Desktop Models - Avro Shackleton
Galu,
Thank you for the Shackleton information but 21 inches is simply too large and the price, although about right for a wooden model is more that I wish to pay unfortunately.
It may well be a plastic model at the end of the day, when I get round to it but it has to be 205 Sqn.
Been to audiology - new ear moulds to be made and I wouldn't mind betting that will change my hearing again. I know it shouldn't but! Takes about 2 to 4 weeks for the new moulds so I will have to wait until mid October. Interestingly I had a chance to view my hearing plots today on screen and the low base hearing frequency is fine then it drops, initially slowly in the lower mid-range then speeds up bit with a sudden serious drop near the high frequencies before returning to near normal right at the top frequency - cause of the fierce drop - high sound from jet engines, unknown until the USA did some trials in the 1970s I have been told. That is probably why tweeters hurt - my hearing highest frequencies are ok, it is just below that where the problems start. Trying to compensate for the general loss in middle and high frequencies increases the very high frequencies as well and is what makes them uncomfortable.
I don't like getting old!!!!
All the best,
Geoff.
Thank you for the Shackleton information but 21 inches is simply too large and the price, although about right for a wooden model is more that I wish to pay unfortunately.
It may well be a plastic model at the end of the day, when I get round to it but it has to be 205 Sqn.
Been to audiology - new ear moulds to be made and I wouldn't mind betting that will change my hearing again. I know it shouldn't but! Takes about 2 to 4 weeks for the new moulds so I will have to wait until mid October. Interestingly I had a chance to view my hearing plots today on screen and the low base hearing frequency is fine then it drops, initially slowly in the lower mid-range then speeds up bit with a sudden serious drop near the high frequencies before returning to near normal right at the top frequency - cause of the fierce drop - high sound from jet engines, unknown until the USA did some trials in the 1970s I have been told. That is probably why tweeters hurt - my hearing highest frequencies are ok, it is just below that where the problems start. Trying to compensate for the general loss in middle and high frequencies increases the very high frequencies as well and is what makes them uncomfortable.
I don't like getting old!!!!
All the best,
Geoff.
My 1960s valve amp has an old fashioned "scratch" filter intended to filter off annoying high frequency radio hiss or 78 rpm record crackle.
It sounds like you need a filter which would remove those troublesome higher frequencies while leaving the lower ones intact.
Can modern hearing aids include such a filter?
Maybe you could start a new thread on how to add such a filter to your sound system. I'm sure there are other members out there who have overcome hearing frequency loss like yours.
P.S. I was at the audiologist a few weeks ago. I asked for a printout of my hearing curve only to be told the printer wasn't working! I have written down a description of my hearing curve as I remember it - a bit of a roller coaster!
It sounds like you need a filter which would remove those troublesome higher frequencies while leaving the lower ones intact.
Can modern hearing aids include such a filter?
Maybe you could start a new thread on how to add such a filter to your sound system. I'm sure there are other members out there who have overcome hearing frequency loss like yours.
P.S. I was at the audiologist a few weeks ago. I asked for a printout of my hearing curve only to be told the printer wasn't working! I have written down a description of my hearing curve as I remember it - a bit of a roller coaster!
Galu,
Hi - scratch filter - sounds as if it is exactly what is needed - perhaps an adjustable one. Would probably make that shrill thinness partly disappear.
My hearing aids (NHS (National Health Service) type) have four settings - normal (sort of surround microphones), music setting (seems to enhance mid tones and perhaps a little base), phone setting (for use with certain phones) and directional (forward microphone to help listen to an individual in a group). Unfortunately there is not much difference between any of them except the phone setting (also useful in such places as banks, some shops, cinemas etc) but otherwise dead. I do switch to the music setting when listening to music but tend to find voice disappears into the music and is never forward. The directional voice setting tends to brighten voices by increasing the high frequencies but it can become too bright certainly with women's voices and not much good with music as the base and mid-tones disappear Normal setting is generally best for most things but can give a bit of feedback in closed spaces (eg in the car).
As far as I know there are no NHS hearing aids that also come with a scratch filter or even expensive private ones. I know two friends who have private hearing aids (cost £8000 and £3000) and they say there is not much difference between their expensive ones and the NHS type - and they have to pay for the batteries whereas the HNS ones are free (well, not really - after all it is what I paid National Insurance for 42 years for!)
Another thread - may well try that - good idea thanks for the thought.
Regards,
Geoff.
Hi - scratch filter - sounds as if it is exactly what is needed - perhaps an adjustable one. Would probably make that shrill thinness partly disappear.
My hearing aids (NHS (National Health Service) type) have four settings - normal (sort of surround microphones), music setting (seems to enhance mid tones and perhaps a little base), phone setting (for use with certain phones) and directional (forward microphone to help listen to an individual in a group). Unfortunately there is not much difference between any of them except the phone setting (also useful in such places as banks, some shops, cinemas etc) but otherwise dead. I do switch to the music setting when listening to music but tend to find voice disappears into the music and is never forward. The directional voice setting tends to brighten voices by increasing the high frequencies but it can become too bright certainly with women's voices and not much good with music as the base and mid-tones disappear Normal setting is generally best for most things but can give a bit of feedback in closed spaces (eg in the car).
As far as I know there are no NHS hearing aids that also come with a scratch filter or even expensive private ones. I know two friends who have private hearing aids (cost £8000 and £3000) and they say there is not much difference between their expensive ones and the NHS type - and they have to pay for the batteries whereas the HNS ones are free (well, not really - after all it is what I paid National Insurance for 42 years for!)
Another thread - may well try that - good idea thanks for the thought.
Regards,
Geoff.
Yes, "free at the point of delivery" they say, but the NHS is certainly not "free"!
However, I seem to be getting my general taxation and NICs back in pills alone, as there are no prescription charges in Scotland!
However, I seem to be getting my general taxation and NICs back in pills alone, as there are no prescription charges in Scotland!
We are both old enough, by a long way now, not to pay for tablets that we rattle with.
Must admit, generally our GPs are not too bad if you are prepared to wait an hour on the phone to get an appointment!
I think you have mentioned your amp but would you be good enough to let me know again what you use - interested.
Regards,
Geoff.
Must admit, generally our GPs are not too bad if you are prepared to wait an hour on the phone to get an appointment!
I think you have mentioned your amp but would you be good enough to let me know again what you use - interested.
Regards,
Geoff.
I can't fault my GP practice. The triage system works well, and I had no trouble seeing a doctor on the strength of my bona fide ear symptoms. However, the practice is currently under pressure as Scottish children returned to school one whole month ago, and you'll understand what that means in terms of the transmission of all kinds of bugs!
I bought my Rogers HG88 Mk III stereo integrated valve amplifier way back in 1969.
I refurbished it a few years back, and it's in regular use in my 'Man Cave'. It sounds as good as new through my Wharfedale RS12DD full range 12" drivers mounted in Dovedale sized enclosures.
It would cost a fair bit to replace it with a modern equivalent, given that the Rogers amp includes a valve MM phono stage.
Most importantly, its smooth, antique valve sound is easy on my ageing hearing!
I've attached some images - not of my own units.
P.S. I presume you don't have a graphic equaliser in your system. I wonder if one could be used to notch out the particular high frequencies that are incompatible with your hearing.
I bought my Rogers HG88 Mk III stereo integrated valve amplifier way back in 1969.
I refurbished it a few years back, and it's in regular use in my 'Man Cave'. It sounds as good as new through my Wharfedale RS12DD full range 12" drivers mounted in Dovedale sized enclosures.
It would cost a fair bit to replace it with a modern equivalent, given that the Rogers amp includes a valve MM phono stage.
Most importantly, its smooth, antique valve sound is easy on my ageing hearing!
I've attached some images - not of my own units.
P.S. I presume you don't have a graphic equaliser in your system. I wonder if one could be used to notch out the particular high frequencies that are incompatible with your hearing.
Attachments
Galu,
I assume I could put the same L Pads on the mid-range drivers - give me a good range of control throughout except for the base which is just fine?
When I had my Icon Audio 60 Mk3 I did like it even though, to me, regardless of speakers it sounded bright, but that seems to be the modern sound.
I like your Rogers valve amp - shall keep an eye out - just in case! Rogers certainly had a very good name at the time.
Graphic equaliser - ah, yes! Sold mine about a year ago as I felt it was too difficult to play around with. Sold to a collector but might think again - get a better one this time with more control - plenty about.
Lived in Germany in the 1960s with the RAF and bought a beautiful Grundig? wooden stereo radiogram (nice piece of furniture) - what a lovely sound - deep, smooth and easy to listen to. Brought it back to the UK in a Fiat 850 Sport Coupe sports car 2+2 with it just fitting in from the front seat to the back - my poor wife had to sit on her own legs in the tiny rear seat for the 5 hour drive to the ferry and then the 2 hour drive in the UK. Quite how we got it in the car I cannot imagine but we did - and a cage with a hamster in it plus luggage, uniform etc.
So, deep, smooth, easy listening is what I am after - think I am getting there - he says!
You know - they type you can fall to sleep listening to.
Regards,
Geoff.
I assume I could put the same L Pads on the mid-range drivers - give me a good range of control throughout except for the base which is just fine?
When I had my Icon Audio 60 Mk3 I did like it even though, to me, regardless of speakers it sounded bright, but that seems to be the modern sound.
I like your Rogers valve amp - shall keep an eye out - just in case! Rogers certainly had a very good name at the time.
Graphic equaliser - ah, yes! Sold mine about a year ago as I felt it was too difficult to play around with. Sold to a collector but might think again - get a better one this time with more control - plenty about.
Lived in Germany in the 1960s with the RAF and bought a beautiful Grundig? wooden stereo radiogram (nice piece of furniture) - what a lovely sound - deep, smooth and easy to listen to. Brought it back to the UK in a Fiat 850 Sport Coupe sports car 2+2 with it just fitting in from the front seat to the back - my poor wife had to sit on her own legs in the tiny rear seat for the 5 hour drive to the ferry and then the 2 hour drive in the UK. Quite how we got it in the car I cannot imagine but we did - and a cage with a hamster in it plus luggage, uniform etc.
So, deep, smooth, easy listening is what I am after - think I am getting there - he says!
You know - they type you can fall to sleep listening to.
Regards,
Geoff.
At least you and the hamster were comfortable! 😀
A greater percentage of the total amplifier power goes to the midrange than the tweeter. However, provided you don't listen too loud, the 15W L pad should do.
If you do play loud and are likely to attenuate the midrange substantially, then it might be better to go for a higher rated L pad:
8 Ohm L-Pad Attenuator - 50 Watts - Willys-Hifi Ltd
A greater percentage of the total amplifier power goes to the midrange than the tweeter. However, provided you don't listen too loud, the 15W L pad should do.
If you do play loud and are likely to attenuate the midrange substantially, then it might be better to go for a higher rated L pad:
8 Ohm L-Pad Attenuator - 50 Watts - Willys-Hifi Ltd
Hi,
Yes may well do that - never turn the volume up very much so the 15w would probably do.
Meanwhile looking for a Graphic Equaliser - must have at least 12 settings each channel and go above 16k - or at least to 16k.
Seen a few - on E Bay and may bid on one - have to see.
An L Pad and a GE would cover just about everything.
Thanks for the advice again.
Geoff.
Yes may well do that - never turn the volume up very much so the 15w would probably do.
Meanwhile looking for a Graphic Equaliser - must have at least 12 settings each channel and go above 16k - or at least to 16k.
Seen a few - on E Bay and may bid on one - have to see.
An L Pad and a GE would cover just about everything.
Thanks for the advice again.
Geoff.
Hi,
Not a question about the Glendale 3XP this time but can someone answer as to whether the Shelton XP2 tweeter is the same as a Glendale XP2 tweeter as I am after a Glendale XP2 tweeter.
Further - if, as I have done, replacing the capacitors on the Glendale 3XP and the Glendale XP2 crossovers with new ones they may well find the wires on the new capacitor are thicker than the ones presently fitted - which means drilling out the holes on the crossover first - just to let you know of the minor problem you may encounter.
Geoff
Not a question about the Glendale 3XP this time but can someone answer as to whether the Shelton XP2 tweeter is the same as a Glendale XP2 tweeter as I am after a Glendale XP2 tweeter.
Further - if, as I have done, replacing the capacitors on the Glendale 3XP and the Glendale XP2 crossovers with new ones they may well find the wires on the new capacitor are thicker than the ones presently fitted - which means drilling out the holes on the crossover first - just to let you know of the minor problem you may encounter.
Geoff