Hi - agin,
Just had a look and understand but would need a switch box to by-pass the GE, however I may well try and see what happens - but I would still need to fit a by-pass to miss the GE with one in to the switch box but two lines out with both having to go back to the amp one using the GE and one not using the Ge, unless I can find some other way round it - or leave it as it is as it does work ok.
I'm going to have a drink!!!!
Geoff.
Just had a look and understand but would need a switch box to by-pass the GE, however I may well try and see what happens - but I would still need to fit a by-pass to miss the GE with one in to the switch box but two lines out with both having to go back to the amp one using the GE and one not using the Ge, unless I can find some other way round it - or leave it as it is as it does work ok.
I'm going to have a drink!!!!
Geoff.
Get back to me when you are suitably refreshed Geoff!
That seems to be a rather complicated wiring arrangement you are using. I now need a drink after trying to unravel your description! 😉
So, you do appear to be saying that your amp has separable preamp and power amp sections that are currently linked by jumpers - correct?
That seems to be a rather complicated wiring arrangement you are using. I now need a drink after trying to unravel your description! 😉
So, you do appear to be saying that your amp has separable preamp and power amp sections that are currently linked by jumpers - correct?
Ah! The Sauvignon Blanc is working its magic again! 
Re tape monitor: When a graphic equaliser is situated in the tape loop of a preamplifier, then you can simply switch the preamp between tape (eq on) and source (eq off).
That, of course, depends on the switching facilities of the amplifier you are currently using.
Would you remind us of the make and model? No rush, I'm just interested in the topic. 😎
Re tape monitor: When a graphic equaliser is situated in the tape loop of a preamplifier, then you can simply switch the preamp between tape (eq on) and source (eq off).
That, of course, depends on the switching facilities of the amplifier you are currently using.
Would you remind us of the make and model? No rush, I'm just interested in the topic. 😎
Hi,
No, the amp is integrated there is no separate pre and power amp connected by a jumper, its is simply one complete amp.
It is an old Teac A-H500i amp.
Connections on the back are: Phono (MM) - Tuner - Aux - CD - Tape 1 play - Tape 1 record - Tape 2 play - Tape 2 record and of course L & R speaker connections plus a ground point for the turntable.
I have two of these (one as a spare) as I have always liked the Teac sound - however I might be considering going back to a valve amp if I can find one within my price range - but then again?
Controls on the front are:
Power (push button) -
Volume (rotary control ) -
Bass (rotary) -
Treble (rotary) -
Balance (rotary) -
CD direct (push button) -
Headphone connection (jack) -
Record Selector (rotary) with selections for for MD/tape 2>1, Tape 1>2/MD, Off, Source. (Source being that selected using the input selector below).
Input selector(rotary) for MD/Tape 2, Tape 1, CD, Tuner, Phono, Aux.
Think I need another drink!!! or ten.
Regards,
Geoff.
No, the amp is integrated there is no separate pre and power amp connected by a jumper, its is simply one complete amp.
It is an old Teac A-H500i amp.
Connections on the back are: Phono (MM) - Tuner - Aux - CD - Tape 1 play - Tape 1 record - Tape 2 play - Tape 2 record and of course L & R speaker connections plus a ground point for the turntable.
I have two of these (one as a spare) as I have always liked the Teac sound - however I might be considering going back to a valve amp if I can find one within my price range - but then again?
Controls on the front are:
Power (push button) -
Volume (rotary control ) -
Bass (rotary) -
Treble (rotary) -
Balance (rotary) -
CD direct (push button) -
Headphone connection (jack) -
Record Selector (rotary) with selections for for MD/tape 2>1, Tape 1>2/MD, Off, Source. (Source being that selected using the input selector below).
Input selector(rotary) for MD/Tape 2, Tape 1, CD, Tuner, Phono, Aux.
Think I need another drink!!! or ten.
Regards,
Geoff.
Nice amplifier!
Have you tried connecting the equaliser to the 'tape 1' sockets on the rear of the amp and fiddling with the rec and input selector switches?
At one time, amplifiers had a tape monitor switch which would allow an equaliser to work on all selected sources when connected in the tape loop.
There's no mention of connecting an equaliser to your amp in the manual.
Front Panel Controls And Their Functions - Teac A-H500 Owner's Manual [Page 6] | ManualsLib
Have you tried connecting the equaliser to the 'tape 1' sockets on the rear of the amp and fiddling with the rec and input selector switches?
At one time, amplifiers had a tape monitor switch which would allow an equaliser to work on all selected sources when connected in the tape loop.
There's no mention of connecting an equaliser to your amp in the manual.
Front Panel Controls And Their Functions - Teac A-H500 Owner's Manual [Page 6] | ManualsLib
Attachments
Hi,
I haven't yet but it is on the cards to try and see what happens - I will get back in a day or so - got a clock to repair first!
Thanks for your help again.
Geoff.
I haven't yet but it is on the cards to try and see what happens - I will get back in a day or so - got a clock to repair first!
Thanks for your help again.
Geoff.
hi everyone, I am newbie here and I am having my Glandale XP2 recently.
I find the woofer is not quite respondinv to signal arround 110 - 120 hz, sounds like it disappear, is that the character with the woofer or anyone having similar feeling with it?
I find the woofer is not quite respondinv to signal arround 110 - 120 hz, sounds like it disappear, is that the character with the woofer or anyone having similar feeling with it?
Welcome to the forum!
If you are inputting spot test frequencies then you might just have hit on a natural dip in the bass driver's frequency response that will not be particularly audible when playing music.
We would need a sound pressure level (SPL) versus frequency plot to ascertain how far below the average level, in dB, the dip is. We could then better judge its severity/audibilty.
P.S. Does this affect both woofers?
If you are inputting spot test frequencies then you might just have hit on a natural dip in the bass driver's frequency response that will not be particularly audible when playing music.
We would need a sound pressure level (SPL) versus frequency plot to ascertain how far below the average level, in dB, the dip is. We could then better judge its severity/audibilty.
P.S. Does this affect both woofers?
Hi everyone, I’m currently fixing up a pair of Linton 3XP’s that have blown tweeters.
Took a punt on a pair of Solavox PR30’s as speculated they may be direct replacements, and upon comparison the tweeters look identical - original top, Solavox bottom
