P.P.S. I have a pair of Denton 2 in my collection. Recently I replaced the ageing ELCAP electrolytic capacitors in the crossovers. I also experimented running the 8" bass driver unfiltered and just having a 4uF capacitor in series with the mid/tweeter. You know, [midrange[], against the perceived wisdom, I think they actually sound better that way! 
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Preaching to the converted. I usually try that with my cheap commercial "bargains".
I will try it out on the Solavoxes. What I did try was putting a smaller amount of wadding in the cabinet (and changed it to wool), and reducing by half the amount of wadding in the treble enclosure! This made a livelier sound which I actually prefer,
[/QUOTE]Preaching to the converted. I usually try that with my cheap commercial "bargains".
I will try it out on the Solavoxes. What I did try was putting a smaller amount of wadding in the cabinet (and changed it to wool), and reducing by half the amount of wadding in the treble enclosure! This made a livelier sound which I actually prefer,
Just to add, the boxes are very nice, and on my Solavoxes do not have the lip round the edge of the box. that the Dentons. Making nice looking speaker boxes look is hard with limited equipment and talent..
Interesting - thanks for that and I may well do so, however I do have a number of internal items from my Glendale XP2 to get rid of as well so they will have to go first but if these Solavox ones are in good condition I will have a try at selling them as well - becoming a bit of a shop here!
The tweeters are certainly not the same as the Denton 2XP but XP2 - thanks.
Geoff.
The tweeters are certainly not the same as the Denton 2XP but XP2 - thanks.
Geoff.
I used the foil capacitors I had at hand.
2 x 2.2 uF in parallel to give 4.4 uF went in one cabinet.
1 x 4.7 uF went in the other cabinet!
For those who might be interested the Solavox SP15 tweeter is different to the Glendale 3XP tweeter. The Solavox tweeter is open back allbeit within a short plastic sealed tube with padding inside whereas the Glendale tweeter is closed backed.
Whether the Solavox SP30 tweeter is exactly the same as the Glendale 3XP I don't at present, know.
Quite impressed with the Solavox SP25, quite a nice small speaker with a pleasant sound and not too harsh for us oldies with poor hearing.
Geoff.
Geoff.
Whether the Solavox SP30 tweeter is exactly the same as the Glendale 3XP I don't at present, know.
Quite impressed with the Solavox SP25, quite a nice small speaker with a pleasant sound and not too harsh for us oldies with poor hearing.
Geoff.
Geoff.
Solavox PR25 is the designation of the speakers you bought. We corrupted them to SP25!
So, to be clear, are the Solavox PR25 tweeters the same as the 3XP tweeters or not?
My head is beginning to swim with all these speaker identification letters/numbers!
So, to be clear, are the Solavox PR25 tweeters the same as the 3XP tweeters or not?
My head is beginning to swim with all these speaker identification letters/numbers!
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Hi Galu,
No they are not the same. The Solarvox PR25 tweeters are different to the Wharfedale Glendale 3XP tweeters
Like you all these very similar XP, PR, 3XP, XP2 get very confusing!
Regards,
Geoff.
No they are not the same. The Solarvox PR25 tweeters are different to the Wharfedale Glendale 3XP tweeters
Like you all these very similar XP, PR, 3XP, XP2 get very confusing!
Regards,
Geoff.
The PR25 tweeters (if these are the ones with the plastic cup) should work just fine in the 3XP system, if not the other way round.
The PR25 tweeters are prime candidates for experiment provided they are a perfect physical fit in the Glendale cabinets.
The PR25 tweeters are prime candidates for experiment provided they are a perfect physical fit in the Glendale cabinets.
If I recall correctly, Geoff, you are now working on a second pair of Glendale 3XP speakers, one of which has a broken or missing tweeter.
It may be worth clarifying the operating difference between the tweeters we are currently discussing.
The 3XP 'sealed back' unit is a tweeter which operates at a high crossover frequency. It must be used in conjunction with a separate midrange driver.
The PR25 'rear plastic enclosure' unit is a mid/tweeter which can operate at a lower crossover frquency. It does not need to be paired with a midrange driver.
Threfore, the PR25 mid/tweeter can work safely with the 3XP crossover, but the 3XP tweeter should not be used with the PR25 crossover.
I hope that helps you in your experiments.
It may be worth clarifying the operating difference between the tweeters we are currently discussing.
The 3XP 'sealed back' unit is a tweeter which operates at a high crossover frequency. It must be used in conjunction with a separate midrange driver.
The PR25 'rear plastic enclosure' unit is a mid/tweeter which can operate at a lower crossover frquency. It does not need to be paired with a midrange driver.
Threfore, the PR25 mid/tweeter can work safely with the 3XP crossover, but the 3XP tweeter should not be used with the PR25 crossover.
I hope that helps you in your experiments.
Now, having thought that all through, I see I was wrong in suggesting that the tweeter in the Denton 2XP/PR25 was the same as in the Glendale and Linton 3XP.
How stupid of me!
I apologise for putting you to any unnecessary expense Geoff, but hopefully all is not lost as explained above.
How stupid of me!
I apologise for putting you to any unnecessary expense Geoff, but hopefully all is not lost as explained above.
Galu,
Thanks for the information - I will try them and see what happens - however I rather like the Solavox speakers as a second set so may look for another set of the same to take to pieces or, rather, see if I can get a pair of RP30s as the tweeter looks very much like the Glendale 3XP ones, rather more than the PR25s do. Also the RP30s can take 40wpc but the PR25s are only for 35wpc - not that there is a lot of difference I know as i will never have them up loud.
Regards,
Geoff.
Thanks for the information - I will try them and see what happens - however I rather like the Solavox speakers as a second set so may look for another set of the same to take to pieces or, rather, see if I can get a pair of RP30s as the tweeter looks very much like the Glendale 3XP ones, rather more than the PR25s do. Also the RP30s can take 40wpc but the PR25s are only for 35wpc - not that there is a lot of difference I know as i will never have them up loud.
Regards,
Geoff.
Further to your last - no problem, the expensive was really fairly minor and is good experience anyway.
Also now wired in a Graphic Equaliser but have used a switch box to by-pass it if I want to.
There is a by-pass switch on the GE but using it seems to create a bit of a hollow sound so it is wires everywhere now for the tuner, the CD and the turntable direct to the tuner or via a switch box and GE. Keeps me busy!
Regards,
Geoff.
Also now wired in a Graphic Equaliser but have used a switch box to by-pass it if I want to.
There is a by-pass switch on the GE but using it seems to create a bit of a hollow sound so it is wires everywhere now for the tuner, the CD and the turntable direct to the tuner or via a switch box and GE. Keeps me busy!
Regards,
Geoff.
Geoff, you mean Solavox PR30. 🙂
Yes, the PR30 shown in the attachment is a three-way speaker that looks similar to the Glendale 3XP. However, it has a less refined midrange driver.
The tweeter is likely to be sealed back, but we can't be absolutely sure from just an external photograph.
I see the PR40 existed as well, see second attachment.
Attachments
It seems that Solavox was a brand name of retail giant Comet which was used from the end of 1975.
The Series 1 Solavox speakers are said to have used Wharfedale drive units from the discontinued range of Denton/Linton/Glendale models which had been relaunched as the XP range.
In the late 1970s, the Series 2 Solavox speaker models were sourced from Amstrad. These are the ones with the chrome driver trims.
P.S. The original name was SolarVox, but Comet dropped the 'r' in late 1975. The original SolarVox TK series was made in Scandinavia.
The Series 1 Solavox speakers are said to have used Wharfedale drive units from the discontinued range of Denton/Linton/Glendale models which had been relaunched as the XP range.
In the late 1970s, the Series 2 Solavox speaker models were sourced from Amstrad. These are the ones with the chrome driver trims.
P.S. The original name was SolarVox, but Comet dropped the 'r' in late 1975. The original SolarVox TK series was made in Scandinavia.
Interesting bit of history - you never know what you are really purchasing!
There has been a set of PR40s for sale and they have a different tweeter so perhaps they are a newer model.
Geoff.
There has been a set of PR40s for sale and they have a different tweeter so perhaps they are a newer model.
Geoff.
Thought it might interest some of you, but I have now fitted a pair of Solavox PR25 tweeters into one of my pairs of Glendale 3XP speakers (That is, 3XP internals in XP2 cabinets - white painted - yes they do fit) and I think I prefer the treble sound to the normal (other pair) of 3Xps in their correct cabinets. 3XP and XP2 cabinets are almost the same size - the only very slight difference is the recessed back panel on the 2XP. Sound - not a lot of difference but not quite so harsh as the normal tweeters. Have to be careful with volume as the Solavox (Wharfedale?) tweeters are only 35watts but I never turn the volume up high anyway.
Also - Hi-Fi World magazine - November 2021 - letter from a Dr John Hurley about "Ageing Ears". Very interesting as he seems to be suffering similar problems to me. He talks of "Treble edge - grain" becoming more apparent - I would call it harshness. He does say that speaker makers seems to be raising the treble when what we want is a purer treble not raised treble.
Is raised treble be called "More Detail" I wonder.
Must get round to flogging of a lot of speaker internals on E Bay!
Geoff.
Also - Hi-Fi World magazine - November 2021 - letter from a Dr John Hurley about "Ageing Ears". Very interesting as he seems to be suffering similar problems to me. He talks of "Treble edge - grain" becoming more apparent - I would call it harshness. He does say that speaker makers seems to be raising the treble when what we want is a purer treble not raised treble.
Is raised treble be called "More Detail" I wonder.
Must get round to flogging of a lot of speaker internals on E Bay!
Geoff.
Thre's a distribution of power to the three drivers, Geoff, and the tweeter will receive no more than 10% of the total amplifier power applied. So no need to worry about overloading your tweeters methinks!
I've not read my November copy of Hi-Fi World yet (I'm a long time subscriber). I'm chuffed to say that they have published around seven of my letters!
I've flicked forward to Dr John Hurley's letter and understand what he means by becoming much less tolerant of "treble edge" or "grain" with advancing age!
I think all tweeters should have an L pad or treble level switch.
Interconnects (like Dr Hurley's) and loudspeaker cables can have a (subtle?) affect on treble quality. However, at the often eye watering prices, you really need to have a friendly local dealer who will allow you to audition them along with your own equipment.
Gala - yes - didn't think of that - split 3 ways - of course.
I am using QED X-Tube XT40 speaker cable.
Unfortunately due to the layout of our lounge I have to use long runs for both the speakers - something like 12 meters each - no real choice I am afraid but the cable is excellent stuff.
I do have the L-Pad on all four of my speakers now as you advised and the difference is noticeable. Often I keep the level low and that does help - about a quarter up.
I can also switch in a graphic equaliser if I want to. It has many sliders so I can pretty much kill a specific sound, or rather, reduce it. I don't use it much as I am not keen on it (and my remove it) but I have fitted an interconnect switch box and only use it when really necessary (it only has one stereo input and one stereo output so it is fitted from the switch box then out to the Aux input on the amp.) Non GE goes direct to the amp - Tuner - CD - Phono inputs. The tuner, CD and turntable ah have two sets of leads running out from them, one set direct to the amp, the other to the switch box (phono via a pre-amp). It all works.
The Mrs looks at all the cables and walks away in horror! Luckily most of it is hidden! I just have to remember what lead goes where if I need to change things.
I also agree with interconnects and speaker cables giving a different sound - some more harsh than others, some with more details than others. I do find quite a number of interconnect cable can be a bit bright - or loose some base - detail again!
Must admin the thicker the speaker cable the better then sound I find and copper cables seem better to me than silver coated which are know to be a bit bright - detail again!
Geoff.
I am using QED X-Tube XT40 speaker cable.
Unfortunately due to the layout of our lounge I have to use long runs for both the speakers - something like 12 meters each - no real choice I am afraid but the cable is excellent stuff.
I do have the L-Pad on all four of my speakers now as you advised and the difference is noticeable. Often I keep the level low and that does help - about a quarter up.
I can also switch in a graphic equaliser if I want to. It has many sliders so I can pretty much kill a specific sound, or rather, reduce it. I don't use it much as I am not keen on it (and my remove it) but I have fitted an interconnect switch box and only use it when really necessary (it only has one stereo input and one stereo output so it is fitted from the switch box then out to the Aux input on the amp.) Non GE goes direct to the amp - Tuner - CD - Phono inputs. The tuner, CD and turntable ah have two sets of leads running out from them, one set direct to the amp, the other to the switch box (phono via a pre-amp). It all works.
The Mrs looks at all the cables and walks away in horror! Luckily most of it is hidden! I just have to remember what lead goes where if I need to change things.
I also agree with interconnects and speaker cables giving a different sound - some more harsh than others, some with more details than others. I do find quite a number of interconnect cable can be a bit bright - or loose some base - detail again!
Must admin the thicker the speaker cable the better then sound I find and copper cables seem better to me than silver coated which are know to be a bit bright - detail again!
Geoff.
I'm trying to figure out your wiring, Geoff.
There are two ways to connect a graphic equaliser:
1. Between preamp output and power amp input sockets, if fitted on the amplifier (and normally connected together with a bridge).
2. Between the tape monitor output and tape monitor input, if there is no facility to separate preamp and amp.
Full details are here: https://www.techwalla.com/articles/how-to-hook-up-a-graphic-equalizer-to-a-receiver
In the first case, a switch box could be set up in such a way as to bypass the graphic equaliser when necessary.
In the second case, switch the front panel output control from its present setting to the "Tape Monitor" setting and you can use the graphic equaliser.
I presume you have neither of these facilities?
There are two ways to connect a graphic equaliser:
1. Between preamp output and power amp input sockets, if fitted on the amplifier (and normally connected together with a bridge).
2. Between the tape monitor output and tape monitor input, if there is no facility to separate preamp and amp.
Full details are here: https://www.techwalla.com/articles/how-to-hook-up-a-graphic-equalizer-to-a-receiver
In the first case, a switch box could be set up in such a way as to bypass the graphic equaliser when necessary.
In the second case, switch the front panel output control from its present setting to the "Tape Monitor" setting and you can use the graphic equaliser.
I presume you have neither of these facilities?
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Hi,
OK I am using an integrated amp that has Turntable MM, CD, Tuner, Aux, Tape 1 in/out and tape 2 in/out.
Using a two way connection on the back to he Tuner (also CD and Turntable) I run one set of leads directly to the Tuner input on the amp and another to a 3-way interconnect switch box input 1. I do the same with the CD (input 2 on the switch box) and the and Turntable, (input 3 on the switch box). The Turntable MM has to go via a pre-amp when going to the switch box as the final input to the amp is not to the Turntable connection but to Aux).
From the switch box a single lead is run to the GE in and another from the GE out to the Aux on the Amp.
If I don't want to use the GE I simply pick Tuner, CD or Turntable on the amp.
If I want to use the GE I simple turn the amp select to Aux and use the switch box to select Tuner, CD or Turntable - making sure of course that I also turn on the power to the GE.
Yes I know - clear as mud! Sounds more complicated than it actually is.
I cannot use tape record, picking "Source" as the input (say Tuner) because the output (to GE) would have to go through the GE and back to the amp before going to the speakers.
If I am listening to the Tuner I cannot then select Aux as input because I will be using the same rotary knob to select Tuner and the other rotary knob will be set to "Source" (in this case Tuner) to play through the tape record output.
Even muddier now!
I shall now have look at the techwalla information.
Geoff.
Geoff.
OK I am using an integrated amp that has Turntable MM, CD, Tuner, Aux, Tape 1 in/out and tape 2 in/out.
Using a two way connection on the back to he Tuner (also CD and Turntable) I run one set of leads directly to the Tuner input on the amp and another to a 3-way interconnect switch box input 1. I do the same with the CD (input 2 on the switch box) and the and Turntable, (input 3 on the switch box). The Turntable MM has to go via a pre-amp when going to the switch box as the final input to the amp is not to the Turntable connection but to Aux).
From the switch box a single lead is run to the GE in and another from the GE out to the Aux on the Amp.
If I don't want to use the GE I simply pick Tuner, CD or Turntable on the amp.
If I want to use the GE I simple turn the amp select to Aux and use the switch box to select Tuner, CD or Turntable - making sure of course that I also turn on the power to the GE.
Yes I know - clear as mud! Sounds more complicated than it actually is.
I cannot use tape record, picking "Source" as the input (say Tuner) because the output (to GE) would have to go through the GE and back to the amp before going to the speakers.
If I am listening to the Tuner I cannot then select Aux as input because I will be using the same rotary knob to select Tuner and the other rotary knob will be set to "Source" (in this case Tuner) to play through the tape record output.
Even muddier now!
I shall now have look at the techwalla information.
Geoff.
Geoff.