Fidelio x2 just sounds good by itself. It doesn't 'need' a tube to sound good, unlike some headphones.
I also have the DT-880 250 ohms, i don't like it. It's bright with distorted sounding mids, but it does sound better through a tube.
I would tell you to not worry about it for the Fidelio x2s. They are better served with clean audio, imo. Those headphones were designed to express flat audio with a harmon curve response, they do all the work for you.
If you want a headphone recommendation though, given your headphone choices so far, if you like the fidelio x2's, I would recommend the Monoprice M560. Treat the removable wood panels as dust covers and remove them when you listen
IMO, best sounding budget planars.
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Back to the whammy amp... I hear a high pitch sound for a second or so and then loud pop after turning off the amp. It's loud enough that I can hear even when the headphones are not on my head.
I believe this is because the caps are discharging after turning off the power... and this takes several seconds. Are any of the charges being dissipated through the headphones? Is there an easy way to discharge quicker - and safely? To the ground??
There was some discussions on this previously, not sure what was the solution.
I believe this is because the caps are discharging after turning off the power... and this takes several seconds. Are any of the charges being dissipated through the headphones? Is there an easy way to discharge quicker - and safely? To the ground??
There was some discussions on this previously, not sure what was the solution.
Crack Headphone Compatibility
slowpogo,
IIRC you need to be careful with the Crack because it's an output transformerless (OTL) design so in theory it only works at its best with high i.e. several hundred ohm impedance headphones. Lower impedance headphones like the X2, (which I have and love) are well under 100 ohms (30 ? 50 ?) and may therefore not work at their best with the Crack.
Mark
slowpogo,
IIRC you need to be careful with the Crack because it's an output transformerless (OTL) design so in theory it only works at its best with high i.e. several hundred ohm impedance headphones. Lower impedance headphones like the X2, (which I have and love) are well under 100 ohms (30 ? 50 ?) and may therefore not work at their best with the Crack.
Mark
Whammy Build
Whammy build completed with the help of the excellent build guide by 6L6. The unit deserves all of the positive reactions by the other members who have built this kit. Sensational design by a true master coupled with a quality PCB and top class components. Thank you to all of the good people who make these projects possible.
The performance of the WHAMMY is sensational. Also exploring op-amp options from Burson Audio as the WHAMMY deserves an upgrade to see what it can truly deliver in detail and sound stage. Thanks again.
Whammy build completed with the help of the excellent build guide by 6L6. The unit deserves all of the positive reactions by the other members who have built this kit. Sensational design by a true master coupled with a quality PCB and top class components. Thank you to all of the good people who make these projects possible.
The performance of the WHAMMY is sensational. Also exploring op-amp options from Burson Audio as the WHAMMY deserves an upgrade to see what it can truly deliver in detail and sound stage. Thanks again.
Does anyone experience an intermittent channel swapping?
I mean the music on the left goes to the right and vice versa for couple seconds (if I ignore it); or I stop and playback again then it is back to normal. It happens maybe only once every 30 songs.
I changed to a different opamp but it still happens.
Could this be RPI3 bug? 4N35 bug?
I mean the music on the left goes to the right and vice versa for couple seconds (if I ignore it); or I stop and playback again then it is back to normal. It happens maybe only once every 30 songs.
I changed to a different opamp but it still happens.
Could this be RPI3 bug? 4N35 bug?
No channel loss. Nothing goes silent.
The instrument performing on only one channel suddenly switches to the other channel and vice versa. The swapping moment is very stereo feel.
Very interesting.
The instrument performing on only one channel suddenly switches to the other channel and vice versa. The swapping moment is very stereo feel.
Very interesting.
Build guide step 3
This may be the dumbest question ever asked and i feel like i know the answer but I want to be sure.
In step 3 of the build guide, wiring the PCB -Voltage jumpers, It gives options on how they must be connected properly depending on your mains voltage..
How do i know what that is?
I am sure its a fundamental thing I should know but I did not see anything in a search and i am trust but verify kinda guy.
This is in regard to the voltage coming out of the wall? i am in the USA so yellow wires?
I don't mind reading up a bit to learn more so any related beginner threads or links would be utilized to minimize these types of questions. learning a few pages at a time here.
Thanks!
This may be the dumbest question ever asked and i feel like i know the answer but I want to be sure.
In step 3 of the build guide, wiring the PCB -Voltage jumpers, It gives options on how they must be connected properly depending on your mains voltage..
How do i know what that is?
I am sure its a fundamental thing I should know but I did not see anything in a search and i am trust but verify kinda guy.
This is in regard to the voltage coming out of the wall? i am in the USA so yellow wires?
I don't mind reading up a bit to learn more so any related beginner threads or links would be utilized to minimize these types of questions. learning a few pages at a time here.
Thanks!
Hi if your voltage is USA 110v/120v then you connect both jumper wires like in the guide. Doesn't matter what colour they are but red or brown preferred so you know they are live.
There's a Wikipedia page
Mains electricity by country - Wikipedia
In the USA the standard "wall plug" outlet is 120V. The largest electric appliances like electric clothes dryers or electric ovens, have a much bigger 3-prong plug and run on (2 x 120V).
Audio equipment built for use inside USA, expects 120V mains input.
_
Mains electricity by country - Wikipedia
In the USA the standard "wall plug" outlet is 120V. The largest electric appliances like electric clothes dryers or electric ovens, have a much bigger 3-prong plug and run on (2 x 120V).
Audio equipment built for use inside USA, expects 120V mains input.
_
Hi guys. I was lurking this thread for a bit and decided to jump in into building a Whammy for my HD 650's (thanks to Jamie for the recommendation!). I wanted to know if anyone has experience with the Burson V6 Classic op amp together with HD 650's. Would they pair well together? I heard the Classic offers more soundstage than the Vivid and the reviews seemed to favor the former. Thanks!