"WHAMMY" Pass DIY headphone amp guide

So I opened it, sorry for the delay in doing that. I was able to get the meter out and check and it said -10 or -17 something like that with the amp turned on. I wasn't getting +17V and on the other check I was only getting -10v. So, it seems like it's a PSU problem? What parts exactly do I need to change?
Others are better informed than I am, but what I'd suggest is checking the voltage at other points along the way, to try to isolate the problem. Check the DC voltage coming out of the rectifier on both sides. So this would be at R20 and R21, or at the proper end of D1 and D2. Check the schematic for which end you want in each case. Then you might check the input to the voltage regulators, though that may not be very different, and I suppose you might as well check between R20/37 and R21/38. I'm going to guess it's one of the regulators....
 
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So I opened it, sorry for the delay in doing that. I was able to get the meter out and check and it said -10 or -17 something like that with the amp turned on. I wasn't getting +17V and on the other check I was only getting -10v. So, it seems like it's a PSU problem? What parts exactly do I need to change?
You will have to take out the PCB and check everything in order. First the secondary of the transformer, then the diode bridge, then the resistors in the CRC, then the negative voltage regulator, the LEDs if you use them, all in order. Failure of the capacitors is also not ruled out, although this is less likely because the device is not old.
 
@1nfinity Please post a series of well-lit, in-focus photos of your whammy, it will be extremely helpful for the troubleshooting process
Here are some I hope will help
 

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R32 is burnt up, so something was trying to send a lot of current to the negative rail.

As @ZUM911 noticed, the 4N35 that’s visible in the photo is installed backwards.

The Burson on the fly leads isn’t helping the anything, but may not be the culprit.

If the LED are out, there’s no power to the regulators, so the PSU needs to be probed and determined where the loss is.

What is the raw supply measuring?
 
R32 is burnt up, so something was trying to send a lot of current to the negative rail.

As @ZUM911 noticed, the 4N35 that’s visible in the photo is installed backwards.

The Burson on the fly leads isn’t helping the anything, but may not be the culprit.

If the LED are out, there’s no power to the regulators, so the PSU needs to be probed and determined where the loss is.

What is the raw supply measuring?
I am still new to building this stuff so I'm sorry, but could you guide me on how to measure the raw supply?