I did this check months ago and saw a distorted square wave at U1-1. I did something to make it square but now forget what I did.
Anyone who is interested, and has a scope, can check for a square wave at U1-1. Also do a frequency sweep.
Do you want a flat, low-frequency, response? Do you want a square wave to get through U1 without distortion?
Added a line out on my Whammy, and am impressed with the sound when installed in my system: M2x/Norwood, J6, B5 crossover, Denafrips Aries dac, Lowther PM6A/Emminence Beta15.Installed OPA2228, AD823 and Sparkos ss3602. As already stated the sound was very good, but the 823 and 2228 sounded “more up close, intimate and perhaps more detailed,” to quote Nelson Pass when describing positive phase 2nd harmonic. Lips were smacking and musicians and singers could be heard taking breaths.
The Sparkos ss3602 offered a “deeper soundstage and magnified illusion of placement of instruments in that depth,” as in negative phase 2nd harmonic. Background was dark and quiet. In pauses, I wondered where the music went. No smearing. Substantial and yet spacious. Decays and resonances in the venue were duplicated in my listening room. Pianos sounded richer harmonically, as in the case of Vikingur Olafsson. Mastery of the performers was more obvious. Low volume was still enjoyable listening.
All three set ups, and basically the Whammy alone, presented music in a way that I hadn’t heard before. Singers that I found unlistenable, like Joyce Didonato, suddenly were revealed in all their power and skill, with gorgeous tone, free of etching. And full of human emotions.
BTW, vdupham, your setup is gorgeous.
The Sparkos ss3602 offered a “deeper soundstage and magnified illusion of placement of instruments in that depth,” as in negative phase 2nd harmonic. Background was dark and quiet. In pauses, I wondered where the music went. No smearing. Substantial and yet spacious. Decays and resonances in the venue were duplicated in my listening room. Pianos sounded richer harmonically, as in the case of Vikingur Olafsson. Mastery of the performers was more obvious. Low volume was still enjoyable listening.
All three set ups, and basically the Whammy alone, presented music in a way that I hadn’t heard before. Singers that I found unlistenable, like Joyce Didonato, suddenly were revealed in all their power and skill, with gorgeous tone, free of etching. And full of human emotions.
BTW, vdupham, your setup is gorgeous.
Hi I am using Wima 0.1 MKP 10 to connect gnd with chasis for grounding. I saw a lot of people using Wima MKP X2 for this function. So can I use MKP10?
Hi,there....
I would like to ask if anyone in Europe has the Whammy board that I could buy? Here making a PCB is just way too expensive.... 1-5 peace is double for the original price and getting 12 for a reasonable price is just over my budget that is my monthly salary. I follow this tread since the beginning and have all the fine parts for it. I even both the raw PCB for making it at home with the provided Gerber files but it just wont be that good.... I have built the ACA amp with P2P which is working fine and looks and sounds great. Also have the B1 with Salas psu mod (Mesmerize) which I love and planning to build the B1 Nutube and Nelson F6 to finish my Hifi hobby,as I do have a complete 40 years old Revox B system that good enough for me along with my Radford STA-25 and DacEnd2 and some ECdesign modded TDA1541A dacs.......
So to make it short I am just looking for an available Whammy board in Europe that could be shiped to Hungary...... Thanks for your time
I would like to ask if anyone in Europe has the Whammy board that I could buy? Here making a PCB is just way too expensive.... 1-5 peace is double for the original price and getting 12 for a reasonable price is just over my budget that is my monthly salary. I follow this tread since the beginning and have all the fine parts for it. I even both the raw PCB for making it at home with the provided Gerber files but it just wont be that good.... I have built the ACA amp with P2P which is working fine and looks and sounds great. Also have the B1 with Salas psu mod (Mesmerize) which I love and planning to build the B1 Nutube and Nelson F6 to finish my Hifi hobby,as I do have a complete 40 years old Revox B system that good enough for me along with my Radford STA-25 and DacEnd2 and some ECdesign modded TDA1541A dacs.......
So to make it short I am just looking for an available Whammy board in Europe that could be shiped to Hungary...... Thanks for your time
I plan change opamp to discrete opamp like Ticha 992enh or Burson V6 Classic Single opamp. Do you think it better than classic opamp ?
I think WHAMMY's printed circuit board requires dual opamp chips to be plugged into the DIP-8 sockets. 2 opamps per 8 pin package. Like LM833, TL-072, NE5532, LM4562, and so on.
So burson v6 or ticha do not better than classic opamp ? I am using opa445bm because my version using 2 single opamp.
Mark was saying that you would need the dual opamp in one package. Burson Audio V6 opamps are great. Many people have written about their thoughts in this thread. The options in the DIYAudio store are below. Either the V6 Vivid or Classic works well as long as you buy the "Dual Opamp x 1".
Hi 6l6. Thank you for the photos on page 232. I just bought a full Whammy kit from the DIY store and had some questions. You mentioned resistors on the blue led, these did not come with the kit, are these necessary when installing it? Also I see that there are resistors on the rca outputs, are these absolutely necessary?
For wiring, where do I hook up blue and striped blue wires for the blue LED? I can see that 1k goes into blue and stripe white goes into 330 ohm, but which one is negative and positive?
Thank you for your help
For wiring, where do I hook up blue and striped blue wires for the blue LED? I can see that 1k goes into blue and stripe white goes into 330 ohm, but which one is negative and positive?
Thank you for your help
The LED resistor for the power indicator is absolutely necesary. Anywhere from 15k-30K, the higher the value the dimmer it will be. That resistor can go on either lead of the LED. In the photos the R9 pad is ground and R10 V+. Cathode of the LED to ground.
The resistors on the output RCAs are not strictly necessary, but a very good idea to use.
A resistor kit like this has saved the day for me on many DIY projects, it’s incredibly useful. https://a.co/d/gb77FTb
The resistors on the output RCAs are not strictly necessary, but a very good idea to use.
A resistor kit like this has saved the day for me on many DIY projects, it’s incredibly useful. https://a.co/d/gb77FTb
Hey guys does anyone know what values should be adopted for +-25v rails? Hear me out- this is for my modular preamp that has fixed 25v psu. I already reduced the voltage to the opamps with shunt regs fed by the 25v but id like to run the outputs at this higher voltage.
I figure i should increase the mosfet bias resistors from 10k to 22k or even 30k but what to do with the 100ohm sense resistor from the optocoupler? And also keep the output resistors at 10ohm or increase? Im trying to keep the heat lvl the same.
Thanks in advance
I figure i should increase the mosfet bias resistors from 10k to 22k or even 30k but what to do with the 100ohm sense resistor from the optocoupler? And also keep the output resistors at 10ohm or increase? Im trying to keep the heat lvl the same.
Thanks in advance
It should work just fine. Certainly don’t change the 100 Ohm.