I have purchased a transformer with 18V secondaries.
I don't think I would go lower than that unless you have a very specific requirement.
You will have the same readouts after the regulator no mather what the transformer voltage are. As long as it is minimum 15V transformer.
Sorry. I need to be more clear!
I previously built a Whammy with a 22V Transformer (using LEDs, etc.). It works great. I want to build another one. I already have the board. But this time I want to use 15V transformer. I thought I read somewhere what the PSU rail values should be (using exact same components with 22V transformer). I keep searching for those early posts discussing Whammy builds using 15V transformer but somehow not finding them. I know they are there.
If the intangible were present in the Burson Vivid V6, and cost were no object, I would prefer it over OPA2134PA . As is, I have no preference.
I realize it isn't a apples to apples comparison between ZM's Iron preamp (used with power amp, speakers) and WHAMMY as a headphone amp, but that was the best I came up with to describe what was missing in my listening experience.
Thanks for the questions and making me realize what was missing from my note earlier.
You can take out some of the variables by using the Whammy as a pre, don't forget to load the output to make it more comparable when driving your Sony MDR-7506
Burson V6 MKP Cap Mod
I thought I would share how I added the Burson MKP cap mod to my Whammy. Extra DIP8 socket, scrap resistor leads soldered to the pin shoulders, careful not to get solder on the pin extensions.
Note: I also replaced the original adjacent original spec 50V electrolytic PS caps with smaller diameter 35V caps to make room for the Burson plastic housing.
I thought I would share how I added the Burson MKP cap mod to my Whammy. Extra DIP8 socket, scrap resistor leads soldered to the pin shoulders, careful not to get solder on the pin extensions.
Note: I also replaced the original adjacent original spec 50V electrolytic PS caps with smaller diameter 35V caps to make room for the Burson plastic housing.
Attachments
Seeing all those V6 classic posts made me listen to it again to compare it to my current reference, V6 Vivid.
Thanks for that
Subjective impressions:
V6 classic sounds a bit dark and soft in direct comparison to the the vivid.
This mostly comes from the fact that the Vivid tends to exacerbate the transients (leading edge) of the dynamics, whereas the classic presents textures in a less aggressive way.
Classic is actually quite enjoyable for a change as cymbals sound rich and lush (while a bit aggressive, hyper-detailed on Vivid). Very non-fatiguing, nice for long listening sessions.
Price to pay is that the Classic seems to have less detail. More exactly, I can still hear those details, but they are more subtle.
V6 Classic has worse imaging than Vivid: the exact location of the instrument is a bit blurred around as if the image was more diffuse. Clearly audible on "Antonio Forcione - For Vic": on the last third of the song, 3 different guitar converse with different panning location and colors. With the vivid, they are nicely contoured and there is clear separation/void/space in between.
Soundstage is great on both, with the Vivid having a more "in your face" presentation, while the Classic is more laid back. Classic's fuzzy imaging also makes Sounstage difficult to "read".
There's a touch of bloom in the bass with the classic. As a result, bass sounds powerful and engaging, but not the most delicate or articulate. Noticeable on cello solos, or clean high dynamic bass impacts like on "Jacques Loussier Trio - Encore CD1 - opening track", Or "Massive attack - Angel".
Bloom is not dramatic and limited in bandwidth, so it's still far better than my old CD player CA 640C v2 using Wolfson WM8740 where Bass would bleed into mids, and acoustics guitars would sound artificially fat whatever the recording.
So in the end, I still feel like the Vivid performs overall better than Classic, but it's also about system synergy and personal taste.
If you have bright headphones like some Beyerdynamics, then the Classic should be a great match.
If you have neutral or dark headphones, like HD650 or something less bright, then the Vivid is a clear choice for me.
I should try some Sparkos and others just for fun.
Did somebody build Nelson's discrete Op Amp?
Some measurements:
PSU: +16.72 ; -16.71V
Op amp sees ~ +/- 15.4V. (I added 0.33uF Wima MKP10 across V+/- as close as possible to socket).
V6 vivid: drop across R47: 1.322V -> 28.1mA drawn
V6 classic: drop across R47: 1.293V -> 27.5mA drawn (close to what avdesignguru measured).
As already posted before, I checked the 10kHz square wave response with a scope and saw interesting behavior when zooming in on the transient:
Vivid seems to have 2 slew rates (4.2V/us and 25V/us), with the fast one only working at low levels and being "under-damped" Maybe that explains a tendency to exaggerate details.. hmm:
Burson V6 vivid.gif
Classic seems to have a single slew rate of 15V/us:
Burson V6 classic.gif
Note that we are talking about events in the MHz range way out of audio band.. who knows
Thanks for that
Subjective impressions:
V6 classic sounds a bit dark and soft in direct comparison to the the vivid.
This mostly comes from the fact that the Vivid tends to exacerbate the transients (leading edge) of the dynamics, whereas the classic presents textures in a less aggressive way.
Classic is actually quite enjoyable for a change as cymbals sound rich and lush (while a bit aggressive, hyper-detailed on Vivid). Very non-fatiguing, nice for long listening sessions.
Price to pay is that the Classic seems to have less detail. More exactly, I can still hear those details, but they are more subtle.
V6 Classic has worse imaging than Vivid: the exact location of the instrument is a bit blurred around as if the image was more diffuse. Clearly audible on "Antonio Forcione - For Vic": on the last third of the song, 3 different guitar converse with different panning location and colors. With the vivid, they are nicely contoured and there is clear separation/void/space in between.
Soundstage is great on both, with the Vivid having a more "in your face" presentation, while the Classic is more laid back. Classic's fuzzy imaging also makes Sounstage difficult to "read".
There's a touch of bloom in the bass with the classic. As a result, bass sounds powerful and engaging, but not the most delicate or articulate. Noticeable on cello solos, or clean high dynamic bass impacts like on "Jacques Loussier Trio - Encore CD1 - opening track", Or "Massive attack - Angel".
Bloom is not dramatic and limited in bandwidth, so it's still far better than my old CD player CA 640C v2 using Wolfson WM8740 where Bass would bleed into mids, and acoustics guitars would sound artificially fat whatever the recording.
So in the end, I still feel like the Vivid performs overall better than Classic, but it's also about system synergy and personal taste.
If you have bright headphones like some Beyerdynamics, then the Classic should be a great match.
If you have neutral or dark headphones, like HD650 or something less bright, then the Vivid is a clear choice for me.
I should try some Sparkos and others just for fun
.Did somebody build Nelson's discrete Op Amp?
Some measurements:
PSU: +16.72 ; -16.71V
Op amp sees ~ +/- 15.4V. (I added 0.33uF Wima MKP10 across V+/- as close as possible to socket).
V6 vivid: drop across R47: 1.322V -> 28.1mA drawn
V6 classic: drop across R47: 1.293V -> 27.5mA drawn (close to what avdesignguru measured).
As already posted before, I checked the 10kHz square wave response with a scope and saw interesting behavior when zooming in on the transient:
Vivid seems to have 2 slew rates (4.2V/us and 25V/us), with the fast one only working at low levels and being "under-damped" Maybe that explains a tendency to exaggerate details.. hmm:
Burson V6 vivid.gif
Classic seems to have a single slew rate of 15V/us:
Burson V6 classic.gif
Note that we are talking about events in the MHz range way out of audio band.. who knows
Attachments
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WHAMMY BOM - COmplete?
So as a noob, I'm trying to put together a WHAMMY BOM that includes everything I will need - even wiring, nuts/bolts, solder, heat paste, etc. Any suggestions to the attached draft BOM are appreciated(basically, I typed up the BOM at #5 and added a few comments and a case). TIA.
Also, I'd like to add a front power indicator, or even better the lit button noted in #293.
(I'd just as soon get the parts kit, but it is OOS seemingly forever - and I can't get a list of what's included there).
So as a noob, I'm trying to put together a WHAMMY BOM that includes everything I will need - even wiring, nuts/bolts, solder, heat paste, etc. Any suggestions to the attached draft BOM are appreciated(basically, I typed up the BOM at #5 and added a few comments and a case). TIA.
Also, I'd like to add a front power indicator, or even better the lit button noted in #293.
(I'd just as soon get the parts kit, but it is OOS seemingly forever - and I can't get a list of what's included there).
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I should add, I noticed the BOM is also missing the [power/plug assembly (I don't know what it's called) as well as the RCA connectors for the back. Again, suggestions are appreciated. I plan to post the full BOM once I have feedback, and swill not alternatives if folks want to offer them.
Power on indication
After spending some time with my second build, and giving thought to a third one, I had one of those moments when thinking about power on indication. For those running the LED voltage reference, try running a short piece of fiber optic cable from the LED to an opening in the front panel. Short, sweet, and simple. Probably give this a try for v1.3 later this year...digging back into ham radio right now.
After spending some time with my second build, and giving thought to a third one, I had one of those moments when thinking about power on indication. For those running the LED voltage reference, try running a short piece of fiber optic cable from the LED to an opening in the front panel. Short, sweet, and simple. Probably give this a try for v1.3 later this year...digging back into ham radio right now.
