No problem! Forgot to mention—look into their heat-lock glue—using a regular household Iron—works really really well—and fast—leaves a beautiful bond joint that handles finishing perfectly.
Since the Customer P/N field on that bag says "WHAM C3,C4" it is very likely that somebody put together a Mouser Shopping cart for at least some / perhaps all, Whammy components. And someone (else?) clicked on that Mouser Shopping cart, to order the parts. And Mouser shipped C3,C4 to them, in this very bag. Somehow the bag found its way into pfarrell's hands.
Haha. I made my own BOM Mr. Johnson! From the schematic and 6L6 parts notes/listing on page 1 of this thread, and reading said thread to pick up tips and tricks and such—doing the research on transformers that would fit 1U sub 40mm height still with the right juice, and more. BOM specifics are limited of course by the relatively short character count for the Customer P/N field!
Happy to share the project link at Mouser—sans transformer (Digikey)—if anyone wants it. It's full of those tasty Dale resistors 6L6 loves—all in quantities of 10 or more for future fun.
Here are my Mouser project lists (updated today for parts in stock):
PCB (does not include opamp or transformer)
Mouser Electronics
Chassis (does not include knob, 1/4" jack, 10K pot or AC power cord)
Mouser Electronics
That's a good one! And cheaper than mine....proper quantities.
I do have a preference for this part for the DIP socket if you plan on rolling opamps with breakout boards and pins:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/474-PRT-07937
Much more secure in my experience than the other varieties...
I do have a preference for this part for the DIP socket if you plan on rolling opamps with breakout boards and pins:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/474-PRT-07937
Much more secure in my experience than the other varieties...
Hey guys, I have a noise question I hope you can help me with. Here are the details:
- This is a stock build using the DIY store kit
- The noise is a constant "shhhhhhhhhhh" (is this the amps noise floor?)
- Not a buzz or hum
- It's there regardless of weather or not there is anything plugged into the input
- It's roughly one level through the first ~70% of volume pot, after that there's almost a step where it gets a little louder and stays that way through the next ~30% of pot travel
- I'm using HD600s which as you know are 300 Ohms and ATH-M40x which are 35 Ohms and it's there on both
- It's not crazy loud - I can't hear it if music is playing. I just expected the amp to be dead quiet. Am I just too picky?
Pic attached for reference (please excuse the power umbilical, I haven't cut the socket hole yet).
Thanks in advance for any help.
- This is a stock build using the DIY store kit
- The noise is a constant "shhhhhhhhhhh" (is this the amps noise floor?)
- Not a buzz or hum
- It's there regardless of weather or not there is anything plugged into the input
- It's roughly one level through the first ~70% of volume pot, after that there's almost a step where it gets a little louder and stays that way through the next ~30% of pot travel
- I'm using HD600s which as you know are 300 Ohms and ATH-M40x which are 35 Ohms and it's there on both
- It's not crazy loud - I can't hear it if music is playing. I just expected the amp to be dead quiet. Am I just too picky?
Pic attached for reference (please excuse the power umbilical, I haven't cut the socket hole yet).
Thanks in advance for any help.
Attachments
Disconnect the input connections and then short each input's center + connection to it's outer ground connection. Then put on your 'phones and turn up the level. What you hear is the noise floor. If the SHHHHH sound has gone away then it originated up stream from your amp.
Other than scraping off some of the anodization, what you suggest has been done - I just took it off for the pic. Are the screws that hold these panels enough to ground them to the rest? Because of the plastic trim ring, the front and back panels don't actually make contact with the rest of the chassis.
I've had issues in the past that folks have described and it really comes down to properly binding the chassis panels together. This is the downside to modular chassis, but there is a simple fix you can do: sand off the anodizing around the edges where the panels intersect/touch on the inside and did not have any noise/ground issues. You should be able to confirm continuity between those scuffed off points and anywhere else on the chassis, and if you find some that don't, you have more sanding to do. 
I've had issues in the past that folks have described and it really comes down to properly binding the chassis panels together. This is the downside to modular chassis, but there is a simple fix you can do: sand off the anodizing around the edges where the panels intersect/touch on the inside and did not have any noise/ground issues. You should be able to confirm continuity between those scuffed off points and anywhere else on the chassis, and if you find some that don't, you have more sanding to do.
Ok I'll start sanding
