I love this one so much, I cannot wait for a new one.
Cannot make BA2023. I will have to hear about the follies afterwards.
Thanks Wayne.
Can anyone spare me 194 pages and give me an understanding, or link, of what the alternate parts do?
To what specific alternate parts are you referring? Provide a quote, link, or reference, please.
If your referring to the different output transistors, they are used to make the circuit a headphone amp. The larger size output devices are used to drive headphones. (There is a capacitor in the circuit which is deleted when using the larger output devices.)
Yes, you adjust P1 on one channel for 0 mVDC on the output (or as close to zero as possible), then do the same with P2 on the other channel.
New PCB's arrived a few days ago.
I am about to measure a few JFETS and pick out a few that are close to each other in Idss and Transconductance. I will post plots
Thanks DT
Greetings. I've recently become interested in my first BUILD project. Would Wayne's BA2018 be a good place to start? Or would the Mezmerize Buffer be a better first build?
And being new, I could use recommendations for the power supply for both of these. THANKS!
And being new, I could use recommendations for the power supply for both of these. THANKS!
For a first timer, I would definately recommend the ACP+. Pluses: great sound, easy soldering, there sjould be a kit available, and PSU is ready made.
I would personally not recommend this linestage as a first build.
I would personally not recommend this linestage as a first build.
I just finished soldering this board as my first build. I thought it was rather easy. Just make sure to use solder paste and hot air for the smd parts. Did a bench test and both lights lit up the first time.
Just saw the post about getting them set to zero, going to do that next. Then what do I do? I'm building the preamp. What power supply and transformer is recommended? Where can i find those boards with encapsulated transformers? Is it correct that the input can be xlr or rca, but it only outputs to rca? Or why is there 3 inputs but only 2 outputs per channel?
Just saw the post about getting them set to zero, going to do that next. Then what do I do? I'm building the preamp. What power supply and transformer is recommended? Where can i find those boards with encapsulated transformers? Is it correct that the input can be xlr or rca, but it only outputs to rca? Or why is there 3 inputs but only 2 outputs per channel?
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Hi all,
finally got my build all sorted out. Here's some details and a couple of pictures.
Wayne’s 2018 Burning Amp Preamp kit, with Glassware Dual Bipolar 18V PS kit.
Summary/Features:
– Styling somewhat reminiscent of Nagra tape recorders
– Compact size: 31 cm x 24 cm x 6.3 m (12.5" x 9.75" x 2.75")
– Old school, non-digital interface
– Six non-balanced line-level inputs, one of which is mirrored on front panel (mini phone jack)
– Input level adjustors (multi-position/pole switches) on top of box for all but input #6
– Subwoofer crossover with + – 15VAC power supply (on-board regulator)
– Small switcher in shielded box for 5V PS for LED indicators
– Stepped attenuator for volume control
– Minimal balance control (12-position switch)
– Switchable (in/out) effects/processor loop via mini XLR jack
Controls on a preamp are fairly intuitive, but the one design problem for me was how to mark the different inputs. Even if I had wanted to send the front panel out for engraving, you know how those things change over time or even by the room it’s used in. Solution: place a rainbow of colored LEDs at the switch positions. Power all of them minimally, then drop to a lower value resistor when that input is selected for a brighter light. Then, you can place a colored dot on each piece of source hardware, or simpler, just match the color on the switch with the color of the LEDs used on that piece of input hardware. Enabled by 12 position, three pole Grayhill rotary switches I bought for next to nothing years ago: left, right, lights.
Handmade components: end bolsters, all knobs and surrounds, top vent, headphone jack, illuminated power switch.
I just got it sorted out. Tomorrow, will hook up to the Hafler and see what it sounds like.
finally got my build all sorted out. Here's some details and a couple of pictures.
Wayne’s 2018 Burning Amp Preamp kit, with Glassware Dual Bipolar 18V PS kit.
Summary/Features:
– Styling somewhat reminiscent of Nagra tape recorders
– Compact size: 31 cm x 24 cm x 6.3 m (12.5" x 9.75" x 2.75")
– Old school, non-digital interface
– Six non-balanced line-level inputs, one of which is mirrored on front panel (mini phone jack)
– Input level adjustors (multi-position/pole switches) on top of box for all but input #6
– Subwoofer crossover with + – 15VAC power supply (on-board regulator)
– Small switcher in shielded box for 5V PS for LED indicators
– Stepped attenuator for volume control
– Minimal balance control (12-position switch)
– Switchable (in/out) effects/processor loop via mini XLR jack
Controls on a preamp are fairly intuitive, but the one design problem for me was how to mark the different inputs. Even if I had wanted to send the front panel out for engraving, you know how those things change over time or even by the room it’s used in. Solution: place a rainbow of colored LEDs at the switch positions. Power all of them minimally, then drop to a lower value resistor when that input is selected for a brighter light. Then, you can place a colored dot on each piece of source hardware, or simpler, just match the color on the switch with the color of the LEDs used on that piece of input hardware. Enabled by 12 position, three pole Grayhill rotary switches I bought for next to nothing years ago: left, right, lights.
Handmade components: end bolsters, all knobs and surrounds, top vent, headphone jack, illuminated power switch.
I just got it sorted out. Tomorrow, will hook up to the Hafler and see what it sounds like.
Thanks, all appreciate the comments and the help getting things sorted out.
Here's the back. Inputs are at lower right. Bypass/processor plug and switch at top and center right. Output, frequency and volume for the subwoofer crossover just to its left.
Here's the back. Inputs are at lower right. Bypass/processor plug and switch at top and center right. Output, frequency and volume for the subwoofer crossover just to its left.
