Thanks turion64. There seems to be a limited selection for my Stahl DDSS system which has been so effective for me in the thru-hole projects. I have this tip set on the way but nothing there that seems like a "chisel". Do I need to invest in a better iron with more flexibility for the SMD stuff? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004D06QM4?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
for reference, see "chisel"
Type of tip, for sold. irons with heating element; Manufacturer, QUICK, QUICK-Q-T-0.5C |EN|
most of these adequate for Hako/Baku stations
even Pa is using one, though, I believe his one is always cranked to max ......... Old School
Type of tip, for sold. irons with heating element; Manufacturer, QUICK, QUICK-Q-T-0.5C |EN|
most of these adequate for Hako/Baku stations
even Pa is using one, though, I believe his one is always cranked to max ......... Old School
When I did my smd’s I followed the advice but instead of trying to hold the smd with a toothpick etc. I took a small piece of scotch tape and taped half of it down. Tacked the exposed leg took off the tape and soldered the other 2 legs then reflowed the first one. Bob’s your uncle! Easy peasy, then clean
Investing in a good soldering station will make your building life much easier but what you have will probably work fine. Don’t spend money if you’re not serious, or crazy, about this hobby. BTW, I don’t think the tips you posted are made for your base model. Chisel, or screwdriver tips, just heat better (IMHO) but don’t spend $ just to put 8 SMDs on, especially these on the BA2018. I finally bought this one (ADS200 AccuDrive Soldering Station with TD-200, ISB Cubby & 3 Tip Bundle (120V Only) | Pace Worldwide) because it gave finer control for soldering. It was my gift to myself and it wasn’t terribly expensive (but it was not cheap by any means). You can see the two chisel tips that came with the kit. The SMD parts for the BA2018 are small, but easy. Fine diameter solder will make your life a lot easier. I’ve always used 620F (326C) for all of my work, including SMDs, and nothing ever got destroyed as long as you worked quickly. Polystyrene caps are the only exception to the temp rule that I’ve used and heat sink clips are used with soldering them.
Cheers
Yup, another tried-and-true method. Lots of folk report positive outcomes using tape. Use any technique that works for you!
Another of Wayne’s BA2018s. Incorporating Lenny’s VCU Muses board/display/remote offering - great value for $100, IMO.
it’s done in laser-cut perspex and attached to a 2mm-thick 2U blanking plate for use in a rack. I am waiting on a Faraday cage enclosing the BA2018 that one of the local metal-working concerns with an industrial punch has been promising for about a month - but the manager is family so I’m low priority.
It has two source inputs and a tape monitor. The Krell chassis in the last image is an M2X in disguise 🙃.
it’s done in laser-cut perspex and attached to a 2mm-thick 2U blanking plate for use in a rack. I am waiting on a Faraday cage enclosing the BA2018 that one of the local metal-working concerns with an industrial punch has been promising for about a month - but the manager is family so I’m low priority.
It has two source inputs and a tape monitor. The Krell chassis in the last image is an M2X in disguise 🙃.
Attachments
Doesn’t the plastic enclosure build up static charges? Just a question, not a comment..
My initial Google many years ago returned a ‘not a big problem’ consensus. Been using perspex for more than a decade and nary an issue so….doesn’t seem a problem in the tropics.
Thanks, Mark. I’d have thought that you were waaay overqualified to service a Dokorder!!
The Revox in the image came in to my possession at the beginning of this year in terrible condition. I paid $150 for it and spent about $500 restoring it, with valuable help from a retired senior BBC engineer. Took months but it was a labour of love kind of project and it’s now working great - calibrated and completely rebuilt mechanically and electrically. So go for that Dokorder….
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for reference, see "chisel"
Type of tip, for sold. irons with heating element; Manufacturer, QUICK, QUICK-Q-T-0.5C |EN|
most of these adequate for Hako/Baku stations
even Pa is using one, though, I believe his one is always cranked to max ......... Old School
Interesting, I always run my solder irons full throttle. Like the quick touch and done.
Russellc
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for reference, see "chisel"
Type of tip, for sold. irons with heating element; Manufacturer, QUICK, QUICK-Q-T-0.5C |EN|
most of these adequate for Hako/Baku stations
even Pa is using one, though, I believe his one is always cranked to max ......... Old School
The Quick TS1200 looks like a wonderful model! Similar to the one I have now.. Never heard of them before.
Thanks Zen Mod!
