Hi JT!
Muses 72320.
Pros- Amazing sound (I only compared mine to a DACT 50k)! LED display. Remote control function for volume +- and mute. Some designs incorporate balance function via remote control as well.
Cons - Needs an additional +-15 V supply. Also, if you want to have a display (Adafruit etc.), another additional supply (5V) is preferred. Occupies more real state inside the preamp front plate and perimeter. Needs a few hours of continuous play before it opens up and really shine. Requires small pin SMD soldering (much smaller than the BA18 component) for the volume chip.
meldano, a member, sells the boards at Swap Meet and the discussion thread is also there. I bought mine from him.
Abe
Muses 72320.
Pros- Amazing sound (I only compared mine to a DACT 50k)! LED display. Remote control function for volume +- and mute. Some designs incorporate balance function via remote control as well.
Cons - Needs an additional +-15 V supply. Also, if you want to have a display (Adafruit etc.), another additional supply (5V) is preferred. Occupies more real state inside the preamp front plate and perimeter. Needs a few hours of continuous play before it opens up and really shine. Requires small pin SMD soldering (much smaller than the BA18 component) for the volume chip.
meldano, a member, sells the boards at Swap Meet and the discussion thread is also there. I bought mine from him.
Abe
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Forgot to add, it's 10k. Yes, there is a difference that I noticed when I used a source with tube output compared to solid state. For tube, I think 10k is not ideal.
I would like to use this switch.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YKV6HQL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I do want to isolate the DC and AC at the switch, so I am thinking of something like this.
Solid State Relays
I have the Mezmerize selector to tap 12v DC from.
They claim very low EMF.
I don't know, looks good on paper
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YKV6HQL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I do want to isolate the DC and AC at the switch, so I am thinking of something like this.
Solid State Relays
I have the Mezmerize selector to tap 12v DC from.
They claim very low EMF.
I don't know, looks good on paper
Thanks guys... am working an idea.
@ Flame I used something like that for my mono builds, it was from Mouser and much more money, but better rated. You can buy the DC supply there as well. The DC simply runs the LED and has no interaction with the circuit for mains switching . You pull the mains into the supply and it outputs the DC voltage needed. Make sure you do the match and add the dropping resistor, or you will cook the LED.
@ Flame I used something like that for my mono builds, it was from Mouser and much more money, but better rated. You can buy the DC supply there as well. The DC simply runs the LED and has no interaction with the circuit for mains switching . You pull the mains into the supply and it outputs the DC voltage needed. Make sure you do the match and add the dropping resistor, or you will cook the LED.
The mezmerize has 12v dc out so I was going to use that for the LED in the switch and for the relay.
The light is LED portion is good for 12 volts I even tested it so this seams like an easy way to not have AC and DC through the switch.
Will look into options from Mouser
Thanks
The light is LED portion is good for 12 volts I even tested it so this seams like an easy way to not have AC and DC through the switch.
Will look into options from Mouser
Thanks
It's not in the same switch F... It's two switches, one snaps on the back of the other and the AC and DC have their own switched, those no change of a switch issue dumping mains on the DC side.
That is at least the one from Mouser, but your version is much cheaper... if it works out well let me know for future builds. 🙂
JT
That is at least the one from Mouser, but your version is much cheaper... if it works out well let me know for future builds. 🙂
JT
Put the covers on the build today... Don't care much for the face plate, I guess I need to have them re-anodized, but it probably won't happen. I'm very pleased with the sound driving an MX2 with Pass original design.
The switch on the front is a dummy the supply is below with two VRDNs driving a full mono design, and 2 umbilicals delivering 18v +- t
Back to the Badger build now... 🙂
The switch on the front is a dummy the supply is below with two VRDNs driving a full mono design, and 2 umbilicals delivering 18v +- t
Back to the Badger build now... 🙂
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MEK should soften the silkscreen paint to the point it will wipe off. Test first on inconspicuous part to see if the anodizing is effected.
Thanks guys... I might have some MEK... nasty stuff that.. gloves and well vented for anyone using this stuff. Just a safety FYI for those thinking of trying this stuff kills livers and causes cancer.
JT,
Have you tried the black marker trick? Sometimes the results are pretty good and you can't make out the handiwork from a distance. 🙂
Have you tried the black marker trick? Sometimes the results are pretty good and you can't make out the handiwork from a distance. 🙂
The sharpie thing leaves the color off, I use it for small scratches and stuff, but don't really want it on the face, but thanks for the input. 🙂
Folks, I'm looking to build this and power it the the Jung Superregulator. What is the optimal voltage? Do I need both pos and neg rails of the Superregulator? If only positive is used, can I modify the other (neg) side of the board for dual mono? (my answer seems to be here: Super Regulator) For the Superregulator, what should the resistor values be (R13,R14) to get the desired output voltage. Thanks! I need a little hand holding on this one. I've read the original article and the guide on customizing voltages and it's not clicking for me.
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First post on here... I have always wanted to get a PCB manufactured but I have little confidence in my ability to make a successful layout. I have done my best at laying out Wayne's schematic with included power supply. I attached a screenshot as well as a .zip file with KiCAD project. Please give any thoughts and/or advice on improving this before I send it off to be manufactured. Thank you in advance!
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Any advise on trying to combine this with honeybager as integrated other than separate power supplies? Is the larger power supply going to be too noisy of an environment? Would it fit in 4u deluxe?
