I've seen a few like you saying that too.
Rolling 10db baffle step (some actual baffle step, more the climb) would seem to work according to stuff I've saved over time.
https://rutcho.com/speaker_drivers/tang_band_w8_1772/tang_band_w8-1772.html
$350 each isn't cheap.
Rolling 10db baffle step (some actual baffle step, more the climb) would seem to work according to stuff I've saved over time.
https://rutcho.com/speaker_drivers/tang_band_w8_1772/tang_band_w8-1772.html
$350 each isn't cheap.
No, there are not cheap for sure.
And they need at least two notches (either passive or EQ) to take out some really annoying peaks.
Let's face it, I've never had a driver that I liked out of the box, they all need some tweaking.
But with the notches, they become really impressive. The thin light cone paper really resolves music details well, coupled with that big magnet to control it.
And they need at least two notches (either passive or EQ) to take out some really annoying peaks.
Let's face it, I've never had a driver that I liked out of the box, they all need some tweaking.
But with the notches, they become really impressive. The thin light cone paper really resolves music details well, coupled with that big magnet to control it.
Your whizzer is damaged, your surround is torn so now a leaky box…….replace the driver and start over.
Yup. Making a bigger sealed, 36”tall x 22” wide x 14” deep (1.618 ratios), with the driver up at the top.
Different listening space, should help with mid bass (it does on the other speakers).
Different listening space, should help with mid bass (it does on the other speakers).
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I can see how the 1772 can be better resolution, it is 10g cone vs 15g on the 2145, and even a reverse roll surround.
Also, the qts is thusly stronger @ .27 vs .45
I think people believe neo magnet work a squeek like alnico providing a bit of distortion reduction, idk.
But the 2145 would be a better "used wide open" or cross near 100hz even.........
Even @ low volumes, movies, when run right off of left/right rca jacks, can get loud/low.
Also, the qts is thusly stronger @ .27 vs .45
I think people believe neo magnet work a squeek like alnico providing a bit of distortion reduction, idk.
But the 2145 would be a better "used wide open" or cross near 100hz even.........
Even @ low volumes, movies, when run right off of left/right rca jacks, can get loud/low.
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2 drivers on the way, notch filter parts too .................
I'd appreciate your thoughts on driver at top or driver a bit down.................
To me, I'm leaning on driver at top to get speakers closer to TV middle.
Sitting 8' away, maybe movies 15% vs music 85%.....
Speakers will be on either side of the TV................
I'd appreciate your thoughts on driver at top or driver a bit down.................
To me, I'm leaning on driver at top to get speakers closer to TV middle.
Sitting 8' away, maybe movies 15% vs music 85%.....
Speakers will be on either side of the TV................
At extreme top; max TL gain at the expense of ideally needing more damping, so a bit of a 'catch 22', whereas at odd harmonics we get a progressively smoother response, minimal extra damping required at the expense of a less LF loading.
Note that driver(s), vent(s) ideally need to be at a pipe's odd harmonics, so with 'L' = internal height, 'Z' = driver, vent and using the acoustic center of clustered drivers........
Z = (L)x ~ 0 (top), 0.217, 0.349, 0.424, 0.561
Vent offset only (if used), depending on box HxWxD ratio: Z = (L)x ~0.651, 0.714, 0.848, 0 (bottom)
Can box be taller to get the optimum 0.349 (MJK), 0.424 (GM) preference?
Note that driver(s), vent(s) ideally need to be at a pipe's odd harmonics, so with 'L' = internal height, 'Z' = driver, vent and using the acoustic center of clustered drivers........
Z = (L)x ~ 0 (top), 0.217, 0.349, 0.424, 0.561
Vent offset only (if used), depending on box HxWxD ratio: Z = (L)x ~0.651, 0.714, 0.848, 0 (bottom)
Can box be taller to get the optimum 0.349 (MJK), 0.424 (GM) preference?
Even golden ratio baffles benefit from optimized driver locations when fairly large like yours.
Ah, ok. Thanks.
I can't see HF ever hitting the edges based on a head's dispersion at 8'.
I'm not so sure about say 2khz or 1khz (diffraction on the front).
Or internal peaks making it though to the outside
I can't see HF ever hitting the edges based on a head's dispersion at 8'.
I'm not so sure about say 2khz or 1khz (diffraction on the front).
Or internal peaks making it though to the outside
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post 10
an ideal 8" on a 12" baffle
Way better than how a (centered) 1" tweeter lights up the edges (pic below it) .............
post 13 then 15 show moving the tweet around to get flatter responses................
an ideal 8" on a 12" baffle
Way better than how a (centered) 1" tweeter lights up the edges (pic below it) .............
post 13 then 15 show moving the tweet around to get flatter responses................
There is also software called The Edge that lets you do baffle simulations. It has one purpose and is perhaps more intuitive than vituixcad. Simply trying out locations is going to demonstrate very quickly which frequencies are affected and which aren't.
Got to find the right "tweet spot"........
Sorry! Hard to resist.
Sorry! Hard to resist.
Slight update..........
Have you seen the price of baltic birch ?
13 layer, 3/4" $150 ? ouch......
My box builder said he can pop the baffle off, sand it, then re-glue a different baffle on.
May be able to listen in 2 weeks..............
Have you seen the price of baltic birch ?
13 layer, 3/4" $150 ? ouch......
My box builder said he can pop the baffle off, sand it, then re-glue a different baffle on.
May be able to listen in 2 weeks..............
lol, well the builder couldn't pop the front panel off.
Instead, he cut a 10" hole for the driver in the original baffle, then shaved the 10" disc down to near 7", used it to plug the hole when the driver was right up against the edge.
Maybe this weekend add the 2nd baffle to the front of the box (with the hole so it looks like the pic in post above).
Instead, he cut a 10" hole for the driver in the original baffle, then shaved the 10" disc down to near 7", used it to plug the hole when the driver was right up against the edge.
Maybe this weekend add the 2nd baffle to the front of the box (with the hole so it looks like the pic in post above).
Still needs sand / putty, and the new driver installed.....................
But, coming along.