" I am more concerned with getting the [ USSA 3.2 ] boards up and running. "
" Will be using a VRDN board as my temp power supply to test the boards before hooking everything up. "
" ... for most of my first watt clone builds, "
If you've built an F5 , the USSA 3.2 is just the next step .
To get used to the circuit board layout , suggest using a pencil and paper
and sketch out where J1 , P1 , M3 and R13 are physically located ... and then where J2 , P2 , M4 , and R14 are located .
Do you have signal generator and a scope ?
Start with P1 and P2 fully counter clockwise .
Just like with an F5 , turning the trimmers clockwise will increase the bias current .
Then you'l start to see the waveform coming to life on the scope .
Again , I checked the bias current of the FQP3's by measuring the voltage drop across R13 and R14 .
" Will be using a VRDN board as my temp power supply to test the boards before hooking everything up. "
" ... for most of my first watt clone builds, "
If you've built an F5 , the USSA 3.2 is just the next step .
To get used to the circuit board layout , suggest using a pencil and paper
and sketch out where J1 , P1 , M3 and R13 are physically located ... and then where J2 , P2 , M4 , and R14 are located .
Do you have signal generator and a scope ?
Start with P1 and P2 fully counter clockwise .
Just like with an F5 , turning the trimmers clockwise will increase the bias current .
Then you'l start to see the waveform coming to life on the scope .
Again , I checked the bias current of the FQP3's by measuring the voltage drop across R13 and R14 .
I havent built the F5. But all of this really helps, thanks guys, will take me a bit to get the boards mounted on the heatsinks.
Years ago on DIYAudio , I was sternly told by a very experienced Audio builder , that the power switch must switch both the Hot and Neutral .
However , I was just advised this is not correct . Here in Canada CSA sets the standards for appliances ( ie Amplifiers ) .
Canadian Standards Association clearly states that the power switch should only break the Hot and NOT the Neutral .
.
Same story in the US . For UL-listed appliance switches, you should always switch the hot wire, not the neutral. Switching the neutral can create a dangerous situation where an appliance still has power when switched off, potentially leading to electrocution.
.
However , I was just advised this is not correct . Here in Canada CSA sets the standards for appliances ( ie Amplifiers ) .
Canadian Standards Association clearly states that the power switch should only break the Hot and NOT the Neutral .
.
Same story in the US . For UL-listed appliance switches, you should always switch the hot wire, not the neutral. Switching the neutral can create a dangerous situation where an appliance still has power when switched off, potentially leading to electrocution.
.