I reread everything and I think I will review the crossover cut, keeping the board and the scheme. I will also smooth the front because done in such a hurry you can see the chippings of the wood. what I have matured listening to them in hybrid mode, that is on the left a LS 3/5a 15ohm and on the right this is that I have to change the crossover cut, so it is too low, I have to raise it and bring the cut to at least 3500, but also 3800. the center that did not sound bad, just a lot of voice because of the two woofers, had a 0.25mH coil on the tweeter and a 4uF capacitor.
ok, in the meantime that the weather improves, too much rain and too much humidity to refine the front as best as possible, I concentrated on the sound and on how much I managed to understand about these WF 1334 & WF Tw...0326h
I redid the entire crossover returning to the 2nd order /12db see in pic.
the only change is on the woofer which has a lot of voice and therefore I increased the value of the inductance a bit. there is a magic that came out when I mounted a panel as if it were the crossover inside the box and this - divider - of the volume puts the woofer in a position to have more depth of sound.
...
L2 = 1.7mH
C2 = 1.8 /2.2 ( there is not much difference )
+
R1 = 1.2 ohm
R2 = 23 ''
I redid the entire crossover returning to the 2nd order /12db see in pic.
the only change is on the woofer which has a lot of voice and therefore I increased the value of the inductance a bit. there is a magic that came out when I mounted a panel as if it were the crossover inside the box and this - divider - of the volume puts the woofer in a position to have more depth of sound.
...
L2 = 1.7mH
C2 = 1.8 /2.2 ( there is not much difference )
+
R1 = 1.2 ohm
R2 = 23 ''
Do you have an audio signal generator? One with a dial for frequency is useful. A computer program would do although harder to dial back and forth. If you listen to a slow sine sweep on the separate drivers you might hear whether they peak before they fall, and learn where.
Playing a fixed sine into both at once near the crossover, you can estimate phase by moving your head up and down in front of them.
Playing a fixed sine into both at once near the crossover, you can estimate phase by moving your head up and down in front of them.
😵
no, i have none of the things you're talking about. and then i didn't understand what i should do up and down with my head.
no, i have none of the things you're talking about. and then i didn't understand what i should do up and down with my head.
What you are looking for is a smooth transition as you move your head between the woofer and the tweeter.
No peaking or dipping of the sound level at the crossover frequency - just a smooth transition from one driver to the other.
P.S. You can get a signal generator app for your smartphone or signal generator software for your PC.
No peaking or dipping of the sound level at the crossover frequency - just a smooth transition from one driver to the other.
P.S. You can get a signal generator app for your smartphone or signal generator software for your PC.
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You can learn about the phase relationship by the position of the lobes. Simply though, you don't want to be sitting in line with a null.
ah ok, now I understand.
it seems good to me, there is no drop and it is fluid. the only thing is that these 16ohm woofers always have too much voice.
@Galu
P.S. You can get a signal generator app for your smartphone or signal generator software for your PC.
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no, no smartphone and no software on pc.
it seems good to me, there is no drop and it is fluid. the only thing is that these 16ohm woofers always have too much voice.
@Galu
P.S. You can get a signal generator app for your smartphone or signal generator software for your PC.
---
no, no smartphone and no software on pc.
Because a woofer and a tweeter are a certain distance apart, lobing occurs when they play the same frequency.
I'm not sure there's much you can do about that in your circumstances, but you can read more about lobing here:
https://audiojudgement.com/speaker-...apart, and use a 3rd order crossover topology.
P.S. So, I'm not alone in not owning a smartphone? Let's face it, due to my advancing years I'm having problems operating my dumbphone!
I'm not sure there's much you can do about that in your circumstances, but you can read more about lobing here:
https://audiojudgement.com/speaker-...apart, and use a 3rd order crossover topology.
P.S. So, I'm not alone in not owning a smartphone? Let's face it, due to my advancing years I'm having problems operating my dumbphone!
let's say that this doesn't sound bad, placed next to the more precise LS 3/5a, but I want to try another card I've never used before - I want to give the woofer a low pass to put it to the test. this voice that goes above 3000hz is too much.
The crossover frequency doesn't have to be the same for both woofer and tweeter.
Sometimes it's better to move the low pass frequency down a bit and the high pass frequency up a bit.
Sometimes it's better to move the low pass frequency down a bit and the high pass frequency up a bit.
but of course yes, in fact as you will have seen I changed the inductance on the woofer compared to the classic 3500hz cut, but these woofers with so much voice do not give up. I was thinking of treating the woofer with the 3rd order to see if by cutting it to 2900 it calms down and adapts.
there's another thing i wanted to know from you all - this you see is a crossover a friend made me in 2008 for a two way in a car with vifa woofer and morel tweeter. on the woofer a 2nd order, but on the tweeter i still don't understand what the hell he invented. you?
You can see the second order high pass. It will see everything to the right of that as a lump sum load. The two resistors reduce the tweeter level. The R and C reduce the impedance where it rises toward the higher frequencies, causing the other components to reduce the response of the higher frequencies further than they otherwise would.
R1 and R2 form an L pad attenuator.
The series resistor and capacitor combination in parallel with the tweeter is a Zobel network that flattens the rising impedance at high frequencies.
EDIT: I was typing this while AllenB's response came in!
could this be adopted for this very vocal woofer?
there is not even polarity inversion on the woofer - is this correct?
there is not even polarity inversion on the woofer - is this correct?
The impedance of a woofer will slowly rise with increasing frequency, due to voice coil inductance.
If the impedance changes then so does the crossover frequency. The use of a Zobel network on a woofer keeps the impedance constant so that the crossover frequency stays the same.
Doing this may not be of much help to you in your circumstances. Importantly, you need to know certain parameters of the woofer to calculate the values of the Zobel components: https://audiojudgement.com/impedance-equalization-circuit-zobel-network/
Woofers are generally connected -ve terminal to input ground. Mids and tweeters may be connected +ve terminal to ground depending on the order of the crossover.
If the impedance changes then so does the crossover frequency. The use of a Zobel network on a woofer keeps the impedance constant so that the crossover frequency stays the same.
Doing this may not be of much help to you in your circumstances. Importantly, you need to know certain parameters of the woofer to calculate the values of the Zobel components: https://audiojudgement.com/impedance-equalization-circuit-zobel-network/
Woofers are generally connected -ve terminal to input ground. Mids and tweeters may be connected +ve terminal to ground depending on the order of the crossover.
in my last 2nd order crossover scheme, I reversed both the tweeter and the woofer, but as you can see in the one I pulled out of the drawer, it marked to reverse the tweeter but not the woofer.
Phase is a funny thing, especially when you don't have clear filter alignments (not a problem in and of itself).
I wouldn't know if you have a woofer voicing issue that wants EQ, or that this is a baffle step issue? It could be some filter peaking and it could also be a cone breakup problem.
All I know is you want less top end from it. Sure, the impedance compensation would do that (don't worry about the L-pad for the woofer). Increasing the inductance will also do it. Changing the inductor to capacitor ratio or the crossover frequency also would. Each may give you a different shape.
I wouldn't know if you have a woofer voicing issue that wants EQ, or that this is a baffle step issue? It could be some filter peaking and it could also be a cone breakup problem.
All I know is you want less top end from it. Sure, the impedance compensation would do that (don't worry about the L-pad for the woofer). Increasing the inductance will also do it. Changing the inductor to capacitor ratio or the crossover frequency also would. Each may give you a different shape.
