Working with Chloroform
Hi!
I am building a case for my aleph ono, and I need to do a special glue-action: I have a sheet of aluminium with text printed on it, and a piece of plexiglass.
With the info found in this thread, I bought a small bottle of Chloroform, and I am now ready to start glueing.
Apart from the dangers that Chloroform has, does anyone know how this will work? How sticky will it get? how long does it have to dry?
This is what the construction will have to look like:
The original question is on page 15 of this thread
Bouke
Hi!
I am building a case for my aleph ono, and I need to do a special glue-action: I have a sheet of aluminium with text printed on it, and a piece of plexiglass.
With the info found in this thread, I bought a small bottle of Chloroform, and I am now ready to start glueing.
Apart from the dangers that Chloroform has, does anyone know how this will work? How sticky will it get? how long does it have to dry?
This is what the construction will have to look like:
The original question is on page 15 of this thread
Bouke
It almost dry immediately, I used to build wet/dry filter for my fish tank with them, it is not sticky on its own, evaporate very fast, it more or less melt the two surfaces together, use it in a well ventilated area.
Hope this help
Chris
PS. no second chance with it, must get it right first time when align surfaces
Hope this help
Chris
PS. no second chance with it, must get it right first time when align surfaces
Hi Bouke,
Sorry, I just realize you are trying to glue metal to plexiglass, I don't think it will work Chloroform. It only work with plexiglass to plexiglass, you can ignore my previous post then..
Chris
Sorry, I just realize you are trying to glue metal to plexiglass, I don't think it will work Chloroform. It only work with plexiglass to plexiglass, you can ignore my previous post then..
Chris
If that stuff is basically a solvent for the plexiglas, I would be willing to bet that it will adhere to the aluminum. The dissolved plastic should grip into the "tooth" of the aluminum, since it is brushed. I wouldn't attempt it without some extra material with which to do a test though. Chances of getting it right immediately without experience seems low to me.
If it's anything like model cement, I would be worried about bubbles. You want to be able to see the aluminim through the plexiglas, right?
🙄 
Good luck
/Vince- thinks it could be tough to get it right.
If it's anything like model cement, I would be worried about bubbles. You want to be able to see the aluminim through the plexiglas, right?
🙄 Good luck
/Vince- thinks it could be tough to get it right.
Aluminum and glues
did you know that F16's and F18's aluminum skins are glued together -- special anaerobic cyanoacrylates.
did you know that F16's and F18's aluminum skins are glued together -- special anaerobic cyanoacrylates.
chris ma said:
I have made a specially painted frontpanel, and the connection between the aluminium must me crystal clear with no bubbles.
I've got enough to practice... so that woulnt be a problem..
Thanks for all the tips
Bouke
A very useful tool I have is a sandblaster cabinet. It is ideal for finishing your aluminum panels, I use glass bead abrasive to get a brighter finish.
One thing I find very useful are those abrasive wheels used on bench grinder. I use it everyday for deburring and cleaning metal parts. Although it may seem a bit expensive, yet it's worth every penny. It's from Sears Industrial Catalog 2000-2001, tel: (800) 776-8666. I also recommend ordering that catalog, because the choice of tools there is splendid.
I'm using deburring wheel, which is harder than the cleaning one.
I'm using deburring wheel, which is harder than the cleaning one.
Attachments
Time to bring old thread back to life
If you have an air line available in your workshop, here's a nice air vac to have around. It's especially good for cleaning all those metal chips (after drilling) as they usually clogg the regular vacuum pipe. This one is very easy to clean and comes from http://www.yardstore.com/
If you have an air line available in your workshop, here's a nice air vac to have around. It's especially good for cleaning all those metal chips (after drilling) as they usually clogg the regular vacuum pipe. This one is very easy to clean and comes from http://www.yardstore.com/
Attachments
Do not use water as it will ruin the tip, the cold warm effect will decrease the surface on the tip and it cracks, use cloth from old jeans dry, if the tip get dirty clean it when it is cold with steel wool replace the surface guard with Multicore tip restorer trust me it works and the tip will always be fine.
Here is a few tools I find handy in my workshop. 🙂
http://24.70.80.252/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album35
Anthony
http://24.70.80.252/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album35
Anthony
Look's like the metallic equivalent of Norm's shop on "New Yankee Workshop"Brian Donaldson said:
oh well, my Grizzly mini-mill does just fine.
I share it with a friend of mine, he has a house in the country with 10 acres and a 5000 Sq' foot bldg that houses all the equipment. He put in a hanger a few years ago and we have been bldg a plane in thier.
Regards
Anthony
Regards
Anthony
you guys have some great gear!
I have an elaborate setup but its for business use also:
AMF 10ft x 1/4" 100 ton shear with cnc back guage
AMF 10ft x 3/8" 150 ton brake press
Tennison 4ft x 18 ga box and pan hand brake
Lincoln 300 amp high frequency welder
Hobart 300 amp high frequency welder
Miller 250 amp mig welder
cincinatti vertical mill with auto feed table
Dewalt 12" compound mitre saw with pneumatic clamp
Bosch 1/2" drill press
King horizontal bandsaw
25 HP ingersoll rand air compressor
12" table saw (German made...NICE!!)
Craftsman 10" radial arm saw
misc. electric power tools..blah blah
oh.....and my treasure....5ft x 10 ft x 1/2" work bench on a 4" x 3/8" square tube frame with 6 4" castors😀
DIRT®
I have an elaborate setup but its for business use also:
AMF 10ft x 1/4" 100 ton shear with cnc back guage
AMF 10ft x 3/8" 150 ton brake press
Tennison 4ft x 18 ga box and pan hand brake
Lincoln 300 amp high frequency welder
Hobart 300 amp high frequency welder
Miller 250 amp mig welder
cincinatti vertical mill with auto feed table
Dewalt 12" compound mitre saw with pneumatic clamp
Bosch 1/2" drill press
King horizontal bandsaw
25 HP ingersoll rand air compressor
12" table saw (German made...NICE!!)
Craftsman 10" radial arm saw
misc. electric power tools..blah blah
oh.....and my treasure....5ft x 10 ft x 1/2" work bench on a 4" x 3/8" square tube frame with 6 4" castors😀
DIRT®
Well, I just ran into a little problem using power tools.
I've got a big plexi sheet of 2.5mm thickness.
I need to cut 6 small sections out of it for a plexi box I want to make for a headphone amplifier.
Not the problem is that one of the parts is 56mm x 24mm. The tool I'm using is a gigantic saw which is about 4m by 4m. This thing is just crazy.
When I just the plexi and I'm at the end of the cut, the plexi jumps away and falls into the side next to the large cutting blade ending up inside the saw. Altough that isn't that much of a problem (I can get it out), the plexi has of course got a lot of scratches on it.
Any techniques on how to solve this 😉?
I've got a big plexi sheet of 2.5mm thickness.
I need to cut 6 small sections out of it for a plexi box I want to make for a headphone amplifier.
Not the problem is that one of the parts is 56mm x 24mm. The tool I'm using is a gigantic saw which is about 4m by 4m. This thing is just crazy.
When I just the plexi and I'm at the end of the cut, the plexi jumps away and falls into the side next to the large cutting blade ending up inside the saw. Altough that isn't that much of a problem (I can get it out), the plexi has of course got a lot of scratches on it.
Any techniques on how to solve this 😉?
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