I had to make some thick strong plexiglas joints a while back for my electrostatic speaker frame. I asked the advice of an old gent that I worked with. He pulled out a bottle of chloroform (also known as trichloromethane) and it worked wonders. The joints had to be perfectly flat, as chloroform runs like water, but the result was a super strong joint that was stronger than the plexiglas. We used a scrap piece to test this and it took over a week of smashing before it broke. I would trust my dog's life to it.
If the joint is not glass flat, however, bubbles could develop. Other than that it is very clear.
I don't know if chloroform is safer than trichloroethane, but it may help.
-Dan
If the joint is not glass flat, however, bubbles could develop. Other than that it is very clear.
I don't know if chloroform is safer than trichloroethane, but it may help.
-Dan
They used to use chloroform as an anasthetic back in the late 19th century, and perhaps into the 20th century. Stay ventilated and make sure that you don't leave the oven on or something before you start.
😴 
Erik
I don't think if chloroform or trichloroethane will glue perspex to the aluminium. They work only on perspex to perspex.
You're right. Chloroform was only good on plexiglas to plexiglas. But, this did make clean up a snap. Just wipe up the excess in a rag and knock out your unsuspecting buddy for a few minutes.
I guess I didn't understand the goal for the project. Good luck!
-Dan
I guess I didn't understand the goal for the project. Good luck!
-Dan
Hi folks!
I invested some of my hard earned money in a digital meat thermometer with an attachable probe (<15$). It can measure temperatures up to 120 deg. C. It has an temperature alarm wich can be set. It also has a count down timer I can use when making PCB's. Now I can get both the roast and the amp the right temperature!
I invested some of my hard earned money in a digital meat thermometer with an attachable probe (<15$). It can measure temperatures up to 120 deg. C. It has an temperature alarm wich can be set. It also has a count down timer I can use when making PCB's. Now I can get both the roast and the amp the right temperature!
I read somewhere that plexiglass cement could be made fromm 50% acetone and 50% glacial(100%) acetic acid. It smells nasty. Acetone is easy to find and glacial acetic acid is available at large photo stores. There is also 28% don't get that. I have not tried it, but have tried just acetone and that works, but is very slow. Acetic acid is the stuff in vinegar.
Darrell Harmon
Darrell Harmon
Here Ya go.....
I just did a quick search and came up with this....
TESTORS - Liquid Cement for Plastic - 1 oz. - Use for polystyrene, ABS, acetate, plexiglass, and many other plastics
http://www.a2zhobbies.com/Cement/Cement.html
It's from Testors, So You could/should be able to get it just about anywhere.
Tall Shadow
I just did a quick search and came up with this....
TESTORS - Liquid Cement for Plastic - 1 oz. - Use for polystyrene, ABS, acetate, plexiglass, and many other plastics
http://www.a2zhobbies.com/Cement/Cement.html
It's from Testors, So You could/should be able to get it just about anywhere.
Tall Shadow
Hi
Maybe I reinvented the wheel, but when cutting the driver holes in my sub with a sabresaw I found out that if grinded of a little of at the back of the blade, it was much easier the follow those curved lines. The grey areas in the pic below is what I grinded away. Try it! it makes a huge difference.
Keld
Maybe I reinvented the wheel, but when cutting the driver holes in my sub with a sabresaw I found out that if grinded of a little of at the back of the blade, it was much easier the follow those curved lines. The grey areas in the pic below is what I grinded away. Try it! it makes a huge difference.
Keld
Attachments
Keld said:
Here at Home Depot in the states, the sell blades that are exactly as the one you drew in the top of your picture. They don't cut straight lines as well, but for circles for speakers, they worked great for me.
--
Brian
Sometimes you need extention on a pot, yet a proper hardware is hard to obtain. Just recently I found out that 1/4" plastic tubing for water supply and 1/4" brass rod available from home hardware stores (HD) are perfect for that purpose. You don't even need screws, everything is tight fit.😉
Attachments
Need to add a groundplane, try this:
MMM Conductive Adhesive tape, #1181 -- used for EMI/RFI shielding, solders nicely. Allied (www.alliedelec.com) carries it.
MMM Conductive Adhesive tape, #1181 -- used for EMI/RFI shielding, solders nicely. Allied (www.alliedelec.com) carries it.
drill press
last year on my burthday i got a few tools al at once, i could not believe my eyes that my wife had gotten out and had bought all these things at the same time. She bought them at Harbor freight tools or something like that.. there was drill press (with key less chuck ) and i was really excited about the results. I thought i could not use this for pcb's cause i found out that the press only costed $ 49.99 plus tax (on sale = the black version!!! but i tell you, putting in a 1 mm drillbit is no problem and there is NO sjimmer at the end, also like most it has 12 speeds and a modest 1/3 hp motor but quiet as can be, sweet soft motor.
some other things included a handrouter like a Rotorzip spinoff, a real pro glue gun, metal shears and some more small items...
last year on my burthday i got a few tools al at once, i could not believe my eyes that my wife had gotten out and had bought all these things at the same time. She bought them at Harbor freight tools or something like that.. there was drill press (with key less chuck ) and i was really excited about the results. I thought i could not use this for pcb's cause i found out that the press only costed $ 49.99 plus tax (on sale = the black version!!! but i tell you, putting in a 1 mm drillbit is no problem and there is NO sjimmer at the end, also like most it has 12 speeds and a modest 1/3 hp motor but quiet as can be, sweet soft motor.
some other things included a handrouter like a Rotorzip spinoff, a real pro glue gun, metal shears and some more small items...
those drill presses
a drill press is a wonderful thing to have, I agree. When you get down to using very, very small drills an investment in a better chuck will probably be in order. You can browse through the Grizzly catalog online -- I am sure that there are more and better sources but it's quite comprehensive.
a drill press is a wonderful thing to have, I agree. When you get down to using very, very small drills an investment in a better chuck will probably be in order. You can browse through the Grizzly catalog online -- I am sure that there are more and better sources but it's quite comprehensive.
Close Up.....
The eye-piece lens assy from a camcorder and a bright light makes a very good close inspection tool, especially smd.
Eric.
The eye-piece lens assy from a camcorder and a bright light makes a very good close inspection tool, especially smd.
Eric.
Does anyone uses a table saw for cutting aluninium plates?
I have a table saw with the machine under it. With 32tct 140mm blade can I cut alu plates with 3mm thick?
Do you think it might be a bit dangerous?
I have a table saw with the machine under it. With 32tct 140mm blade can I cut alu plates with 3mm thick?
Do you think it might be a bit dangerous?
I remeber that Cyclotronguy was saying that he was using table saw that way. I don't think it's much danger in that, because of the way the saw cuts. Just try to feed it straight and wear thick leather gloves (at least the first time😉).
I do Pedro.
I've been cutting some plates about 5mm thick, with good success. You should definitely use a blade made for the purpose. The teeth profile is different than the ones made for other materials like wood. Of course, it's carbide-tipped.
I just stand to the side, wear goggles and gloves, and go slow so as not to jam the blade. Some guys at a store told me not to do this, but when I read the instructions for the blade I bought, it did indeed say for use with table saws. Blades are about $50-60 US.
I've been cutting some plates about 5mm thick, with good success. You should definitely use a blade made for the purpose. The teeth profile is different than the ones made for other materials like wood. Of course, it's carbide-tipped.
I just stand to the side, wear goggles and gloves, and go slow so as not to jam the blade. Some guys at a store told me not to do this, but when I read the instructions for the blade I bought, it did indeed say for use with table saws. Blades are about $50-60 US.
I'm plannig to buy a piranha 32TCT blade with 140mm diameter PN X13005(europeen PN).
What you think?
What you think?
PedroPO said:
Hi,
I have cut *25mm* thick aircraft plate (some kind of aluminium alloy) by hand on a quite small bandsaw with a fine blade.
As the brackets I was making needed to be almost a kidney shape, no conventional straight-cutting saw would have done.
It is quite slow progress, but I couldn't think of any better way to do what I wanted to do when I was making up some special brackets to fix some four pot 'AP Racing' brake calipers to my car hubs.
I also machined the steel hubs on a 'Buffalo' (very old) American pillar drill I had left to me in someone's will many years ago.
I set it up with a cheap milling vice on the drill table, and with a suitable end mill, made a good job of providing a new larger flat bearing surface on which to mount the brackets I had made.
As the car is good for 160 MPH, it seemed rather important to make sure it would stop quite well, too! 😱
I also made a 'steerable' satellite dish mounting entirely out of aluminium extrusions of different sections (with all stainless steel fixings/adjusters and stainless miniature ball races-overkill!) also with my bandsaw, and pillar drill.
It just shows, if you are careful and patient, just what can be done with some of these tools.
Regards,
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