Then do I really need to convert I2S SE signal to differential signal just to connect the USB/I2S module with the DAC within 8 inches?
I putting the converter out of the DAC temporary just because of I'm waiting new BIII SE and OTTO, the layout to be rearrange until all module arrived, not walking xxx backwards, please show some respect to DIYer willing to share. I'm post my work progress here just to appreciate to help from Domenico and sharing some of my joy. If not I will not put into plastic box and connector with cost under USD 4 dollar, just don't want to run it nude and damage the converter during the time before the boards arrive.
It's not fun to solder 8 wires each side, I can always put it next to the DAC with just 4 plain wire, but If I made a opening on the aluminium case will be irreversible!!
It's not fun to solder 8 wires each side, I can always put it next to the DAC with just 4 plain wire, but If I made a opening on the aluminium case will be irreversible!!
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use one of these for the panel and a short US cable from the panel to amanero. USB is far more robust to distance and has error correction, keep the cable USB as long as you can and get Amanero as close to the dac as possible, its so small you should be able to mount it directly on top of the dac.
haha, look, you want to take it as a lack of respect, thats all you i'm afraid, you are the one personalizing it, its a broad statement, not directed at anyone. its a bad decision, it should be avoided. if thats what you are doing then you are not even doing what I said, so dont be an idiot.
I mentioned a very specific case didnt I? are you doing that? NO, if you were it would be bad priorities, you do know what the phrase means yes? or is it just because it has the wprd *** you are offended? for this phrase it literally translates as coming at a problem from the wrong direction
haha, look, you want to take it as a lack of respect, thats all you i'm afraid, you are the one personalizing it, its a broad statement, not directed at anyone. its a bad decision, it should be avoided. if thats what you are doing then you are not even doing what I said, so dont be an idiot.
I mentioned a very specific case didnt I? are you doing that? NO, if you were it would be bad priorities, you do know what the phrase means yes? or is it just because it has the wprd *** you are offended? for this phrase it literally translates as coming at a problem from the wrong direction
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I am using a 50mhz crystal for the ESS9023, can I use Ian's reclocker board to reclock the I2S? Do I still need to feed the clock to the 9023?
Thanks
Thanks
During my waiting time I'm doing my own experiments to try out USB bus powered, Stabilized DC and battery powered before putting them into DAC case, it's better than let the board sitting in drawer and do nothing, that's my aim.
ahh did you look up the urban dictionary for that phrase? walking *** backwards? there is that meaning too haha but I didnt mean it quite like that 😀
as Telstar says, if you must, put the reg in another case, well unless you are powering 3.3v directly, even using the salas reg sense wiring I wouldnt do that with the reg in another case, but its really not that hard to make a quality reg small enough, put the raw DC supply and transformer in the other case.
use the salas reg with the case floor as the heatsink and put amanero directly on top of the regulator with the dac right next to it, but really unless you are using amanero to clock the dac master clock synchronously there is little point compromising a layout to feed it with a nice reg.
for creative mounting
use some of this
as Telstar says, if you must, put the reg in another case, well unless you are powering 3.3v directly, even using the salas reg sense wiring I wouldnt do that with the reg in another case, but its really not that hard to make a quality reg small enough, put the raw DC supply and transformer in the other case.
use the salas reg with the case floor as the heatsink and put amanero directly on top of the regulator with the dac right next to it, but really unless you are using amanero to clock the dac master clock synchronously there is little point compromising a layout to feed it with a nice reg.
for creative mounting
use some of this
Barely the usb interface alone fits in my DAC case (it's not a dyi one).
But I plan to use a short DC cable, shielded and decorated with ferrites, and some capacitance closer to the dc inputs on the Amanero board.
If you have other suggestions, they are welcome, but I can fit only those 3-pin replacement regulators.
For those of us with simple minds.😀, could some of you with working systems with the adapter in place, use something like Windows Paint to draw out a simple box diagram of what you have between the end of the USB feed cable - and the output of your DAC (feed to amp/preamp) ? Nothing like a schematic, but including wire/cable type labels.
That would be very helpful.
That would be very helpful.
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My RF Antenna
Here I reclocked the isolated I2S (by IL715) with isolated XO (by ISO7242), not perfect but better. Middle is the 1G 1:2 fanout buffer 38072A from PotatoSemi, flip flop 74AUC1G74 are shunt by LED at 5ma.
Here I reclocked the isolated I2S (by IL715) with isolated XO (by ISO7242), not perfect but better. Middle is the 1G 1:2 fanout buffer 38072A from PotatoSemi, flip flop 74AUC1G74 are shunt by LED at 5ma.
Attachments
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Yes, GB3 started, please fill in https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AmX4TyHWgSmNdE5laDJQNlA3UVBYaWlrczJwYS1EcXc#gid=0 to join the GB3 (30 now, we need another 30 before the GB will be completed).
qusp said,
"the point is, when dealing with high frequencies, each signal needs its own return close to it as possible, or it radiates HF noise.... fact, its got nothing to do with just making sure the devices have a ground connection between them. thats why each of the signals in the ethernet cable and each of the signals on the PCB have a return/ground to go with them.
at these high frequencies, the air presents a low impedance (thats why radio signals can travel for billions of KM through air and space), it doesnt really care that much if it has a cable to travel on or not, if it doesnt have a nearby wire to travel on, it'll just go its own way through the air to the nearest point (of its choosing) if need be.
it is not OK to run a single ground, I dont care what Amanero says (if he does indeed say that, that would be strange considering hes given a return per signal on the PCB as there should be) it will work that way, but its not how it should be done."
Thanks for explaining that connection. I was getting a random snap like noise that I didnt get when using the tereadac usb device. I rewired the Amanero with about 25mm of cat5 solid wire twisted tight and the noise is gone. I get very few dropouts now and the Buffalo III is set at the lowest(best jitter) settings. I am still using the usb for power but that will change soon. Thanks for taking the time to explain this connect and being truly helpful in your responses. It is hard to be helpful sometimes when everyone "knows" best.
"the point is, when dealing with high frequencies, each signal needs its own return close to it as possible, or it radiates HF noise.... fact, its got nothing to do with just making sure the devices have a ground connection between them. thats why each of the signals in the ethernet cable and each of the signals on the PCB have a return/ground to go with them.
at these high frequencies, the air presents a low impedance (thats why radio signals can travel for billions of KM through air and space), it doesnt really care that much if it has a cable to travel on or not, if it doesnt have a nearby wire to travel on, it'll just go its own way through the air to the nearest point (of its choosing) if need be.
it is not OK to run a single ground, I dont care what Amanero says (if he does indeed say that, that would be strange considering hes given a return per signal on the PCB as there should be) it will work that way, but its not how it should be done."
Thanks for explaining that connection. I was getting a random snap like noise that I didnt get when using the tereadac usb device. I rewired the Amanero with about 25mm of cat5 solid wire twisted tight and the noise is gone. I get very few dropouts now and the Buffalo III is set at the lowest(best jitter) settings. I am still using the usb for power but that will change soon. Thanks for taking the time to explain this connect and being truly helpful in your responses. It is hard to be helpful sometimes when everyone "knows" best.
not bad for an antenna =) still dunno about the use of leaded resistors like that for termination, still an antenna, but a neat little antenna 😉
can I ask why you have only connected one of the shields on the coax? or are the others grounded where I cant see it?
bikerboy: no worries glad to help
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I got some noise when initially connecting both side of the shields of MCLK, kind of lazy to troubleshoot so just do the single side.