You'll find information about the design here: https://planethifi.com/proac-response-dt8/#:~:text=The silk-made ProAc Dome tweeter is placed asymmetrically,between the Studio 148 and the Response D20.
The assumption was to connect two drivers with a slightly different sound character, but not to divide the band and not complicate the crossover
Ah thx. Funny approach with two completely different drivers. Pity there’s only an impedance measurement.
Yeah pity it does only have the impedance measurement.
The speakers are very good.
I chose these speaker over , B&W, PMC, Harbeth, Dali, Dynaudio, and many others at a similar price point.
Mind you I’m a musician of over 35 years , so my ears i would say are pretty good as well as my judge of natural sound.
i just figured maybe I could improve on them as well.
The speakers are very good.
I chose these speaker over , B&W, PMC, Harbeth, Dali, Dynaudio, and many others at a similar price point.
Mind you I’m a musician of over 35 years , so my ears i would say are pretty good as well as my judge of natural sound.
i just figured maybe I could improve on them as well.
I would at minimum give the parallel cap across the 1R5 series resistor a try with clip leads. I'd try 1.0 uF first and work your way up or down from there. Its a no risk proposition and very easy to undo. You may want to start with 2.2 uF just to get a good idea if you psychologically prefer the actual tweeters character with a more extreme taste of its behavior.
I good metal dome will always play cleaner and more articulate than a soft dome. Mind you thats coming from a guy who preferes larger soft domes. I do however LOVE the Audax TW025A28 when crossed higher, but it has a 100mm faceplate and probably will overshadow the midbass drivers.
For 1 st. order crossover (cap only) is completely all the same where that resistor is placed. In a serial connection, the order of the elements has no effect.
For a higher order crossowers, it’s not all the same, because there are also parallel impedances. If placed in front, resistor is mostly just a reduction in amplitude. If placed between the filter and the speaker, it affects the filter slope. But the damping is always there, because the energy is converted into heat in that resistor, wherever it is.
If the L-Pad is applied to the speaker and the impedance is maintained, the filter slope will not be affected too much. When the L-Pad is applied there is always a change in the impedance curve, more or less, because most speakers has no linear impedance and the resistors have.
When only a series resistor is applied in front of the speaker, the impedance shifts upwards by the value of that resistor. And that's what the filter sees.
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I was thinking first of all to change the resistor to something with a lower tolerance. its +-5%
maybe change out the electrolytic as well for a good poly with a small tolerance.
same with the other two caps.
i need to take a closer look at the crossover Prob unscrew it
was also thinking of making an external crossover to mess with in case I change anything else. So I can do stuff on the fly.
could also use the cab as a ‘ surrogate to add drivers to.
will be a good learning experience.
maybe change out the electrolytic as well for a good poly with a small tolerance.
same with the other two caps.
i need to take a closer look at the crossover Prob unscrew it
was also thinking of making an external crossover to mess with in case I change anything else. So I can do stuff on the fly.
could also use the cab as a ‘ surrogate to add drivers to.
will be a good learning experience.
because I suspect from measurements that one speaker is slightly louder than the other because of that
Changing the tolerance in either direction would have next to zero effect, whereas changing the resistor value would.
You have now changed the parameters, talking about a difference in tweeter level between the two speakers.
What about heeding the advice given under the original parameters?
What about heeding the advice given under the original parameters?
what parameters?
im looking to ’improve upon ‘ the given speaker
I never talked about raising the level of the tweeter.
improving on the quality of the highs yes
You will only know if you measure, not by blindly replacing. IME the resistors are always spot on (1% error or less), even when the stated tolerance was 5 or 10%.
Ralf
Is there any way to measure the frequency range of these speakers and the impedance? This way, I'm afraid we're not going anywhere.
So here's what I meant about maybe using an SB tweeter instead. The pic below compares Zaph's measurement of the 2604 and the spec sheet measurement for the Satori TW29R. I adjusted the level of the TW29R so they match at about 7kHz so you can clearly see the difference in SPL in the 'sparkle' zone above that. That increase in the quantity of the HF output could be exactly one of the things you are looking for.
I would expect there would be a need to slightly tweak the current xo values for the new tweeter but I couldn't know how exactly without accurate FR and impedance measurements for each tweeter and without knowing the current values on the tweeter filter network. Quality wise, you can look up 3rd party measurements of the HD and CSD for each tweeter and find that they are again more or less in the same ballpark although I have an expectation without having heard either one that the Satori is the slightly better tweeter. And just in case you didn't know, SB Acoustics/Satori drivers are designed by the same gentleman who used to do the work for ScanSpeak. If you wanted to play the game, you could possibly also try improving the quality of any new xo parts too. Or other tweeters that have a similar HF response to the Satori might appeal as well.
I would expect there would be a need to slightly tweak the current xo values for the new tweeter but I couldn't know how exactly without accurate FR and impedance measurements for each tweeter and without knowing the current values on the tweeter filter network. Quality wise, you can look up 3rd party measurements of the HD and CSD for each tweeter and find that they are again more or less in the same ballpark although I have an expectation without having heard either one that the Satori is the slightly better tweeter. And just in case you didn't know, SB Acoustics/Satori drivers are designed by the same gentleman who used to do the work for ScanSpeak. If you wanted to play the game, you could possibly also try improving the quality of any new xo parts too. Or other tweeters that have a similar HF response to the Satori might appeal as well.