You can absolutely hear give or take .5 dB in that frequency range. Our ears are very sensitive in that area, especially in an A/B scenario.
I'd try a good metal dome first as this will tighten up the midrange from more pistonic dome behavior up to and past 10k with a decent 25 - 30 mm tweeter. It will certainly sound more accurate than the 10k + breakup mode of a soft dome. The SB26SDAC is a very nice driver given how affordable it is but not very efficient. It may require reducing the series R by a good amount.
I'd try a good metal dome first as this will tighten up the midrange from more pistonic dome behavior up to and past 10k with a decent 25 - 30 mm tweeter. It will certainly sound more accurate than the 10k + breakup mode of a soft dome. The SB26SDAC is a very nice driver given how affordable it is but not very efficient. It may require reducing the series R by a good amount.
after giving it some thought I agree and decided a week ago that I’ll prob throw in a beryllium scan speak tweeter in there.
That's a big commitment and a risky one, but it could pay off if you mod the crossover correctly. It will definitely change the character of the speaker alot and may cause a significant contrast in character between tweeter and midbass. That low Qms type poly driver is known for its ultra smooth presentation at the expense of some low level detail retrieval. Its ultimately your money, but I would consider a cheaper titanium or aluminum alloy dome first. Don't discount the Scan Speak D2905-9500 soft dome. Its probably one of my all time favorite smaller soft domes and would compliment the midbass driver character very well.
the Qms of the 3004/6640 isn’t that different than the 2604/8300 which is in there currently.
you think that is a big difference?
i thought of that as well.
much appreciated feedback man
A similar effect is likely to be obtained if each capacitor is bridged by 0.22uF. There is also a some deviation of the capacitor capacity in the crossover. Let's say + -5% at 4.7uF is + -0.235uF.
In addition to all this, there are speaker impedance deviations, resistors tollerance and deviations in the frequency response of the speakers.
It rarely happens that two identical speakers come out of the factory. Only when a matched pair is sold.
Some can hear that, some can't. Or they don't care much. 😊
In addition to all this, there are speaker impedance deviations, resistors tollerance and deviations in the frequency response of the speakers.
It rarely happens that two identical speakers come out of the factory. Only when a matched pair is sold.
Some can hear that, some can't. Or they don't care much. 😊
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I was referring to the Qms difference between the midbass and tweeter, but in essence thats what you're stating here in a roundabout way. I absolutely believe you will hear a substantial difference between these 2 drivers, to the point it will completely change the vibe of the speaker. I would at least try the cap bypass across the series R first and just see if what you hear is the direction you want to go in. As i stated before, the 2604 isn't that great of a tweeter extreme up top compared to other similar priced soft domes. It sounds wonky to my ears the way it images and how it deals with sharp HF transients like cymbals and triangles.
I get what you're saying and there are absolutely exceptions to those rules, but I tend to notice a trend between the better hard and soft domes. To my ears, the better SS and Seas soft domes can really image well and expose nuances in recordings, but generally speaking over a wider frequency range, the better hard domes stay more neutral, composed and coherent, sometimes sounding boring but that can be due to the lack of mild HF breakup. There are of course those metal domes that sound huge and detailed thanks to multiple bands of HF breakup, just like some soft domes exhibit.
Unless you listen to pure mono recordings and your signal chain is tightly channel matched, you will likely not hear a difference between 2 like drivers which aren't factory matched. Some brands are worse than others, but the better SS and Seas drivers are fairly consistent to one another. The average listening room will impart a bigger effect on channel balance than the typical production tolerances between the same model drivers from similar production dates,
Funny, because I was thinking about the 9800 alu.dome as well for the op. Any thougth about it VS the 9500 ?
I still think this can be solved with existing tweeters, just to detect all the problems first.
The question is, what's wrong? In the original posts it was about retrieving some more 'sparkle'. After 9 pages we still are clueless about the X-over part values. OP wants to spend big on beryllium. I say: bypass the 1R5 resistor with a 33µF MKP cap, that will give some 1,5dB extra around 10kHz.
Yes, better for him to spend on a DVM or a cheap capacitance meter...30 to 50 in EU,BP, HKS, USD.
why not sell the speakers you dont really like enough. the used market make it really easy to sell what you dont like and buy something you like
I've first suggested this and been saying this since the beginning of this thread. Minimal risk and good potential for a quick solution to a subjective problem.
i never said anything was wrong.
and pardon but yeah I still havent taken the xo off to see the exact layout and values.
I’ll probably get that done this weekend. My bad
Get some caps in the meantime! Don't break the bank, a pair of these will do fine. Get wires with alligator clips on the go.