'Upgrading’ my tweeters (can I do this?)

There is no faster transient response tweeter. I think you don't really know what you want. It can be a brighter sound, or you are sensitive to diffraction effects, and in this case no matter what tweeter you drop in the final effect will be the same as it is dictates by the geometry.
I think you can easily test if you like better the speaker with a brighter tweeter: check if really the resistor is connected between the +in and the midlle cap in the photo above, if it is then connect a wire with alligator clips between the +in and the same cap, in this way you are paralleling the resistor and having a total of 0R more or less (totally reversible, no soldering required). If you like the sound more than before you can unsolder the resistor and play with different ones as said before.

Ralf

PS: you don't need to quote all the post just above yours. It makes the reading clumsier, doesn't add nothing (and is against the forum rules)
 
closed account
Joined 2022
Pardon but are you saying that all drivers have the same transient response?
or that transient response doesn’t exist?

listen I didn’t come here to be talked to rudely.

i asked for some advice and if someone has it that’s fine.
if I’m wrong about something that’s fine as well.
being rude , is not fine.

i know exactly what I am looking for thank you
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
I would first bridge the 1R5 with a piece of wire. If it is a resistor in line with the tweeter, check with an instrument. If not, you must not bridge it.

If there are too many high frequencies, which I doubt, try bridging 1R5 with capacitors, 2,2uF, 1,5uF, some cheap polyester 100V for test, later take some better polypropylene.

Replace bipolar electrolyte (small blue one) with 100V polyester of the same capacity.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
According to the picture the crossower looks something like this. That should be checked of course.
 

Attachments

  • Network.jpg
    Network.jpg
    84.7 KB · Views: 60
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
I asked you to "extract" the crossover. That way you can photograph both sides. We can then trace the circuit and be sure of the position of the resistor.

However, you seem to be hell bent on changing the tweeter, even after all the good advice given. I hope I am not rude in suggesting you pursue the effect of altering the attenuation of the existing tweeter as a first line of attack.

I've read that the tweeter in this LS has narrow vertical dispersion, requiring a low seating/listening position as hinted at earlier by Rayma. The LS is also said to have a "forward" sound, by which I assume it is midrange prominent and unrevealing of the contribution made by the tweeter. Please consider that changing the tweeter would not be guaranteed to bring about a noticeable improvement.

Edit: I have just seen the above interpretation of the XO circuit.
 
diyAudio Member
Joined 2007
I think he is saying that all tweeters are similar in their transient response and there is no disrespect in the answer.
It's like saying there isn't fast or slow bass.
I was told decades ago that most tweeters are set for a "Q" of around 1for maximum power handling, not that makes much difference.
 
That is what I wrote, but the OP clearly is set to the idea that changing the tweeter with a more expensive one will give him the sound he is after. But he isn't able to determine what he really wants with the audiophile jargon "more agile" and sparkle. I was simply suggesting to bridge the resistor after checking it is really the first element in the tweeter crossover. The picture posted suggest that the crossover is the one in post #90 but it is not 100% clear.

Ralf
 
I didn't mean that there can't be a resistor after the crossover, but only that looking at the photo posted it seems logical that it is before the crossover. For me the diagram in post #90 seems logically correct. I still wait a photo of the other side of the crossover to be sure.

Ralf
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user