'Upgrading’ my tweeters (can I do this?)

[Moondog55]

That bypass small cap does work to a degree and easy to do; well worthwhile; but as the value is small it might pay to use a really good capacitor, reinforce the upgrade anticipation factor.

 

[Galu]

Like this? https://www.soundimports.eu/en/claritycap-mr470nh400vdc.html

 

[tone?]

That's well worth experimenting with.

Can you extract the crossover, tone?, and photograph it for us? We can show you where that padding resistor is if you are uncertain of its location.

thanks man!

I’ll try and do it in the next few days.

i would assume taking out the lower driver would be the best way to it?

it’s the Proac DT8 and is MTM configuration. It’s bottom ported.

 

[Galu]

I'd tackle the lower driver first.

 

[Moondog55]

If your very lucky the XO will be plate mounted to the big terminal plate. I'd be removing the terminal plate first

 

[Galu]

I can't see any screws on the terminal plate, Moondog.

 

[Moondog55]

Might be friction fit and jelly glue then.
So taking a woofer out might be the only way to find the XO

 

[tone?]

Might be friction fit and jelly glue then.
So taking a woofer out might be the only way to find the XO

yeah was gonna say there is no back panel to take out and no screws on the binding post panel.
I’ll start with the bottom woofer

 

[Moondog55]

I have a feeling that this works better if the padding resistor is the last element in the XO chain, I seem to have misplaced both Weems and the CookBook, so no longer sure

 

[tone?]

I have a feeling that this works better if the padding resistor is the last element in the XO chain, I seem to have misplaced both Weems and the CookBook, so no longer sure

was watching this on where to put the Lpad.

seems like the second and third option is best

 

[profiguy]

I can't see any screws on the terminal plate, Moondog.

The trim ring around the plate may be friction fit with a bit of hot glue holding it and the retaining screws could be hidden by that. I would remove the woofer first to verify before you potentially tear up the terminal board trim.

 

[markbakk]

hey man,

have you had any experience with switching the faceplates so I don’t have to drill holes?
it does look like they may be interchangeable from the three inner screws.

thanks

Don’t exchange the faceplates unless the geometry (just around the dome) is exactly equal. Which it’s not, obviously. The smooth top end of the revelator could be ruined by adjusting the little horn these tweeters have. What is so difficult about recessing the tweeter a bit further, it’s quite standard woodworking (assuming you have access to a router)?

 

[Galu]

I have a feeling that this works better if the padding resistor is the last element in the XO chain

I read that if the series padding resistor is placed after the crossover components, the tweeter level will tilt downwards as frequency increases.

So that would be the scenario in which a bypass capacitor would be beneficial.

 

[wolf_teeth]

was watching this on where to put the Lpad.

seems like the second and third option is best

That vid is rife with errors.

I would also condone a small cap across the series resistor if there is one, but fore or aft position is likely to still have benefit. I've used them in both physical locations. Usually smaller cap on first resistor and larger on aft due to the induced tilt.

 

[tone?]

Don’t exchange the faceplates unless the geometry (just around the dome) is exactly equal. Which it’s not, obviously. The smooth top end of the revelator could be ruined by adjusting the little horn these tweeters have. What is so difficult about recessing the tweeter a bit further, it’s quite standard woodworking (assuming you have access to a router)?

yeah I figured that would be the case. Thanks man!

 

[tone?]

Well here is the crossover

 

[tone?]

That's well worth experimenting with.

Can you extract the crossover, tone?, and photograph it for us? We can show you where that padding resistor is if you are uncertain of its location.

crossover pics above

 

[tone?]

Don’t exchange the faceplates unless the geometry (just around the dome) is exactly equal. Which it’s not, obviously. The smooth top end of the revelator could be ruined by adjusting the little horn these tweeters have. What is so difficult about recessing the tweeter a bit further, it’s quite standard woodworking (assuming you have access to a router)?

Crossover pics above

 

[giralfino]

Well here is the crossover

We all meant to have it traced, or at least to have a photo of both sides. However, the crossover is so simple that it seems it consist of a 2nd order electrical order network for the woofers and a 3rd order network for the tweeter, with a resistor before it. The resistor should be logically before the crossover, but it is not easy to trace the connections on the photo, a look on the other side should reveal this easily. In this case it provides the required attenuation, and you can easily swap it with a lower value one, for example 1R, 0R56 or a simple wire for 0R. This way the tweeter will sound brighter.

Ralf

 

[tone?]

We all meant to have it traced, or at least to have a photo of both sides. However, the crossover is so simple that it seems it consist of a 2nd order electrical order network for the woofers and a 3rd order network for the tweeter, with a resistor before it. The resistor should be logically before the crossover, but it is not easy to trace the connections on the photo, a look on the other side should reveal this easily. In this case it provides the required attenuation, and you can easily swap it with a lower value one, for example 1R, 0R56 or a simple wire for 0R. This way the tweeter will sound brighter.

Ralf

besides making it a touch ‘ brighter’ ( and I mean a touch) I wanted the tweeter to have a faster transient response
why I was hoping the Revelator tweeter with its coated dome and neodymium magnets would give me this.

does that make sense?

and thank you so much for replying !