Seems Proac has addressed their missing sparkle with a ribbon tweeter in later models, and that the Brits can't even buy food since they voted themselves off the island.
New strategies:
A) more class A from your amp
B) new DAC or front end
C) new speaker kit with ring dome tweeter
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c.../uluwatu-sb-acoustics-tower-speaker-kit-pair/
or
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...s/sb-acoustics-arya-2.5-way-speaker-kit-pair/
There are no Hershey bars in the British Isles... 
Oops! I tell a lie: https://www.amazon.co.uk/hershey-bars/s?k=hershey+bars
Oops! I tell a lie: https://www.amazon.co.uk/hershey-bars/s?k=hershey+bars
On the other hand, can eating chocolate help prevent hearing loss!
https://www.soundhearingnow.com/hea...hat helps prevent cardiovascular inflammation.
https://www.soundhearingnow.com/hea...hat helps prevent cardiovascular inflammation.
yeah since I’m a total newbie I wouldn’t like to change anything drastically to the crossover and the speaker doesn’t sound like a Proac anymore. If that makes sense.
you think in the specific speaker they did tone shaping of the freq response for the tweeter?
thanks
Whatever you change on your speakers they're gona sound like different speakers so what's the goal here?
Have you tried listening directly on the tweeter axis to check the balance then?
Raise the entire cabinet up if necessary.
Well, you can try putting a 0.5uf cap (in parallel) with the series padding resistor to the tweeter. There has to be one given the bass-mid driver will never be as efficient as the HF. You could experiment with values from 1uf (most HF shelf boost) down to maybe just 0.22uf (minimal boost). Should be easy to find this resistor, usually in front of the HP section right off the input terminals. Its an easy mod to undo if you dont like it.
hey man,
have you had any experience with switching the faceplates so I don’t have to drill holes?
it does look like they may be interchangeable from the three inner screws.
thanks
i did both of those things. And yeah it does help.
to be honest I really like the way the speakers sound. Or else I wouldn’t have bought them in the first place.
but if I could improve on them , then why not?
that was my thinking and I think many on here think the same way.
im of course not knowledgeable. But I have to start somewhere.
thanks man !
Well the Peerless/Tymphany version drivers have slightly different physical specs than the Scan Speak tweeters and you will have to do your own research on that. For example, the Peerless XT25TG30 ring tweeter has slightly different screw hole locations that the Scan Speak version, which also share face plates with other models, so you have to do your homework on that to be sure. The other issue can be cutouts for input terminals, which also can have different locations. Its best to consult the spec sheets to be sure.
I would seriously consider trying the shelf eq trick firet with the existing stock tweeter and see if you are satisfied with it. There ks little risk and you'll still retain the overall voicing of the speaker short of some upper treble boost you're looking for to get the extra sparkle past 10k.
That's well worth experimenting with.
Can you extract the crossover, tone?, and photograph it for us? We can show you where that padding resistor is if you are uncertain of its location.