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Universal shuntregulator, "Toolereg" NS-10 PCB-GB.

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cetoole said:

1. I have posted 5v and 3.3v versions of the shunt reg, using a LED for the voltage reference. Just for you though, here it is again: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v323/cetoole/PCB Layouts/discreteshuntreg33v.png
Great, I thought that only the 5V was posted.

cetoole said:

2. How much heatsinking can you provide? Honestly, I dunno what the limits are, I havnt simulated or built above 100mA.
I figured as much, just thought I would ask.

cetoole said:
3. Only if you are a madman, and I mean that in the best possible way. The current draw in a HTPC is so high as to make linear supplies of any sort impractical, and a shunt regulator would be much worse, especially since a computer isnt a constant load. You thought Papa used big heatsinks to keep his stuff cool? Now, if you wanted, you could selectively power items, such as the soundcard, from a separate supply.

The sound card was my main concern. How do I do such a thing?

Thanks,
Rodent
 
I changed R5 to 10K and everything works fine. Thanks to Andrew for spotting that little mistake. I have hooked up the Toolereg/D1 I/V stage and everything sounds just great. There is no noise or any other nasties to be heard.

🙂
 
Hello,

I got some updated quotes yesterday from the
PCB fab shop. The prices have leveled off.
Current price is $4.20CAD in quantity of 1000.
I have verified that the quoted price includes PCB
scoring.

I also inquired about leaded finish. They can do
leaded tin, but prefer non-leaded since practically
all their work is RoHS. They are also closed from
Dec 24 to Jan 4. This gives us time to finalize the
PCB designs, collect payment, and fire off the
order in the new year.

Cheers,
Dennis
 
I will be using WBT 4% silver solder, will this affect my joints? If so, I vote against it. If there are benefits for 4% silver and tinned PCBs, what are they? If it is perfect for everyone then it should be a given. However, I would rather not if it is not "perfect" for everyone and make it universal. It would be easier to tin your boards as you do the joints than to de-solder and clean tham bfore you ever do a joint.
 
khundude said:
I will be using WBT 4% silver solder, will this affect my joints? If so, I vote against it. If there are benefits for 4% silver and tinned PCBs, what are they? If it is perfect for everyone then it should be a given. However, I would rather not if it is not "perfect" for everyone and make it universal. It would be easier to tin your boards as you do the joints than to de-solder and clean tham bfore you ever do a joint.


As far as I know your WBT is a tin based solder with 4% silver content and no lead in its formulation and I see no reason why it could not solder well on a tin / lead substrate. Many components are still “tinned” with tin / lead and I’m sure you are not having any problems with them so it shouldn’t be an issue here.

If someone knows better please chip in.
🙂
 
solder

I dont like silver solder much - or lead-free

Cheap lead/tin mix is fine for me. My ears cannot tell the difference between solder types.

what's the word on the NS-10? is it going to to be created along with the Toolereg? Will I need two to make a stereo set?
 
Re: solder

mithomas said:
I dont like silver solder much - or lead-free

Cheap lead/tin mix is fine for me. My ears cannot tell the difference between solder types.

what's the word on the NS-10? is it going to to be created along with the Toolereg? Will I need two to make a stereo set?

Manu is working on the Gerber's for the NS10 and they should be ready any time soon.

Both the Tooleregs and NS10 are going to production at the same time and will be delivered together on the same envelope to people asking for both boards.

One NS10 board will contain two PCB's to make a stereo set.

PS, Manu, thought we had talked this before that we would have scored boards, two PCB's per board since they are quite small and will be cheaper to produce. Could you explain us from your last post please?

Cheers,
 
apassgear said:
No big deal, Manu… can happen to anyone of us 😉


Never happened to me :clown:

Regarding the solder; the WBT I have, is leaded and flows easily to a perfect shiny finish. In fact, it is the best I tried yet and flows at a low temp. All the leadfree stuff I tried, was pretty much a pain to work with. It is grainy and doesnt flow decently, at all. Desoldering is even worse, as was mentioned above. I guess the heat must be turned up conciderably, to work with leadfree, using a dedicated leadfree soldertip, but the heat puts your components at risk....

BTW, my sympathy goes out to Dennis, who is gonna pack and send out all those boards😱

🙂
 
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