I am still gathering the parts. I had to fix my car first 🙂
Question 1: Why 317 and 337? I have some KA7812 and KA7912 in the right package and I am planning to use them instead.
Question 2: How about ADA4627-1BRZ? AD says that is recommended for new design instead AD8610...
Question 1: Why 317 and 337? I have some KA7812 and KA7912 in the right package and I am planning to use them instead.
Question 2: How about ADA4627-1BRZ? AD says that is recommended for new design instead AD8610...
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Hmm. My regs are in TO252 (Dpak). Your design is for SOT223...
My question was more about - why did you go for the adjustable ones in the first place? Is there an advantage that I am not aware of?
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/dwg/TO/TO252A03.pdf
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/products/analog/pdf/sot223_dim.pdf
My question was more about - why did you go for the adjustable ones in the first place? Is there an advantage that I am not aware of?
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/dwg/TO/TO252A03.pdf
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/products/analog/pdf/sot223_dim.pdf
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Looking in the data shets I see now the differences...
Although the KA7912AE is very close, I will use the LM317.
Thanks!
Although the KA7912AE is very close, I will use the LM317.
Thanks!
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Started soldering mine today, unfortunately our daughter woke up in the middle and wanted some of daddys attension 🙁 But SMD isn't so hard once you have tried a couple of times 😉
Tried the same vendor as you UrSv for casing so we will se if something shows up in the mail 🙂 in a week or two 😀
Tried the same vendor as you UrSv for casing so we will se if something shows up in the mail 🙂 in a week or two 😀
Good luck. Mine is playing all day at work and working just fine. I'm really happy with it. I had to take down the sensitivity a bit, which I actually did this weekend, so now I have more useful range.
icewall, be aware that the chassis doesn't come with standoffs (have some to hand) and the front panel goes on with Allen (hex) screws. I didn't have a bit that fit (needs ~2.5mm) so I dug out my Imperial Allen key set and used a 3/32" key which came close to stripping out the screw head.
OK, thanks for that info, dfidler 🙂
Luckily I'm fully loaded with Allenbits so they will not post any problem I'm sure and I have seen some standoffs somewhere in my workarea 😉 Just have to find them!
Luckily I'm fully loaded with Allenbits so they will not post any problem I'm sure and I have seen some standoffs somewhere in my workarea 😉 Just have to find them!
And for the odd chance that your standoffs are absent in the goodie bag and you would have to place an order somewhere then just let me know...
Yeah, that's what I thought too... until it came time to dig up the set and find one missing. 🙂
Ordered enclosures on the 25, got them today 😀
No Allenbits missing 🙂
And the standoffs were exactly where I remembered seeing them last time 😉
Got some solidering time from my wife so only the "big" parts are left for som other night, now I have to babysit 😉
No Allenbits missing 🙂
And the standoffs were exactly where I remembered seeing them last time 😉
Got some solidering time from my wife so only the "big" parts are left for som other night, now I have to babysit 😉
Now, mine is also playing 🙂 An easy build despite SMD:s thanks to a layout it is easy to solder 🙂
Had no trouble finding standoffs so everything is mounted but I'm waiting for the volume control so I have only tested it with my SB Duet, sound is crisp, clear and very detailed.
Had no trouble finding standoffs so everything is mounted but I'm waiting for the volume control so I have only tested it with my SB Duet, sound is crisp, clear and very detailed.
Good news. 
Maybe the news will travel to Head-Fi but those guys are scared of SMD designs. It takes real experts for that kind of soldering 😉
Maybe the news will travel to Head-Fi but those guys are scared of SMD designs. It takes real experts for that kind of soldering 😉
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Actually, the design of the boards is so good that I don't see any trouble with fault finding (if needed!) and with very good documentation things are even easier. SMD:s are not the complete PITA:s as I remembered them to be a couple of years ago 😉
by the way P-A, are there any boards/kit left? If so I'm thinking of one more for the office or so....
Dont fear SMD:s
by the way P-A, are there any boards/kit left? If so I'm thinking of one more for the office or so....
Dont fear SMD:s
Can Vishay DF04S-E3/45 (DF04S-E3/45 Vishay Semiconductors Bridge Rectifiers) be used instead of DBLS105G? What would be any other substibutes?
q on substitute parts
Notes: replaces the post above. I timed out while editing the above one...
Hi:
I work through the BOM, and a number of parts are not even listed at Mouser. Will the following substitutes work? Possible substitutes are:
Notes: replaces the post above. I timed out while editing the above one...
Hi:
I work through the BOM, and a number of parts are not even listed at Mouser. Will the following substitutes work? Possible substitutes are:
- 3M 929647-04-36-I for SL1.025.36Z (929647-04-36-I 3M Electronic Solutions Division Headers & Wire Housings)
- Nichicon LKS1V222MESZ for MCLPR35V228M22X25 (LKS1V222MESZ Nichicon Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - Snap In)
- Vishay DF04S-E3/45 for DBLS105G (DF04S-E3/45 Vishay Semiconductors Bridge Rectifiers)
- Phoenix 1935190 for Wago 256-405 (1935190 Phoenix Contact Fixed Terminal Blocks)
- TI LM317DCYRG3 for LM317AEMP (LM317DCYRG3 Texas Instruments Linear Regulators - Standard)
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