with an 18 inch up to 300hz you can only put it in a flat baffle because of problems with resonances
I use a tube behind it for deeper lows but above 100Hz there are resonances
I use a tube behind it for deeper lows but above 100Hz there are resonances
Yes, it's easy with small woofers, but many open baffles have 15 inch to horn mid/tweeter crossed at 700-1000 hz. When I try 300 or higher it just sounds awfull
with an 18 inch up to 300hz you can only put it in a flat baffle because of problems with resonances
I use a tube behind it for deeper lows but above 100Hz there are resonances
thanks guys for your insights, i had been wondering why my 21" in flat baffle can only sounds good when i set hpf 80Hz at maximum. many suggestion says to lift it up to 300Hz but it never sound right to me. because i'm using 5" fullrange hence adding 12" woofer to fill 80-320Hz is very usefull
OBSP open-baffle-speaker-project - forum.zelfbouwaudio.nl
B&C 18SW115-8
Seas Excel W22
Scanspeak 10F-4424G00
Mundorf 17D2.2
temporary Inuke 6000 dsp for lows
minidsp OpenDRC-DA8
UCD400/180HXR
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with an 18 inch up to 300hz you can only put it in a flat baffle because of problems with resonances
I use a tube behind it for deeper lows but above 100Hz there are resonances
Great article! Although I don't read Dutch, I enjoyed the images. 🙂
How did you calculate the length of the tube behind the woofer? I have a pair of 18 inch woofers I'd like to set up like that.
the tube was 42cm, but now it is 30cm
I had trouble with resonances
crossovers are now at
110Hz
1000Hz brickwall
4000hz brickwall
minidsp opendrc da8 is great, phasecorrection with rephase is great too
the last frequencies at the low end I correct in APO EQ on my computer
snappy sound, really nice
I had trouble with resonances
crossovers are now at
110Hz
1000Hz brickwall
4000hz brickwall
minidsp opendrc da8 is great, phasecorrection with rephase is great too
the last frequencies at the low end I correct in APO EQ on my computer
snappy sound, really nice
the 42 cm tube was damped,
the 30 cm undamped is a good improvement
today I put some felt damping indside,
I still have to make a measurements to see the difference
the 30 cm undamped is a good improvement
today I put some felt damping indside,
I still have to make a measurements to see the difference
Ok. By dampening I mean stuff the tube entirely with filling. This will decrease sound from back and increase sound from front. The figure of eight will change. In my room this is a good thing. But our rooms are all different, so there is no right or wrong
I wonder what the effect of a cone opening to the back wall would have vs. the cylinder (tube.) Do you think that might reduce your unwanted resonances?
compliments.OBSP open-baffle-speaker-project - forum.zelfbouwaudio.nl
B&C 18SW115-8
Seas Excel W22
Scanspeak 10F-4424G00
Mundorf 17D2.2
temporary Inuke 6000 dsp for lows
minidsp OpenDRC-DA8
UCD400/180HXR
I do not see well, are they simple wires that support the hanging speakers?
Replace with elastic rope, get elastic suspension and vibration reduction.
improves 3d and better resolves the plot of music.
If you want more precise indications for which type of elastic to use send me a pm.
The dipole is magic!
...If you want more precise indications for which type of elastic to use send me a pm.
Why don't you share the type of elastic with the readers of this thread???
Of course drivers need to vibrate some to function...Probably the magnet mass works to offer enough inertia to offset this? Bass drivers might actually move if hung on too resilient cord? Which is probably not a good thhing?Just a thought..
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...Bass drivers might actually move if hung on too resilient cord? Which is probably not a good thing...
That's exactly what I was thinking with regard to Newton's Third Law. I would think a very lively mounting would tend to degrade the bass.
Speaking of vibration damping: Butyl tape is fantastic! Not for suspending speaker drivers, but for almost everything else 😉 It sticks to practically anything, it stays sticky forever and it has very nice damping characteristics. I use it instead of heat glue when fixing/damping crossover components for example. Much better! And it's cheap.
the size of the elastic cord is related to the weight of the speaker.Why don't you share the type of elastic with the readers of this thread???
in general, you need to obtain a 50% stretch.
the suspended object must float.
the vibrations to be attenuated are those transmitted by the cabinet.Of course drivers need to vibrate some to function...Probably the magnet mass works to offer enough inertia to offset this? Bass drivers might actually move if hung on too resilient cord? Which is probably not a good thhing?Just a thought..
the frame is small and light, it is not enough to avoid vibrations.
Prodotti » Lavori Custom » Accessori » Sospensioni elastiche per driver acuti - Clinamenaudio
I believe in mounting drivers by their magnet, such that the baffle isn’t also a mounting surface ... greatly reduces vibration effects.
So far I have magnet mounted my tangband fullrange, it’s baffle no longer vibrates with the fullrange. Will be doing woofers next.
So far I have magnet mounted my tangband fullrange, it’s baffle no longer vibrates with the fullrange. Will be doing woofers next.
...Butyl tape is fantastic! ... It sticks to practically anything, it stays sticky forever and it has very nice damping characteristics. I use it instead of heat glue when fixing/damping crossover components for example...
That's why I love this place! Shared knowledge like this is invaluable. Now I can ditch the messy glue gun. 🙂
I believe in mounting drivers by their magnet, such that the baffle isn’t also a mounting surface ... greatly reduces vibration effects...
Another interesting idea worth trying. 😀
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