High Efficiency OB
Hi,
Here is my humble OB setup in a 12'x20' room. Speakers are spread 8 feet apart.
A run down of the connections:
1) HP NX5000 Laptop WinXP into Foobar2000
2) M2Tech usb/ BNC converter
3) 12 feet 75 ohms cable
4) DCX2496 modified to accept BNC direct input into the CS8420
5) DCX Reclocked with Tentlabs VCXO, dedicated Linear PSU for all stages, DAC connected to Lundahl 1517 6 channel output transformer balanced to unbalanced converter
6) 6 Channel preamp PGA2310
7) Bass amp using 4 channel of the 6 channels Rotel RB976 modified with 30KuF PSU caps and bypass internal volume control
8) Mid Channel amp using Modified Audion Sterling 6550C Triode
9) Tweet amp using modified 6P1P pentode SE amp
10) 2 woofers Visaton BGS40 in push pull on both sides
11) Mid range using Visaton B200 series connection
12) Tweeter Fountek Neocd2.0 Ribbons series with a rear firing Audax High Eff super tweet
Speakers are pulled 6.5 Feet from the front wall for best soundstaging depth and bass power.
Seating position is 4 feet from the rear wall.
Drivers are time aligned at first using the mic but then fine tuned by ear.
Equalization is highly necessary to remove OB peaks that are irritating. I use a sine wave generator from my laptop to slowly sweep and then apply notch in the DCX to cut the peaks. Retune the driver time alignment and speaker position if there is a suck out.
Hi,
Here is my humble OB setup in a 12'x20' room. Speakers are spread 8 feet apart.
A run down of the connections:
1) HP NX5000 Laptop WinXP into Foobar2000
2) M2Tech usb/ BNC converter
3) 12 feet 75 ohms cable
4) DCX2496 modified to accept BNC direct input into the CS8420
5) DCX Reclocked with Tentlabs VCXO, dedicated Linear PSU for all stages, DAC connected to Lundahl 1517 6 channel output transformer balanced to unbalanced converter
6) 6 Channel preamp PGA2310
7) Bass amp using 4 channel of the 6 channels Rotel RB976 modified with 30KuF PSU caps and bypass internal volume control
8) Mid Channel amp using Modified Audion Sterling 6550C Triode
9) Tweet amp using modified 6P1P pentode SE amp
10) 2 woofers Visaton BGS40 in push pull on both sides
11) Mid range using Visaton B200 series connection
12) Tweeter Fountek Neocd2.0 Ribbons series with a rear firing Audax High Eff super tweet
Speakers are pulled 6.5 Feet from the front wall for best soundstaging depth and bass power.
Seating position is 4 feet from the rear wall.
Drivers are time aligned at first using the mic but then fine tuned by ear.
Equalization is highly necessary to remove OB peaks that are irritating. I use a sine wave generator from my laptop to slowly sweep and then apply notch in the DCX to cut the peaks. Retune the driver time alignment and speaker position if there is a suck out.
Attachments
Very Cool Randy! Love the color.
Thank you.. after a few days of going back and forth on color.. and even after the painted asked me if I was sure..lol
when I picked them up he told me that he wouldn't have them painted any other color..
WoW, very impressive, what bass drivers did you use?
Thank you!!!
Dynaudio MW172's
Thank you.. after a few days of going back and forth on color.. and even after the painted asked me if I was sure..lol
when I picked them up he told me that he wouldn't have them painted any other color..
They look sick!!!!
very nice!!!!
Matt
Wow, I'm more impressed by the room treatment!
Are they cardboards? Nicely done and very clever! I bet they are very effective
Thank you
Yes they are cardboards and they work much better once my floor was carpetted.
They look sick!!!!
very nice!!!!
Matt
Thanks Matt!!!
Some veneering done tonight and more tomorrow B)
Here's my dipole line arrays and damped u-frame line array bass pieces (both could use more room behind them). Set is fully active.
XT1086s are the most recent upgrade, Beyma CP380Ms will accompany them hopefully tomorrow or on Friday. Before CD horns I used one front tweeter with one ambient tweeter firing to the roof.
XT1086s are the most recent upgrade, Beyma CP380Ms will accompany them hopefully tomorrow or on Friday. Before CD horns I used one front tweeter with one ambient tweeter firing to the roof.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Legis, that looks impressive! What were your design considerations?
Thanks! Answer: finesse with authority . Longer answer:
I like dipole radation pattern especially in the midrange, it gives good dimensionality and paints the music with pictures = realistic sound stage. Line arrays tend to push this feature even further by adding height and size to the sound (vocalist stands on a stage rather than is kneeled in front of the listener) and by giving life-like dynamic response.
Baffles are easy and economical to construct, which is also an aspect that cannot be disregarded.
Also, I'm a big fan of da SLAM; imo drums should sound and feel like drums. Big cone area complemets the illusion by adding the kinesthetic component to listening experience (which unfourtunately usually means also house rattling, which tends to rather spoil the illusion and experience ).
Dipole bass works well in the current apartment (mainly articulates fast transients better than monopoles) and also, with given reserve, extends to the bottom octaves (-3dB @ ~15Hz) with equalization.
One main goal was also to reduce thd% to non-existent levels at all listening volumes. With multiple HQ drivers that worked out quite good. CD horns and compression drivers finalize this goal. My old tweets, like almost all existing non- compression drivers, kneel at high listening volumes.
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Are those woofers 18" ? Beyma?
18 incers, yes.
I have per side 2x BMS 18N860 at the top and 2x BMS 18S430v2 at the bottom, 8 woofers total. They are good pick for active dipole woofers since they have low ventilation and suspension related noise, high excursion and quite low Fs (and low inductance, thd and imd, which are all-round virtues). For passive dipole woofers one might want some woofers that have higher qts.
Very impressive Legis. Are all of the Peerless midwoofers playing the same FR or did you use the top and bottom drivers as a .5 BSC compensator? My research on this type of array suggests a better integration to the HF device in that configuration.
Thanks, and yes, they all play the same FR. You gave me some thoughts though, I have not yet read about this BSC compensation woofer system. I presume that in this model the top end and bottom woofer's FR is limited between ~100Hz and 300-400Hz and their polarity reversed(?).
I don't have to worry so much about BSC since I can eq the room response to flat easily, but this BSC compensation woofer system will be on my to-do list once I get another dsp (dcx2496) with which I can control more channels (not enough motivation to try on passive filter ).
Btw. Beyma's compression drivers arrived this morning. Busy day coming...
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Some veneering done tonight and more tomorrow B)
Holy cow Randy, these things are looking cool!
That's the exact color I plan to paint my '63 Impala
NO baffle
Hey Randy!!
you gave me this idea!
now they're ready.
in steel, pretty heavy.
there is a Fostex 305 for the bass
and a 103 for the rest.
the 206 on some pics is not connected anymore.
THEY SOUND INCREDIBLE!!!!!
I drive them with a 1.5 Watt SE tube amp.
Not the huge one on the pics.
the 103 has to move into the ringt for the 206. I have some new rings made this week.
I'm just totally amazed by the sound!!
Hey Randy!!
you gave me this idea!
now they're ready.
in steel, pretty heavy.
there is a Fostex 305 for the bass
and a 103 for the rest.
the 206 on some pics is not connected anymore.
THEY SOUND INCREDIBLE!!!!!
I drive them with a 1.5 Watt SE tube amp.
Not the huge one on the pics.
the 103 has to move into the ringt for the 206. I have some new rings made this week.
I'm just totally amazed by the sound!!
Attachments
TO FREAKING COOL!!!!!
I love it... it's art and just the way I like it....
hopefully you also found out the boxes and baffles are useless
I love it... it's art and just the way I like it....
hopefully you also found out the boxes and baffles are useless
Hey Randy!!
you gave me this idea!
now they're ready.
in steel, pretty heavy.
there is a Fostex 305 for the bass
and a 103 for the rest.
the 206 on some pics is not connected anymore.
THEY SOUND INCREDIBLE!!!!!
I drive them with a 1.5 Watt SE tube amp.
Not the huge one on the pics.
the 103 has to move into the ringt for the 206. I have some new rings made this week.
I'm just totally amazed by the sound!!
What kind of tube is that in the background. That looks crazy-big.
So the FE103 sounds better here than 206? Maybe better sensitivity match.
The tubes are Telefunken RS607 triode.
about as big as they get.
It runs SE driven by a 6EM7. I thought I'd build an amp with the biggest tube available.
There is still the GM100 to try.
TIME MACHINES AND TUBE AMPS
have a look at my blog....
as for the FE206... don't know. I chose it because they'd match up pretty nicely on paper.
But then again... on paper the no baffles don't work either..
Just try it out, the sound is amazing.
Randy convinced me quickly to make a pair.
And since he already used wood, I thought brute steel would be the way to go.
I'll let the rust in the garden for a while, (without the drivers) I just love the the color of rusted irons and steel..
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