remove the blinking is better.
also, i am already implementing a character selector like that :
View attachment 910257
U8g2 setColorMode(2) and then fill a box around the char selected.
a monospace font is useful there
just an idea
Ok this is done in this way and indeed much better, super fast to change characters, no more blinking routine.
I also optimized the double click timings and now it is also better to go up in the menu.
Then Stones I solved your second encoder bug, I will prepare a binary for you to try and let me know if you still have the problem (you should not
)I am really polishing everything now as it is quite clean I believe, will send to few person for beta testing.
Then I need to check how it is on the VFD after removing the blinking.
Revisiting this, but in Salas' schematic, the equivalent resistors to R4, R6, R104 and R106 are 51R, not 270R as shown in the UGS Salas schematic and BOM. I haven't built a SIM yet, but your SIM shows 51R for these positions. Would those value changes result in what redjr is seeing?
Also, from previous SMD circuit builds, check all your resistors via ohmmeter for shorts underneath. I had a 0805 resistor shorted underneath (solder bridge) which was not visible under magnification. I wish you would have used 0805 for these instead of the 0603
Would you mind sharing your SIM Eric?
Not according to sim.
Also verify if the LEDS are soldered in the appropriate directions.Also, from previous SMD circuit builds, check all your resistors via ohmmeter for shorts underneath. I had a 0805 resistor shorted underneath (solder bridge) which was not visible under magnification. I wish you would have used 0805 for these instead of the 0603
Sure - nothing secret. Here is my .asc file. Let me know if you have any trouble with it.
Yes no difference. I just did it in order to minimize the numbers of differents parts.
Not exactly an AC source. It is just an added small AC value over the DC value.
This was a quick shortcut for me to verify if any issue from input ripple.
Yes Eric, just tonight I could solve the issue. After failing to find a logical failure, I decided to re-solder the chips on controller card. There were a few chips with excessive solder paste stuck underneath, may be that was the source of the issue. Finally I could get a clean sound, what a relief...
Thank you very much for your interest and concern.
Regards,
Umit
Just to report some progress :
Psu ready to be housed.
DB15 M-F cable to connect the power supply.
Installed "RF" shield for the front controller.
Slotted top/bottom cover.
Still missing the buttons (but i have already drawn them, plus a nifty spring mechanism to keep them solid against the fron panel in order to avoid any rattling)
And also the whole anodization on milled parts are missing. At work we are changing our supply chain and found new anodizer that must be tested before full trust. but the first parts we received are great, so i think i hav to wait no more for that.
Everything is not without concerns :
1- Have anyone tested the Shunt regulators against thermal tracking ? I have found that the output voltage can shift a lot (~2v) from cold to hot. I remember that is quite normal by some extent. but i don't recall such a great span on my Salas-original-PTH-version ultraBibs... maybe this one (the one i have implemented is very close, to not say the same, as the one that Eric made) with smd packages have different nature.
2- For whom has UGS6. Still investigating, but at the time of writing, seems that the module is not suitable for a Se-To-Bal conversion. In such scenario the output is not perfectly symmetrical nor equi-impedenced. Works GREAT with bal-To-bal use... but mabe is not reccomended for such a preamp. I am trying to implement the v4, still better than the v3, but has all the feature needed for a full-featured pre-amp like this. To be clear, i am not in search of some support, just to notify that behaviour for anybody are thinking of following this route.
Happy building !
Psu ready to be housed.
DB15 M-F cable to connect the power supply.
Installed "RF" shield for the front controller.
Slotted top/bottom cover.
Still missing the buttons (but i have already drawn them, plus a nifty spring mechanism to keep them solid against the fron panel in order to avoid any rattling)
And also the whole anodization on milled parts are missing. At work we are changing our supply chain and found new anodizer that must be tested before full trust. but the first parts we received are great, so i think i hav to wait no more for that.
Everything is not without concerns :
1- Have anyone tested the Shunt regulators against thermal tracking ? I have found that the output voltage can shift a lot (~2v) from cold to hot. I remember that is quite normal by some extent. but i don't recall such a great span on my Salas-original-PTH-version ultraBibs... maybe this one (the one i have implemented is very close, to not say the same, as the one that Eric made) with smd packages have different nature.
2- For whom has UGS6. Still investigating, but at the time of writing, seems that the module is not suitable for a Se-To-Bal conversion. In such scenario the output is not perfectly symmetrical nor equi-impedenced. Works GREAT with bal-To-bal use... but mabe is not reccomended for such a preamp. I am trying to implement the v4, still better than the v3, but has all the feature needed for a full-featured pre-amp like this. To be clear, i am not in search of some support, just to notify that behaviour for anybody are thinking of following this route.
Happy building !
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Hi gionag
You really don't have to have a spring mechanism for the buttons.
I ordered a package of different lenghts of tactile switches from Ali-E.
It just of matter of selecting the the right lenght of the switches
My buttons are made of chromed plastic, yours will be even better, I presume solid alu. ?
Never had any problems with mine
You really don't have to have a spring mechanism for the buttons.
I ordered a package of different lenghts of tactile switches from Ali-E.
It just of matter of selecting the the right lenght of the switches
My buttons are made of chromed plastic, yours will be even better, I presume solid alu. ?
Never had any problems with mine
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Very well done, Alex...... Thumbs up.... and thanks for all the hard work
Amazing work!
Just a quick question: what have you used for window in front of the OLED displays ?