reins said:
I believe the output stage has a gain 5 itself, with the input stage providing another 4.
so that'd give you 100mVoffset at the output if you drive the comparator directly, ... while 50mV is considered the standard, there's a pretty good chance you can actually get away with 100mV offset, call is yours to make.
Thanks for clearing up the question for me, wasn't sure.
Ucd 180 SupplyHG
Finished my amp. Just a couple of hours, but not so much honor: all the stuff is from Hypex. 😀
Before I wire up the amp I'd like to check the connections shown in the picture attached: somebody may help?
If it is all right, then Ucd kits from Hypex are suitable for absolute beginners.
Finished my amp. Just a couple of hours, but not so much honor: all the stuff is from Hypex. 😀
Before I wire up the amp I'd like to check the connections shown in the picture attached: somebody may help?
If it is all right, then Ucd kits from Hypex are suitable for absolute beginners.
Attachments
Congratulations 🙂
Sorry, I don't know Hypex' PS.
Two questions:
1) What are those wires that go from PS PCB to speakers binding posts? Some form of protection?
2) Are you planning to put some heatsink on those T-bone blue pieces?
Good luck!
M
Sorry, I don't know Hypex' PS.
Two questions:
1) What are those wires that go from PS PCB to speakers binding posts? Some form of protection?
2) Are you planning to put some heatsink on those T-bone blue pieces?
Good luck!
M
maxlorenz said:
Congratulations mean I can risk the power up?
Hypex SupplyHG has just 6 wires going out. I tested it and is ok: +46 (yellow) -46 (orange) and grounds (blue).
The wires from speakers binding posts are a DC protection for speakers (the circuit is in the PS).
The two Ucd are going to be set vertically and the blue T screwed to the chassis.
Many thanks
Thomas
Difficult to see if ps outputs go to correct amp pins, but looks OK to me.
Provided + goes to +, - to -, and gnd to gnd, go for it.
Neat job.
Provided + goes to +, - to -, and gnd to gnd, go for it.
Neat job.
Well...errrr...If you followed Hypex's instructions and there's no obvious short-circuits 😀
*Try to fix those BP's as accidental contact can happend.
*Do you have a variac on hand?
*Maybe you can try it with a 100W light bulb in series with Power cord to reduce VAC and do the checking 😉 .
*Can you power-on/power off fast enough? 😉 .
*Measure DC offset at speakers BP's with and without signal.
*Do not attach speakers until sure of safety.
*Use cheap speakers first no matter DC blocking capacity.
*Don't do anything if you're tired or sleepy!
Congratulazione was meant in general, for your courage to build your own. I consider myself still a beginner and UCD180 was my first amp also 🙂
I hope my advices do not cause any harm. 🙁
Ciao
M
Re: Ucd 180 SupplyHG
Small tip;
Remove the black protection material on bottom of the UcD180. This is for ESD and mechanical protection of the board. It will possible damage the UcD180 if you switch it ON without removing this!
Jan-Peter
thomaseliot said:
Small tip;
Remove the black protection material on bottom of the UcD180. This is for ESD and mechanical protection of the board. It will possible damage the UcD180 if you switch it ON without removing this!
Jan-Peter
Re: Re: Ucd 180 SupplyHG
Thanks for the tip. Of course I should have tested the amps with these 😱. If this is your blessing, I'm going to power up the amps today.
I prepared a bill of materials and a small picture gallery on "how to put an Hypex Ucd in a box" (it was to show what I made in case something goes wrong). I'll show, you if you want, when finished.
It would be nice to offer cables, led, XLR for chassis and speaker binding posts, with screws only: so no soldering at all would be needed and really anyone could build these amps. A good way to have a lot of new apprentice diyers, I think.
Ciao
Thomas
Jan-Peter said:
Thanks for the tip. Of course I should have tested the amps with these 😱. If this is your blessing, I'm going to power up the amps today.
I prepared a bill of materials and a small picture gallery on "how to put an Hypex Ucd in a box" (it was to show what I made in case something goes wrong). I'll show, you if you want, when finished.
It would be nice to offer cables, led, XLR for chassis and speaker binding posts, with screws only: so no soldering at all would be needed and really anyone could build these amps. A good way to have a lot of new apprentice diyers, I think.
Ciao
Thomas
UDC180 2 ohm loaded
Hi everybody!
I'm a brand new member of this forum and a happy owner of a couple of UDC180 (blue heatsink).
I'd like to know if this module is 2 ohm loadable and what is the max +-Vsupply in this condition.
Does anybody already try somethig like that?
Thanks.
Hi everybody!
I'm a brand new member of this forum and a happy owner of a couple of UDC180 (blue heatsink).
I'd like to know if this module is 2 ohm loadable and what is the max +-Vsupply in this condition.
Does anybody already try somethig like that?
Thanks.
Hi Stipa, welcome to the forum.
Current protection on the 180 is at 10amps.
10 amps at a 2 ohm load gives you power rails of V=IR, for 20Vdc rails.
Your power will then be 200W, a 2 ohm load will be fine with it.
Current protection on the 180 is at 10amps.
10 amps at a 2 ohm load gives you power rails of V=IR, for 20Vdc rails.
Your power will then be 200W, a 2 ohm load will be fine with it.
Hi ClassD:
But, will they power-on with only 20VDC rails???
I thought more than 24VDC were needed.
Regards
M
But, will they power-on with only 20VDC rails???
I thought more than 24VDC were needed.
Regards
M
Haven't tried so I can't say. I'm guessing it would. Really you'd probably want to aim for around 24 anyway. Ohms law is a bit too ideal.
Well, I searched Hypex' manual: it recommends minimum +/- 30VDC rails for "optimal sonic performance".
Mmmh...
I would trust them.
Why don't you ask JP?
Regards
M
Mmmh...
I would trust them.
Why don't you ask JP?
Regards
M
That's for "optimal sonic".... not to say it won't work down to ~18 volts easily? I don't know what the lower threshold is.
Re: UDC180 2 ohm loaded
This is no problem you can use the normal voltage, if you like. The amp is short circuit protected, so if you ask to much current it will shut down for protection.
Because it's Class-D you don't have to reduce the voltage when you use a lower impedance.....😉
Jan-Peter
Stipa said:
This is no problem you can use the normal voltage, if you like. The amp is short circuit protected, so if you ask to much current it will shut down for protection.
Because it's Class-D you don't have to reduce the voltage when you use a lower impedance.....😉
Jan-Peter
UCD 180 and SupplyHG from Hypex: success!
Powered up the two Ucd 180, SupplyHg and transformer from Hypex. Success at first attempt 😀.
Total time needed for an absolute beginner (like me) is three hours. Though I've spent the most of the time soldering two couples of signal cables: unbalanced to balanced for the test from a CD player and balanced to balanced to connect the amp to my DAC later.
The question now is: if me, diy beginner, have already built the best amp, what I'm going to do now? 😡
Oh, yes, the enclosure.
Regards
Thomas
Powered up the two Ucd 180, SupplyHg and transformer from Hypex. Success at first attempt 😀.
Total time needed for an absolute beginner (like me) is three hours. Though I've spent the most of the time soldering two couples of signal cables: unbalanced to balanced for the test from a CD player and balanced to balanced to connect the amp to my DAC later.
The question now is: if me, diy beginner, have already built the best amp, what I'm going to do now? 😡
Oh, yes, the enclosure.
Regards
Thomas
Attachments
Thomas,
very nice. I need to get around to building my UCD180.
Everyone, what's the standard way of putting the standoffs into blank aluminum chassis? Do you glue the standoffs to the bottom of the case? Or do you thread the standoff through the case from the bottom?
Also, what do you use to punch out RCA size holes? I've heard Greenlee punch mentioned a long time ago. Can you get a clean enough hole with a drill bit?
very nice. I need to get around to building my UCD180.
Everyone, what's the standard way of putting the standoffs into blank aluminum chassis? Do you glue the standoffs to the bottom of the case? Or do you thread the standoff through the case from the bottom?
Also, what do you use to punch out RCA size holes? I've heard Greenlee punch mentioned a long time ago. Can you get a clean enough hole with a drill bit?
Re: UCD 180 and SupplyHG from Hypex: success!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=58873&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
Have you checked out the UCD hotrodding thread . . .thomaseliot said:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=58873&perpage=10&pagenumber=1
Bravo, Thomas 🙂
a) Listen to music (without wanting to jump and mod it 😀 )
b) Build another pair and activelly biamp (or triamp) your speakers (save if you have fullrangers 😀 ).
c) Upgrade/mod your other gear.
d) Build other well regarded amps.
There are even more options...
Enjoy them!
M
a) Listen to music (without wanting to jump and mod it 😀 )
b) Build another pair and activelly biamp (or triamp) your speakers (save if you have fullrangers 😀 ).
c) Upgrade/mod your other gear.
d) Build other well regarded amps.
There are even more options...
Enjoy them!
M