Guess..
Thanks for the guesstimate of the circuit layout and for focusing on the problem in hand.
The question is, to where should each of the crossover board's coloured wires be connected, i.e., which wire goes to which driver and to which of its terminals?
We may be close to figuring out that physical aspect of the wiring.
Red/Black is amp in.
Purple ST+
Pink T+
Green M+
Brown W+
Blue/White/Grey/Yellow -
In addition to this, polarities should be considered. As a starting point, perhaps consider reversing the mid.. but spend some time listening before deciding.
Purple ST+
Pink T+
Green M+
Brown W+
Blue/White/Grey/Yellow -
In addition to this, polarities should be considered. As a starting point, perhaps consider reversing the mid.. but spend some time listening before deciding.
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Very good. I'm taking the film capacitor to be 1u5F. I guessed the 12u was 50u. The inductors are not known.
Thanks everyone for your help. What do I do with the wires that have been connected together eg the 2 from the coles and the 2 white ones in the box
Quick er to write
But not quicker to read as an attachment. Please type directly into your post.
I would be inclined to remove all the wires apart from the bundle of coloured wires soldered to the circuit board. Then I would extend each of those coloured wires to its appropriate location as indicated in post #42. You will require to identify the positive terminal (usually marked red or with a + sign) on each driver. Further modifications may be necessary upon actually listening to the rewired speakers.
P.S. To avoid confusion, I suggest you refer to the drivers by their initial letters as follows:
ST (super tweeter)
T (tweeter)
M (midrange)
W (woofer)
'What's for sale for £1000s in HiFi shops now' viewpoint
When iwas selling brand new IMF TLS80s they were under a grand CAD. I think the 3-way KEF parst kit was under $300,

dave
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Not to make too much of a finer point if it, but where is the source of a Pro9TL MK1 and MK2 distinction?
The B110/T27 design was published in HFNR&R, not making any reference to the PRO9 name, whereas to my best of knowledge the "real" PRO9TL, bearing that title, was published in Practical Hifi.
Both plans posted in post #8.
It is true that the line with the B110/T27 did not have the Pro9TL name attached to the article. But the designs are so close you have toconsider it the prototype. And if the XOis good likely the "KEF” better of the “Peerless" version..
dave
This is why I collect vintage. My brother has sll Naim, its nice but the £3000 speakers he had are less than £500. To be honest there is nothing to them that warrants the £3000 price tag. Technology has improved but for who? The listener or the sales waffle you hear promoting their new awsum products!
Hifi that exists naw after 40/50 years and sounding great is what gets me going, and I have a few. Nothing compares only trying to imitate and introduce "the new and improved" mk2 versions. I've got or had them and will never sell. .
Hifi that exists naw after 40/50 years and sounding great is what gets me going, and I have a few. Nothing compares only trying to imitate and introduce "the new and improved" mk2 versions. I've got or had them and will never sell. .
Which is this one that I haveBoth plans posted in post #8.
It is true that the line with the B110/T27 did not have the Pro9TL name attached to the article. But the designs are so close you have toconsider it the prototype. And if the XOis good likely the "KEF” better of the “Peerless" version..
dave
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Its like to me a Jaguar E type, Citrion DS, Maclaren F1 etc..There is new and modern but not the 1st time got it right types..This is why I collect vintage. My brother has sll Naim, its nice but the £3000 speakers he had are less than £500. To be honest there is nothing to them that warrants the £3000 price tag. Technology has improved but for who? The listener or the sales waffle you hear promoting their new awsum products!
Hifi that exists naw after 40/50 years and sounding great is what gets me going, and I have a few. Nothing compares only trying to imitate and introduce "the new and improved" mk2 versions. I've got or had them and will never sell. .
Should I ignore the wires that have been connected together up in the ST/T/M area, I believe there is 16ohm ST/4ohm T and 8ohm mid?View attachment 1309709
But not quicker to read as an attachment. Please type directly into your post.
I would be inclined to remove all the wires apart from the bundle of coloured wires soldered to the circuit board. Then I would extend each of those coloured wires to its appropriate location as indicated in post #42. You will require to identify the positive terminal (usually marked red or with a + sign) on each driver. Further modifications may be necessary upon actually listening to the rewired speakers.
P.S. To avoid confusion, I suggest you refer to the drivers by their initial letters as follows:
ST (super tweeter)
T (tweeter)
M (midrange)
W (woofer)
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- Transmission line speakers I have never seen before. Need help to figure every thing out