hii.. im test this TPA3255 board with 42V, but why the sound/volume still loud 2xTPA3116(with 24V)?? im test both with volume potentiometer at 50%..
the different is so far..
from datasheet TPA3255(with 42V) should be greater than TPA3116(with 24V)..
or i miss something??
The amp PSU voltage has nothing to do with the loudness, it sets max power output. Look at the intrinsic gain of the amps.
TPA3255 without PFFB mod is 22dB. TPA3116 standard gain varies between 20dB and 36dB depending on resistors set. If set to typical 20dB, they will have similar apparent loudness for same input level assuming clipping has not been reached on one of the amps first.
TPA3255 without PFFB mod is 22dB. TPA3116 standard gain varies between 20dB and 36dB depending on resistors set. If set to typical 20dB, they will have similar apparent loudness for same input level assuming clipping has not been reached on one of the amps first.
oopss.. my bad knowledge, since its my first TPA3255..
i think when using combo TPA3255 + 42V/48V automaticaly more loud..
im test using Power Supply Mean Well SP-480-48, another problem is "noise/hiss/buzz" when i move my PC Mouse..
when using another Power Supply 24V there is no problem..
i can decided my Mean Well SP-480-48 causing noise/hiss problem..
do U have some trick for my MW Power Supply??
my TPA3116 is XH-M542 (Mono TPA3116), maybe gain 36dB as usual cheap board.. i cant check gain/resistor value, because it under heatsink and gluing with white thermal paste, hard to remove..
but is good board, less noise vs another cheap TPA3116..
i think when using combo TPA3255 + 42V/48V automaticaly more loud..
im test using Power Supply Mean Well SP-480-48, another problem is "noise/hiss/buzz" when i move my PC Mouse..
when using another Power Supply 24V there is no problem..
i can decided my Mean Well SP-480-48 causing noise/hiss problem..
do U have some trick for my MW Power Supply??
my TPA3116 is XH-M542 (Mono TPA3116), maybe gain 36dB as usual cheap board.. i cant check gain/resistor value, because it under heatsink and gluing with white thermal paste, hard to remove..
but is good board, less noise vs another cheap TPA3116..
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hello,
I am planning to build a few small TPA2355 amp boards to combine into a multichannel amp. probably 4 boards max for 8 channel.
I want to leave the individual stereo boards with the minimum components possible so that they share whatever can be shared from a separate common power/control board.
I am not sure if my approach is possible or if there is anything intrinsically wrong with it. I would appreciate any advice.
All components will be the same than the evaluation board unless otherwise stated
What i plan to share between all 4 boards are:
All the three low voltage regulators:
LM5010ASD 15V buck regulator: 1A enough for all boards
LM2940IMP 12V LDO
TLV1117 3.3V LDO
The reset control IC. This is the one i have more doubts about. Will it work properly if i divert the (single) output to the 4 boards?
additional question:
do you guys think i will need to set the boards in master/slave mode or doesn't really matter?
Thank you for your help!
I am planning to build a few small TPA2355 amp boards to combine into a multichannel amp. probably 4 boards max for 8 channel.
I want to leave the individual stereo boards with the minimum components possible so that they share whatever can be shared from a separate common power/control board.
I am not sure if my approach is possible or if there is anything intrinsically wrong with it. I would appreciate any advice.
All components will be the same than the evaluation board unless otherwise stated
What i plan to share between all 4 boards are:
All the three low voltage regulators:
LM5010ASD 15V buck regulator: 1A enough for all boards
LM2940IMP 12V LDO
TLV1117 3.3V LDO
The reset control IC. This is the one i have more doubts about. Will it work properly if i divert the (single) output to the 4 boards?
additional question:
do you guys think i will need to set the boards in master/slave mode or doesn't really matter?
Thank you for your help!
Should I get the 3eaudio 260-2-29A? I have only a single ended dac/preamp. Has anyone tested does it perform any good with single ended and should the extra components be installed so as the manual states? On some topics I have found that people have had problems with it single ended. Is anyone using it successfully like that? Other possibilities are the old chinese tpa3255 board with upgraded components but no idea is it still any good or then some other new chinese variant. I have that older 3255 already, but have not upgraded the components. It is the model that can't stand high voltages.
I have one operating in single ended mode and it works well. I made the mods for single ended, I had some trouble with ground loop in my setup but got that sorted in the end. I can recommend it, it’s one of the quietest class D amplifier boards I’ve come across - no discernible hiss.
I build this reset circuit but it is not working as advertised, on power-on reset pin 3 and 1 are instantly connected but they do not release...I bought this TPA3255 Board.
View attachment 1240285
Four capacitors beside heatsink are series-connected 4700uF/25V.
So a total of 4350uF capacitance is embedded.
It's not a good idea from the point of view ESR.
By the way, another complaint...
The speaker output makes a pop noise during Power-up and Power-down. So I developed an automatic reset control circuit.
This can eliminate pop sound without manual reset switch control operations.
View attachment 1240288
Hope this will help you easier.
CyberPIt
Could it be that I am running it at 32 volts?
What else could I have done wrong?
Please help!
Member
Joined 2018
Hello hoka-San,
I guess the 32-volts will not matter.
I'm wondering if the C1 might be short-connected.
Please check out the voltage of C1. It will be raised slightly and then reach near the supply voltage after the power-on.
Finally, the collector of Q1 voltage will go down to the GND level...
CyberPit
I guess the 32-volts will not matter.
I'm wondering if the C1 might be short-connected.
Please check out the voltage of C1. It will be raised slightly and then reach near the supply voltage after the power-on.
Finally, the collector of Q1 voltage will go down to the GND level...
CyberPit
Hi
Recently purchased SAMP-100 V1.4.
It has no speaker bump on switch on, so some improvements are made.
The sound is amazing with Magnepan SMG-C SE.
I take some pictures to compare it with older versions.
Will do more hearing tests and get back with result.
Recently purchased SAMP-100 V1.4.
It has no speaker bump on switch on, so some improvements are made.
The sound is amazing with Magnepan SMG-C SE.
I take some pictures to compare it with older versions.
Will do more hearing tests and get back with result.
Attachments
I have one of this board hooked up to 500W linear power system. This board sounds incredible given its price point. Go ahead and give it the best wires, connectors, opamps and PS, it is so transparent it will show each level of qualities bare right in front of you.
Attachments
if board space is an issue you may consider a 3pin switching regulator to supply 12V: https://www.digikey.de/en/product-highlight/r/recom-power/r78-series
not thinking about GVDD but thinking about BST pins, i think standard regulation would not work there?
for GVDD i found nice smd solution that uses very little space and tested extensively working ok over some years now, even in small car amplifier on summer temperatures. some TI-s TPS7A4001.
for GVDD i found nice smd solution that uses very little space and tested extensively working ok over some years now, even in small car amplifier on summer temperatures. some TI-s TPS7A4001.