You can view a snapshot here: TPA3116D2 Boards - diyAudio
Hope its ok to post and hope it helps others.
Hi
Does anyone have any experience with this board: TPA3116 Class-D Power Amplifier Board Support STEREO - 50Wx2 or MONO PBTL - 100W | eBay
I am looking for a board that is compact, easy to convert to PBTL mono, and work off 26vdc.
Does anyone have any experience with this board: TPA3116 Class-D Power Amplifier Board Support STEREO - 50Wx2 or MONO PBTL - 100W | eBay
I am looking for a board that is compact, easy to convert to PBTL mono, and work off 26vdc.
The chip might work with 26 volt, it might not, overvoltage protection is said to be 27V (-10%), iow 24.4V overvoltageprotection tripping is considered normal for tpa3116/18. I have these pcb's in pbtl, bought them without parts so can't comment on finished ampboards.
This is Hiamp's board. Apparently, all parts used are genuine brand name components. The circuit is the same as the TI evaluation board, so should work fine. Strange enough I do not believe this board has been discussed and commented on in this thread.
Hope it helps
I'm running two of these boards in a dual mono setup and they sound great. He built me a custom kit with the connecting cable, rca's , and a pot. I'm running both of them off of an Astron 12v power supply. I've been using this setup for about a year now without any issues.
Thanks for the vote of confidence.
I have bought two boards, one for stereo, one for mono pbtl use.
I have bought two boards, one for stereo, one for mono pbtl use.
My Xmas Amp (TPA3118D2 PBTL postage stamps)
Well it took me a bit longer than tomorrow to hook them up...
I put all four monoblocks into a case for a 4 channel active amp to be used with a miniDSP. The case is a cardboard Xmas chocolate box with magnetic snap lid, hence I will call this the "Xmas Amp". I am using RG-174 coax from RCA's to the amp, 18 ga stranded wires for power, and doubled-up solid core 22 ga copper for connection from amp out to binding posts. For output connection, I have some nice 5-way banana binding posts, and 4x RCA inputs, and room inside the box leftover for the miniDSP later.
Here are some photos. The amp even has an SMT red LED power on indicator.
I hooked up a 5ohm 50w dummy load resistor, used a 24v SMPS, and clocked 17.36 volts as measured with a Fluke 101. The resistors were smokin' hot and outgassing something serious stinky smells (I could not touch them), the amp chip was hot and not comfortable to touch, the inductors (surprise), were barely warm. I ran for 5 minutes with 1kHz and the thermal shutoff never tripped. So it's a bonafide 60w into 5ohm amp.
I listened to it and was *REALLY* pleasantly surprised. In stock form, it sounds excellent. Great bass authority driving my 6.5in woofers in a 2-way (GR Research XL-S). Highs are clear and with good resolution and transparency. Ran through about 10 of my typical test tracks and they all sound good.
In summary, this amp is an excellent value, sounds great and is tiny. I highly recommend it.
My order of these cute amps just arrived from Aliexpress. Nicely packaged in individual antistatic sealed bag and then bubble wrap.
Thanks to Bughemeiste for the tip.
TPA3118 PBTL mono digital amplifier board 1X60W 12V 24V POWER AMP-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
They look very nicely made, pretty hiqh quality in appearance and layout is tight. Can't get small ceramic decoupler cap or bootstraps any closer. Looks to have a power LED even. Those inductors are pretty small though.
It is printed "Sanwu" on back so I guess we call this Sanwu Blue PBTL.
It is tiny and I can see how these are ideal for integrating internally inside a small speaker. You could stick it anywhere.
I expect them to sound great. 🙂
Hook up tomorrow...
Well it took me a bit longer than tomorrow to hook them up...
I put all four monoblocks into a case for a 4 channel active amp to be used with a miniDSP. The case is a cardboard Xmas chocolate box with magnetic snap lid, hence I will call this the "Xmas Amp". I am using RG-174 coax from RCA's to the amp, 18 ga stranded wires for power, and doubled-up solid core 22 ga copper for connection from amp out to binding posts. For output connection, I have some nice 5-way banana binding posts, and 4x RCA inputs, and room inside the box leftover for the miniDSP later.
Here are some photos. The amp even has an SMT red LED power on indicator.
I hooked up a 5ohm 50w dummy load resistor, used a 24v SMPS, and clocked 17.36 volts as measured with a Fluke 101. The resistors were smokin' hot and outgassing something serious stinky smells (I could not touch them), the amp chip was hot and not comfortable to touch, the inductors (surprise), were barely warm. I ran for 5 minutes with 1kHz and the thermal shutoff never tripped. So it's a bonafide 60w into 5ohm amp.
I listened to it and was *REALLY* pleasantly surprised. In stock form, it sounds excellent. Great bass authority driving my 6.5in woofers in a 2-way (GR Research XL-S). Highs are clear and with good resolution and transparency. Ran through about 10 of my typical test tracks and they all sound good.
In summary, this amp is an excellent value, sounds great and is tiny. I highly recommend it.
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I always try to do some research before asking questions so forgive me if there is a thread somewhere I'm missing but what sort of preamp are most people using with these small amps or mutli amp active setups in general? I mean we have to adjust the volume somehow right?
Is there any turn on / off "pop" noise to this board ?
Can terminal blocks be mounted to the input & outputs ?
I have a spare enclosure and dont mind giving this a go!
Can terminal blocks be mounted to the input & outputs ?
I have a spare enclosure and dont mind giving this a go!
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I am guessing a 5mm pin spacing terminal block could be used. I actually ordered some but decided to direct solder for best connection integrity.
I did not notice any excessive popping noises compared to my other TPA amps, but it is not completely silent on turn on. However there is a mute connection on board that could easily be connected to a switch before powering on/off.
I just double checked turn on/off thump. This amp is much quieter than my others with a barely noticeable turn on click (not a thump), and no noise or click/thump from turning off. I am also discovering that since the PCB is the heatsink, it can get rather warm so my old standby technique of hot melt gluing the PCB to the case doesn't work. Glue softens up and board comes off. Especially my 5 minute 60w stress test.
If you really want to run this board at 60w, I would suggest getting a sheet of heatsink thermally conductive silicone and placing it underneath the PCB and screwing the board down onto a sheet of aluminum to clamp the silicone sheet down onto a heatsink or metal amp enclosure wall. Does not have to be a big heatsink but maybe a 4in x 6in sheet of 1/8in aluminum would work for all 4 amps.
Edit: even simpler, just use silicone RTV to glue the bottom face of this amp to a sheet of aluminum being careful to not let any protruding pins touch the metal.
I measured the pin spacing and it is ~4.6mm not 5mm for a terminal block.
If you really want to run this board at 60w, I would suggest getting a sheet of heatsink thermally conductive silicone and placing it underneath the PCB and screwing the board down onto a sheet of aluminum to clamp the silicone sheet down onto a heatsink or metal amp enclosure wall. Does not have to be a big heatsink but maybe a 4in x 6in sheet of 1/8in aluminum would work for all 4 amps.
Edit: even simpler, just use silicone RTV to glue the bottom face of this amp to a sheet of aluminum being careful to not let any protruding pins touch the metal.
I measured the pin spacing and it is ~4.6mm not 5mm for a terminal block.
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It's higher than 26dB, probably next step up 32dB? It sounds much louder at my usual volume knob and is the perfect match to be driven by my iPhone for good sound level. I am too lazy to get the magnfier out and trace the resistor settings. Although, the interested reader can probably zoom in on my photo and figure it out.
I will post a high res photo if anyone is interested in digging...
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Well 36dB, but master or slave I do not know, I think slave, but I always think slave 🙂
If Fluke tells you 400khz it is master 🙂
If Fluke tells you 400khz it is master 🙂
Should I check for frequency right before the output inductor? Never thought of using the frequency tester of ten Fluke for this.