TPA3116D2 Amp

Update:
8 Elna Silmic ARS 470uF 35V.
Bourns 22UH inductors
3.3uF Rike Audio S input caps
24v Sigma 11 regulated power supply
 

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Really like your mode.
Any sound improvement?
Can you show the back side of the amp plate?
Where you got your parts from?

Thank you,
Sergey

Hi Sergey,

A lot of improvements, it sounds really good now. Everything sounds to be right. Nothing is over highlighted, the music play has depth that you can listen into the recording more, much improvement in dynamics, natural sound and micro details that never been heard before.

For SMSL 36a Pro, basic modding caps like Oscon SEPF in chip PS and Panasonic FM in PS filter sounds harsh in my system, less details and smoothness in the music. But once changing and combining the caps in the proper places, it plays music in another higher level than MyRef.C amp.

I'll take the picture later when I am home.
 
okay Guise,

I finally tried to do a build worthy of the experts on here. This is an amplifier I made as a gift for a friend's wedding. It features YJ blue/black with input cap, power supply cap, bootstrap cap, and snubber mods...

Basically every good mod except the inductors. And, the volume pot is just a cheapy 50k from YJ.

I also added a board that runs the power-on LED indicator as well as some spare capacitance using 2x1500uF Panasonic FM caps.

Mounted in a cedar souvenir box I found in a thrift store.

A very good friend with a drill press helped me mount all the connectors without making it a total hack job.

Interesting thing here is that when I finally completed it and hooked it up it sounded terrible. I have a set of the Pioneer BS22 speakers with the Dennis Murphy mods and all I heard was serious distortion and crap.

So, I started to troubleshoot only to realize that I was actually hearing the amp burn in or something. All the distortion quickly faded away and in the midst of A/B testing with my desktop version of this amp--same mods plus coilcraft inductors and ALPS blue velvet volume pot--I quickly coudl no longer discern the difference.

So, I guess I literally heard those FM caps and the other stuff burn in ...

Within 20 minutes it sounded great.

I want to thank Rhing and all of the other experts on here. Without your pictures and work I would have never been able to put this together.

Now, I need to build one for myself. It pains me to have to give this away.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/45066974@N08/15586342906/in/photostream

https://www.flickr.com/photos/45066974@N08/14989263424/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/45066974@N08/15586339716/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/45066974@N08/14989258944/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/45066974@N08/15423897828/in/photostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/45066974@N08/15610840632/in/photostream/

Very nice work! What a great gift - lucky friend 🙂

I have never had something "burn in" right before my ears. Maybe burn in and blow up but never burn in and sound better...
 
Hi Sergey,

A lot of improvements, it sounds really good now. Everything sounds to be right. Nothing is over highlighted, the music play has depth that you can listen into the recording more, much improvement in dynamics, natural sound and micro details that never been heard before.

For SMSL 36a Pro, basic modding caps like Oscon SEPF in chip PS and Panasonic FM in PS filter sounds harsh in my system, less details and smoothness in the music. But once changing and combining the caps in the proper places, it plays music in another higher level than MyRef.C amp.

I'll take the picture later when I am home.

Nice!
I don't like to use switching power supply, for my ears something is there that my ears can't get use to. Even in most expensive high end amplifiers like LINN and others, they sound ... dry and artificial?
Instead high end T-amp (that I have tested in High End show in Moscow, unfortunately I don't remember the manufacture) with overkill toroid and massive power supply sound comparable to most expensive tube amplifiers. Not better, but really close in every aspect - staging, dept, openness, details and realism.
 
Nice!
I don't like to use switching power supply, for my ears something is there that my ears can't get use to. Even in most expensive high end amplifiers like LINN and others, they sound ... dry and artificial?
Instead high end T-amp (that I have tested in High End show in Moscow, unfortunately I don't remember the manufacture) with overkill toroid and massive power supply sound comparable to most expensive tube amplifiers. Not better, but really close in every aspect - staging, dept, openness, details and realism.

Absolutely agree. SMPS are not designed for HiFi.
 
I have tested nc400s with linear supplies, and have to say they are much better with the hypex smps600. Not all smps supplies are the same, and "all switch-mode supplies sound bad" is typical audiophile superstition.

You are right and what I should have said is "most SMPS" are not designed for HiFi use by which I mean laptop bricks and Meanwell type supplies. And that in my experience a well built linear supply is superior to SMPS.

However there are some which are designed for HiFi including the Hypex one you mention and the ones sold by Connexelectronic. Actually my sub amp uses a SMPS800RS SMPS from Connexelectronic and I am very happy with it tho it is only reproducing frequencies below 200hz in my system. But if you look at those units they have large input and output caps and generous filtering.

My preference would still be for a linear supply but I am willing to believe something like the NC400 (very interesting unit, pity about the cost) sounds better with its purpose built SMPS.
 
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I still think batteries are the best solution. I´m using 2 cheap 1500mAH LiFePo4 3S (9.9V) battery packs in series to power my TPA311X amps. I can't compare to a large toroid PSU but compared to a laptop brick the difference in sound is night and day.
Fully charged they put out around 20.2V and I recharge before voltage drops to 18V (below 18V the voltage drops fast and the cells will degrade if drained too much).
It's a cheap way to get clean power which doesn't take up much space. It just requires a LiFe capable battery charger and having to recharge twice a week or so (less often if you buy bigger batteries of course).
 
Not sure about LiFe batteries but LIPOs have 0.002 to 0.006 ohms per cell. A 5 cell (18.5v) will therefore have around 0.02 ohms. How do you see that figure relating to its performance in powering a 3116 or other amp?

Mainly because the internal resistance is much higher than that of a good-quality electrolytic capacitor, so the battery won't be as good at dealing with the surge peaks of the amp.
 
Mainly because the internal resistance is much higher than that of a good-quality electrolytic capacitor, so the battery won't be as good at dealing with the surge peaks of the amp.

If you add a reasonable capacitor bank between battery and battery I presume that takes care of such peaks?

Any other issues you see with battery supply? I have a bunch of LIPO batteries and may experiment putting a couple of 3 cell packs together.
 
If you add a reasonable capacitor bank between battery and battery I presume that takes care of such peaks?

Yes, that would take care of it.

Any other issues you see with battery supply? I have a bunch of LIPO batteries and may experiment putting a couple of 3 cell packs together.
Should be OK as long as you don't over-charge them. Long term it is good to keep in mind that many of them are only specified for a few hundred charging cycles.
 
Yes, that would take care of it.

Should be OK as long as you don't over-charge them. Long term it is good to keep in mind that many of them are only specified for a few hundred charging cycles.

Thanks, may have a play, a careful play, I am always careful with LIPO batteries and their ability to explode if badly treated!

By the way, interested in your impressions of the NC400, especially compared to 3116?
 
Thanks, may have a play, a careful play, I am always careful with LIPO batteries and their ability to explode if badly treated!

Indeed, an explosion would not be conductive to good sound quality.

By the way, interested in your impressions of the NC400, especially compared to 3116?

They are pretty hard to compare, considering the nc400 is a much more powerful amp. At moderate volumes and with "easy" speakers, I haven't noticed much difference, but at higher volumes and with hard-to-drive speakers it is no contest.