Possible for this board?
ebay link: TPA3116 2.1 Digital Audio Amplifier Board HIFI DC 12-24V BASS Speaker 50W*2+100W | eBay
(the pictures have 2 version of board and they actually ship the older one)
Or I will need to wire somewhat like this here?
SANWU TPA3116 + CSR8635 Bluetooth 4.0 - Noise Fix
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No, the board has unbalanced pre-amplifier which cannot be converted to balanced.
I chose specifically a board with no input circuits. Even a volume potentiometer would have to be removed since it is unbalanced. For volume I use volume controls of my soundcard. For balanced volume a quad pot would be OK, but difficult to source cheap. Or balanced-> unbalanced input circuit which would double the amp price. Sorry.
I chose specifically a board with no input circuits. Even a volume potentiometer would have to be removed since it is unbalanced. For volume I use volume controls of my soundcard. For balanced volume a quad pot would be OK, but difficult to source cheap. Or balanced-> unbalanced input circuit which would double the amp price. Sorry.
That hack takes the balanced output of the BT module directly to the balanced inputs of TPA3116, circumventing the unbalanced opamp stage. But IIUC you want to keep the unbalanced pre-amp+low-pass filter for the LFE.
ebay link: TPA3116 2.1 Digital Audio Amplifier Board HIFI DC 12-24V BASS Speaker 50W*2+100W | eBay
what the switch do on this board? Is it supposed to be a highpass? But does it work? Moreover how is one supposed to tune X-O frequency without testing mics?just by whatever sounds best? Fianally i want to pair this with a GRS 8SW 4ohn sub(80watt rms) and two PS95 dayton audio fullrangers 8ohm (10rms 20max) and a laptop power supply 24v 120watt. On the amps specsheet i can see that on a 8ohm load at 24v it can output 30watts+ i am scared of hurting the fullerangers can i play them that loud, to the point its going to damage them and not take notice of it by the distortion on the sound?
I'm no expert of this board, just got this board from recommendation (see thread quoted below) and it sounds and works better than my previous 2.1 which has 3 knobs but not sure if the its frequency control actually works before it died.
Ended up I have 3 different boards. First one with BT (newer layout) which I don't like its basic BT, so I bought another without BT for adding my own BT module, but the board lost 1 channel on 2nd day (it's older layout, got full refund). And finally, bought one without BT in new layout.
Here might answer your questions for this board (not sure where he found the spec):
https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/class-d/339820-2-1-amplifier-board.html#post5844277
I don't know what exactly I've set for the low-pass for the sub, I just set it to where it sounds good 😉
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I just change coil and rail caps from cheap TPA3116.
New inductor is for 7A. So it should be better than old one
It looks easy and with this sort of dual coil you can change them if they are alongside.
Amp sounds good.
New inductor is for 7A. So it should be better than old one
It looks easy and with this sort of dual coil you can change them if they are alongside.
Amp sounds good.
Attachments
@Kyrk
200 Hz is a usual frequency for very small satellites. You will be able to run them much louder than full range. You will not damage them with 30W, it only gives you distortion free headroom.
200 Hz is a frequency where a sub woofer, if it is located between the two speakers, will not be directly audible as sound source, but only add bass to them.
200 Hz is a usual frequency for very small satellites. You will be able to run them much louder than full range. You will not damage them with 30W, it only gives you distortion free headroom.
200 Hz is a frequency where a sub woofer, if it is located between the two speakers, will not be directly audible as sound source, but only add bass to them.
Hi chermann
50Wx2 TPA3116D2 Dual Kanal DC 4,5 27 V Digital Power Verstarker Bord Zwei Kanal Stereo Hohe Effizienz 50W + 50W-in Instrumententeile & Zubehor aus Werkzeug bei Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Gruppe
I bought this amp on his site and same on other site. No changment.
50Wx2 TPA3116D2 Dual Kanal DC 4,5 27 V Digital Power Verstarker Bord Zwei Kanal Stereo Hohe Effizienz 50W + 50W-in Instrumententeile & Zubehor aus Werkzeug bei Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Gruppe
I bought this amp on his site and same on other site. No changment.
If it ain't in between, I will have to lower the xover frequency? Moreover is the high pass is set at 200 and the xover of the sub can be tuned from 70 to 250 hz, doesn't. That force you to set the sub at 200hz so that. You don't loose any frequencies?
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As this is only a 12dB/oct x-over, the range where the speakers overlap is very broad. Depending on the frequency response of the woofer, you may find 80Hz low and 200Hz high pass most pleasing for your combination.
This might need quite some time listening, as you have to adjust volume of the bass different for each change in x-over frequency.
Many small sub woofer have not very much linear range.
So, while the output level rises with frequency, if you give it a low x-over, you virtually increase low bass. The resulting bass, compensated for with the volume controll, gives a more linear response with the satellites.
You have to experiment with your actual speakers, any further advice will not help you. Do not think you have to dial in some specific frequency, the result counts, not the numbers.
If you don´t trust your ears, get a measuring microfone and use ARTA or REW
This might need quite some time listening, as you have to adjust volume of the bass different for each change in x-over frequency.
Many small sub woofer have not very much linear range.
So, while the output level rises with frequency, if you give it a low x-over, you virtually increase low bass. The resulting bass, compensated for with the volume controll, gives a more linear response with the satellites.
You have to experiment with your actual speakers, any further advice will not help you. Do not think you have to dial in some specific frequency, the result counts, not the numbers.
If you don´t trust your ears, get a measuring microfone and use ARTA or REW
TPA3116 hiss
Hi, I have the same board and did exactly the same thing but still the hiss.. it didn't make any difference at all. Any ideas?
Thanks for any help.
Hi, I have the same board and did exactly the same thing but still the hiss.. it didn't make any difference at all. Any ideas?
Thanks for any help.
XH-M560 RED BOARD // some Hiss problem and infos
Hello,
I found this Red board with 2 TPA3116D2 (as shown on the attached pictures)
It works very fine althought it's not the cheaper one you can find on aliexpress,
it is miss labelled as "TDA3116" but i verified and it is a tpa3116 from TI.
Link : TPA3116D2 2.1 2x60watts + 1x100 watt (SW) , bluetooth/aux/TFcard/3P
And a acrylic hard shell
You can find approximately the same board, a blue board that time and a lot cheaper but without a hard shell
I drive it with a laptop power supply : Chicony 19V 4.74A
Honestly it works well like this and i have no problem driving my Cabasse MT32 with a good sound, but i have a question :
What is the best power supply ? 24V 6A seems pretty good but i have read various opinions on that
Now i have presented the board (i know you like it on that thread 😛), i can tell you I have few problems :
- LITTLE hiss problem everytime (i heard i can fix that doing the "gain mod" removing a 100k resistor (R2) and changing the R1 from XX to XX
(Can i just remove R2 to do the gain mod ? One youtube video says we can't do that)
- BIG hiss problem when i drive the amp with THIS power supply and TOUCHING/APPROACHING the potentiometers/pot buttons.
My power supply is connected to ground so i don't understand what happens.
Best regards guys, and thanks for the help.
Papaya
Hello,
I found this Red board with 2 TPA3116D2 (as shown on the attached pictures)
It works very fine althought it's not the cheaper one you can find on aliexpress,
it is miss labelled as "TDA3116" but i verified and it is a tpa3116 from TI.
Link : TPA3116D2 2.1 2x60watts + 1x100 watt (SW) , bluetooth/aux/TFcard/3P
And a acrylic hard shell
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
You can find approximately the same board, a blue board that time and a lot cheaper but without a hard shell
I drive it with a laptop power supply : Chicony 19V 4.74A
Honestly it works well like this and i have no problem driving my Cabasse MT32 with a good sound, but i have a question :
What is the best power supply ? 24V 6A seems pretty good but i have read various opinions on that
Now i have presented the board (i know you like it on that thread 😛), i can tell you I have few problems :
- LITTLE hiss problem everytime (i heard i can fix that doing the "gain mod" removing a 100k resistor (R2) and changing the R1 from XX to XX
(Can i just remove R2 to do the gain mod ? One youtube video says we can't do that)
- BIG hiss problem when i drive the amp with THIS power supply and TOUCHING/APPROACHING the potentiometers/pot buttons.
My power supply is connected to ground so i don't understand what happens.
Best regards guys, and thanks for the help.
Papaya
Try a piece of wire from ground to the pot´s metal axle. Noise touching it should be gone.
If you mount the amp in a case, it should be grounded to it. Or use a plastic knob, maybe?
His and noise have to be jugded with the input of the amp grounded. Anything else has to be adressed later.
The 24V 9A SMPS is dead quiet. Yo have done something wrong if it produces noise.
Maybe have a look at well build amps in the gallerie, then compare yours. Or post detailed pictures of your build.
If you mount the amp in a case, it should be grounded to it. Or use a plastic knob, maybe?
His and noise have to be jugded with the input of the amp grounded. Anything else has to be adressed later.
The 24V 9A SMPS is dead quiet. Yo have done something wrong if it produces noise.
Maybe have a look at well build amps in the gallerie, then compare yours. Or post detailed pictures of your build.
Hello,
I plan to mount this board:
TPA3116 2.1 Digital Audio Amplifier Board HIFI DC 12-24V BASS Speaker 50W*2+100W | eBay
inside a wooden box(made out of balsa) and plan to power it using the 2pin screw terminal(therefore with no ground). Will I have grounding problems with my setup? I guess it's going to be almost completely isolated(except from the inputs), I will of course place the plastic caps on the pots.
I plan to mount this board:
TPA3116 2.1 Digital Audio Amplifier Board HIFI DC 12-24V BASS Speaker 50W*2+100W | eBay
inside a wooden box(made out of balsa) and plan to power it using the 2pin screw terminal(therefore with no ground). Will I have grounding problems with my setup? I guess it's going to be almost completely isolated(except from the inputs), I will of course place the plastic caps on the pots.
Most probably this will give no noise. Sometimes the source and the amp will have ground problems, depending on the power supplies. Then you have to find a ground connection that is silent.
These amp´s run on very high frequency´s, they can give problems in the AM radio. It is better to use them screened, inside some metal box.
These amp´s run on very high frequency´s, they can give problems in the AM radio. It is better to use them screened, inside some metal box.
I have this working now. I had a ground trace broken in single input mode which made the horrible hiss. Now in balanced input it is noiseless, loud, and sounds great.
Thanks for the reply !
Ok, I tried it and it is even worse with a cable connecting the ground to one potentiometer
What i don't understand is it doesn't produce that noise with the regular laptop power supply...
Here you can find pictures from my setup (it is mounted on a plate, inside side of my subwoofer like it was before it didn't work)
Just the power supply "plate":
whole setup :
whole setup + ground cable from pot to ground :
You grounded the SMPS. A very bad idea. Without this (yellow) wire it should be silent. Does not help with safety, too, as it is a plastic case. As far as I can see (I don`t see much!) the yellow wire in your build should not be connected.
The gray wire is just as bad. Ground means signal ground. Just a wire from the amp boards ground (negative -) to the pot´s. Not from the SMPS, in this case it is like an antenna for all electromagnetic dirt.
The black cable with brown and blue wires from the SMPS to the amp may work, usually one would use two wires twisted together.
I do not fully understand what you plan as a final build.
Such a forum has the problem that we do not know what level of practice /knowledge the other one in a communication has. So good advice will sometimes get bad results.
115 or 230 Volt AC are very dangerous and things like the 3rd wire of the power grit are handelt very differently in some country´s. In mine you are basically forbidden to work at it without a special degree of education.
The gray wire is just as bad. Ground means signal ground. Just a wire from the amp boards ground (negative -) to the pot´s. Not from the SMPS, in this case it is like an antenna for all electromagnetic dirt.
The black cable with brown and blue wires from the SMPS to the amp may work, usually one would use two wires twisted together.
I do not fully understand what you plan as a final build.
Such a forum has the problem that we do not know what level of practice /knowledge the other one in a communication has. So good advice will sometimes get bad results.
115 or 230 Volt AC are very dangerous and things like the 3rd wire of the power grit are handelt very differently in some country´s. In mine you are basically forbidden to work at it without a special degree of education.