Thanks. The "100VA" figure was confusing to me as I don't fully know how transformers work and how to measure their power properly.
I just made an assumption about the power supply because when I bought the amp board in it's description it said "some switching power supplies may have current noise" which makes sense as switching power supplies are prone to that. Also, I'm quite sure the audio input isn't a problem here since it did buzz even without any input plugged in.
The power isn't the main concern to me, buzzing is. The amp actually outputs pretty decent power even with only 19V and 3.4A laptop charger. I just thought that maybe I could achieve two things at the same time (remove buzzing and slightly increase power) with changing the power supply or in this case assembling my own. But with that transformer being not suitable I will just try another switching power supply (at least as powerful as the one I currently have).
Hey guys
I'm hijacking this thread... So sorry... And by the way: congrats on that work of yours... It really looks very nice
I'm planning on buying one 3116 board from AliExpress
Is it worth it? Are there any tweaks I could do? Thanks
US $6.03 16%OFF | 12V-24V TPA3116 D2 120W+120W Dual-channel Stereo Digital Audio Power Amplifier
AliExpress
I'm hijacking this thread... So sorry... And by the way: congrats on that work of yours... It really looks very nice
I'm planning on buying one 3116 board from AliExpress
Is it worth it? Are there any tweaks I could do? Thanks
US $6.03 16%OFF | 12V-24V TPA3116 D2 120W+120W Dual-channel Stereo Digital Audio Power Amplifier
AliExpress
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Don´t try to pull the heat sink off, carefully rotate it, usually that way it will separate easily. I received some amps with the heat sink already fallen off. Better to glue them with a credible substance than the questionable silicone that the manufacturers use. Also there might be essential parts hidden under the HS, like the resistors programming gain.
Do TPA3116D2 chips work well with pc line outs? My motherboard has an 200-250 ohm output impedance will it run OK with the TPA3116D2 2.1 amp Bluetooth 4.2 TPA3116D2 Subwoofer Audio Amplifier Board 2.1 2*50W+100W DC12-24V | eBay
Is there a difference between using as an input the 3.5mm port or the 3pin jst connector? Do you know what's the Input impedance of this amp? Would it work better with headphone output?
Is there a difference between using as an input the 3.5mm port or the 3pin jst connector? Do you know what's the Input impedance of this amp? Would it work better with headphone output?
This should be a line input of about 10-20k ohm. Any pre amp with less than 600 ohm should be fine. That is a common rule. The 3.5mm and 3-pin are usually identical. Use one, preferable the 3-pin, as the 3.5mm are not very reliable.
You can take the headphone out too, maybe it will just be the same as the line out, without an additional resistor or one amp stage less, depends on the main boards sound chip.
These are general rules, what you have at your amp may comply to them, if the "developer" knew what he/her did. This is not always the norm in China... you should check with your specific hard ware.
Or post a good picture, maybe someone here has used the amp before. The ebay pictures are often misleading.
You can take the headphone out too, maybe it will just be the same as the line out, without an additional resistor or one amp stage less, depends on the main boards sound chip.
These are general rules, what you have at your amp may comply to them, if the "developer" knew what he/her did. This is not always the norm in China... you should check with your specific hard ware.
Or post a good picture, maybe someone here has used the amp before. The ebay pictures are often misleading.
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I've been using the same board with bookshelf speakers as my PC speakers for months.
It's a little cheaper on aliexpress
You can also get a case with it, I bought that separately
AIYIMA TPA3116 Subwoofer Bluetooth Amplifier Digital Audio Board 2.1 Channel Bluetooth 4.2 Power Amplifier Board 50Wx2+100W DIY-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
if you don't need Bluetooth (the board is using JL Audio chip which supports only basic SBC codec), this is the same one without bluetooth
AIYIMA Assembled HIFI digital power amplifier TPA3116D2 2.1 high power board 12 24V subwoofer bass board-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
There is also an older version without BT which looks very similar but the big capacitor on different side (knob control functions are at different location) which is even cheaper
I bought that one too but one channel was weak and completely failed after a day (and got refund), not sure the reason.
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They work perfect with PC audio outputs. Just beware of ground loops when connecting to PC which all have huge ground currents inside. Look at https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pc-based/341573-power-supply-noise-3.html#post5901455
That amp has noise only when I tried to power the amp using 12V from the PC power supply.
If the amp is using its own power supply, no noise at all.
Then no ground loop is formed and everything is OK
Actually, I was trying to solve the ground loop problem if powering by my PC's PSU, but because I'm using a regular desktop PC, which pulls 200W when gaming, cannot use the USB isolator someone suggested in that thread which only applies to Pi.
I'm using the PCIe cables from the PSU to pull another 200W, though probably overkilled, for the amp. But because of the noise, I'm now planning to use 5V or 12V relay setup to control the amp's own power supply (my goal is to turn on the amp only when my PC is running).
If using the balanced input like yours, it depends on the amp board if it has the negative inputs ready?
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Vast majority of boards do not have the balanced inputs directly available. But some board are trivial to modify for balanced input, some more difficult, some straight impossible. It was my criterion when shopping for the board. I picked the red sanwu because it was trivial to modify - just disconnecting one side of the coupling caps in the negative input lines from ground with caps located at the edge of the board, the grounded leads facing to the edge (BTW rather decent caps considering the board price).
The broken image in your original post is picture of where the caps are?
If can get the balanced inputs, I can skip the PCM5102A and directly using balanced outputs from my Bluetooth module I'm trying to put in too.
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Please which broken image link is broken? I see images OK in my thread, specifically it is https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wiki/pavhofman/plabs-player/images/TPA3116/futro_TPA3116.jpg
The image after "Most TPA3116 boards do not pull out the negative inputs from underneath the heatsink but there are some which do, e.g."
Or that's just an image of the board you use?
Fixed now, thanks a lot for noticing.