TPA3116D2 Amp

60 Euro - probably not worth that amount of money ;-)


Worth the money if that is what you are looking for.
Fine filter chokes and connectors. Looks like western production standards.
With two polyacrylate shielding plates. With connecting wires. The TPA3128D2 chip which is considerably more expensive than TPA3116/18. Small production batch.

This what it costs if it has to be made in the western world.
 
One more try with these pre-made 2.1 boards, this one was recommended by some hobbyist in his youtube video.

It's supposed to have adjustable bass level and cross over, treble knob and total volume.

First impressions (24V & 5A supply brick):
-Way too high gain
-terrible hiss (worst when the total volume knob is at most counter clockwise position
-treble pot not only affects the treble, but also mutes the other channel :D

I'm attaching couple pictures, because I'm going to try to lower the gain, but I need some confirmation about the layout.

Left chip is for the sub. Looks that the R30 (100k) and R31 (16k) define the gain. But should they be the other way around for slave mode and 36dB gain?

Right chip is for left and right channel. R20 (75k) and R26 (47k), so this is set to master and 36dB gain, right?
 

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When reading the posts here, I get a feeling that all the reported problems with noise are caused by lousy implementations of the integrated preamps/filters/attenuators. Plain amps with correctly separated inputs/outputs/power lines/output inductors are OK. Plus of course feeding the amp in balanced mode to avoid ground loops with the source.

Honestly, I would prefer a preamp board physically separated from the main amp. If the preamp has no balanced output (very likely), feeding the amp powered by the same PSU in quasi-balanced way. IMO no reason to be noisy, the actual amp can be dead-silent for the tiny price.
 
Wow - looks nice :) can you provide some link where we can buy it ? In my opinion all that chinese wima, nichicon etc capacitors & op-amps might be fake ...

Bought one of these to test out in my Boominator. Horrible hiss noise compared to some of the other amps tested. Unsure if it’s a gain issue that could be fixed in some way or if it takes an isolated power supply for the Bluetooth?

US $18.00 30% Off | AIYIMA Professional Mini Amplificador Audio Amplifiers Board TPA3116 2.0 Dual Chip Digital Power Amplifier 100W For Home Theater
AIYIMA Professional Mini Amplificador Audio Amplifiers Board TPA3116 2.0 Dual Chip Digital Power Amplifier 100W For Home Theater-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

US $30.60 28% Off | AIYIMA CSR8675 Wireless Bluetooth 5.0 Receiver Board ES9018 APTX-HD I2S DAC Decoder Board DAC With Antenna Support 24Bit/96Khz
AIYIMA CSR8675 Wireless Bluetooth 5.0 Receiver Board ES9018 APTX HD I2S DAC Decoder Board DAC With Antenna Support 24Bit/96Khz -in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
 
Thx for the suggestions - will surely try a separate battery and report back. Not sure how to avoid leaving the secondary input open? :)

Anyway back to the amp that was discussed here in earlier posts. Compared to the other of my ~6 AliExpress amps it’s clearly the one making the most noise. So separate power source or not...it’s relatively speaking not performing very well in my setup. (Looks nice and to be well build as also mentioned in here)

@hansueli: yes I bought both the amp and the Bt modules I linked. Happy with the BT module so far
 
Let's say the BT board outputs 1Vmax (PC soundcard level-ish), likely more. Powered by e.g. 30V - the needed gain setting for reasonably low distortion (< 0.2%) would be 26dB = x 20 = 20V Vmax (28W to 8ohm). For that the input impedance according to the chip datasheet is 30kOhm, quite typical for a power amp.

My experience with noise reduction:

* Keeping gain as low as possible, to avoid useless attenuation of an already amplified signal

* shielding the inputs, using properly shielded cables

* no larger input circuitry on the power amp board which is not shielded

* definitely no input traces close to the outputs (some boards discussed here have input and output connectors on the same side)

* and most importantly - avoiding the ground loop with signal source device created by single power supply. The chip has balanced inputs, that particular board has them perfectly accessible due to use of nice input caps for all the inputs. The common-noise rejection of the input stage is very good. All it takes is just using a shielded balanced cable instead of the regular coax.
 
tpa3116

So i ordered of an ebay a set of amp and a case for it

tpa3116 2.1, but it arrived defective- bluetooth works led power light turns on , but the sound is very quiet, but all the channels work, but its veeery quiet,

s-l1600.jpg


the differenc from this board mine has larger capacitors along side the amp chips. Where shoud i dig..
 
Noise

Hi all,

I've bought a 2.1 amp of Lucya. The amp will be used in the livingroom.
When testing I've noticed a bad noice when the stereo volume is turned on. This is the amp:

Lusya TPA3116D2 2.1 Digital Audio Amplifier Board 80W*2+100W Subwoofer 2.1 amplificador DC24V XH M139 D3 005 -in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

I've had contact with the seller. He had all kind of instructions. I've tried a industrial 24Vdc powersupply, and a old laptop powersupply.
Connected and disconnected 3.5mm.
Same result.

While testing I've noticed one of the capacitors is quit bulky.
cDXNSdF

Imgur: The magic of the Internet

Do you think this capacitor is broken? :confused:
 
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i shouldve asked for full refund, but seller offered half, and i agreed, becouse case is not defective in any way, and was intrested can i fix it - becouse technicaly it works- power on bluetooth powers all the "connection sounds from bt" its just quiet- lacks gain or somethen- becouse its quiet but clear, sound is not distorted or anything...
 
So i ordered of an ebay a set of amp and a case for it

tpa3116 2.1, but it arrived defective- bluetooth works led power light turns on , but the sound is very quiet, but all the channels work, but its veeery quiet,

s-l1600.jpg


the differenc from this board mine has larger capacitors along side the amp chips. Where shoud i dig..

i have a similar looking one to you and i have the same issue, for something that is 2*50w and 1*100w i expected alot more, but got better efficiency and sound out of the DTA-2 stereo amp which is 2*15 :(

mine had some funky noise in the drivers and when turning up the apparent sub master volume, i swear it cranked up the overall bass as well. I gave up in the end bitterly disappointed
 
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Won't hurt to try

At the moment the SW chip is resetting itself in a continuous loop. And I just checked, there is some voltage passing through the output measuring at -17 volts.

The main chip is still mute as before.

I'm kind of interested in continuing with this mission, it's great for learning! But I would need to get some dummy load to outputs. I'm using actual speakers now and I think they won't like that DC on the output for too long.

Any suggestions on how to continue from here?
Sorry to come so late with this suggestion, but I have missed, the interesting posting as I have 2 of these boards, which are working fine after about a year of use.
I had a strange problem with 1 of the boards; when turning the volume of the subwoofer completely down, the left channel volume would cut out. :confused:

I 'solved' it by turning the volume pot for the subwoofer a couple of times and the problem has not come back.
Like there was a little dust in the sealed pots... ?! Maybe still a little new/rough and had wear in; I don't know.

So give all the pots some turns, although the problem seems to be in the muting circuitry on the board.

I can get mine to plop by turning them almost off, just before the click, and then back on. Maybe try that as well a couple of times.

Hope you get life back in it and it then functions without the hiss you wrote about as well, so you can enjoy it, as I do.