@chermann
HIFI TPA3116 2,0 Kanal Digital Power Verstarker Bord Switc Netzteil Verstarker Bord 2*60 watt AC 100 240 v in HIFI TPA3116 2,0 Kanal Digital Power Verstarker Bord Switc Netzteil Verstarker Bord 2*60 watt AC 100- 240 v aus Verstarker auf AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
Bluetooth modul is included!
HIFI TPA3116 2,0 Kanal Digital Power Verstarker Bord Switc Netzteil Verstarker Bord 2*60 watt AC 100 240 v in HIFI TPA3116 2,0 Kanal Digital Power Verstarker Bord Switc Netzteil Verstarker Bord 2*60 watt AC 100- 240 v aus Verstarker auf AliExpress.com | Alibaba Group
Bluetooth modul is included!
thanks
as i read carefully ...generally the Bluetooth modules are mostly noisy !
Where is it on the pictures???
I have ordered this one...
TPA3116 2.0 Channel Bluetooth Digital Power Amplifier Board Active Speaker Amplifier Board 2*60W AC 85-245V
TPA3116 2.0 Channel Bluetooth Digital Power Amplifier Board Active Speaker Amplifier Board 2*60W AC 85 245V -in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
..... am awaiting delivery. I was informed by seller that there is no on/off plop before I ordered. Will revert once I have it.
It also comes with CSR BT4.0 with inbuilt PSU.
TPA3116 2.0 Channel Bluetooth Digital Power Amplifier Board Active Speaker Amplifier Board 2*60W AC 85-245V
TPA3116 2.0 Channel Bluetooth Digital Power Amplifier Board Active Speaker Amplifier Board 2*60W AC 85 245V -in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
..... am awaiting delivery. I was informed by seller that there is no on/off plop before I ordered. Will revert once I have it.
It also comes with CSR BT4.0 with inbuilt PSU.
@ hansueli... isn't mine similar to what you have bought ?... Is yours the one in the link you have attached or is it the one which dzwer has attached?.. they all seem to be from olive leaf.
... mine is the same as the one dzwer has attached.
I was skeptical about on/off plop because this was a problem with another TDA7498 board with similar CSR4.0 BT....
I have only purchased after I was assured by seller...
... mine is the same as the one dzwer has attached.
I was skeptical about on/off plop because this was a problem with another TDA7498 board with similar CSR4.0 BT....
I have only purchased after I was assured by seller...
.... Regarding volume....it seems that there is no volume control as informed by seller. The CSR4.0 modules normally remembers to keep volume at mid level when starting up. But, you cannot fix it at lower volume to keep THD down and avoid speaker cone over excursion.
Am keeping fingers crossed to check once product is delivered.
Am keeping fingers crossed to check once product is delivered.
At last I have time to continue! 
I'm using a 19v 4,74A laptop brick. I'm reading 19,4 volts from the DC input
0,00v
4: started from 0,2 and dropped to 0,0
5: 0,0
10: 0,0
11: 0,0
both 5,28V
1,47V
0V
0V
all are 0V
0V. Conductivity test with meter doesn't give me a beep, but I can measure a 9,6k resistance between the chips from those pins. It's close to impossible to trace the routes where they go.
Then a few impedance measurements without power and without speakers:
This impedance measuring is bothering me, I only get readings when the "-" probe is at the supply "+", is it really like this? But anyway, it shows me -30k from both pins. Yes, the prefix "-" is correct, negative impedance. Maybe something wrong here? The working chip shows 6,5k from both pins.
to supply "-"
4: 82,3k
5: 82,4k
10: 81,5k
11: 81,1k
to supply "+"
these are hard to measure, seems to go up from 20k to who knows how high, I'm at 140k at the moment. Same kind of behaviour in the other chip.
This seems to go higher all the time also, 145k at the moment and going up.
Thank you FauxFrench for your patience, I appreciate it.
I'm using a 19v 4,74A laptop brick. I'm reading 19,4 volts from the DC input
0,00v
4: started from 0,2 and dropped to 0,0
5: 0,0
10: 0,0
11: 0,0
both 5,28V
1,47V
0V
0V
all are 0V
0V. Conductivity test with meter doesn't give me a beep, but I can measure a 9,6k resistance between the chips from those pins. It's close to impossible to trace the routes where they go.
Then a few impedance measurements without power and without speakers:
This impedance measuring is bothering me, I only get readings when the "-" probe is at the supply "+", is it really like this? But anyway, it shows me -30k from both pins. Yes, the prefix "-" is correct, negative impedance. Maybe something wrong here? The working chip shows 6,5k from both pins.
to supply "-"
4: 82,3k
5: 82,4k
10: 81,5k
11: 81,1k
to supply "+"
these are hard to measure, seems to go up from 20k to who knows how high, I'm at 140k at the moment. Same kind of behaviour in the other chip.
This seems to go higher all the time also, 145k at the moment and going up.
Thank you FauxFrench for your patience, I appreciate it.
I'm using a 19v 4,74A laptop brick. I'm reading 19,4 volts from the DC input.
Fine, well within valid supply range.
0,00v
This is section 7.3.12 of the datasheet. BD-modulation not requiring an output filter and using same polarity but with different switching moments. A bit strange but used to work before.
4: started from 0,2 and dropped to 0,0
5: 0,0
10: 0,0
11: 0,0
The bias circuits are clearly not activated and the inputs out of range.
both 5,28V
Low, out of the specification range. No power limit.
1,47V
Hints “master” setting and 32dB gain.
0V
Fine.
0V
Fine.
all are 0V
Fine, set for 400KHz.
0V. Conductivity test with meter doesn't give me a beep, but I can measure a 9,6k resistance between the chips from those pins. It's close to impossible to trace the routes where they go.
If the MC chip is set up as master, the SW chip may be slave.
This impedance measuring is bothering me, I only get readings when the "-" probe is at the supply "+", is it really like this? But anyway, it shows me -30k from both pins. Yes, the prefix "-" is correct, negative impedance. Maybe something wrong here? The working chip shows 6,5k from both pins.
Seems really weird and may indicate that the chip is not allowed to start up. Perhaps missing a pull-up resistor?
to supply "-"
4: 82,3k
5: 82,4k
10: 81,5k
11: 81,1k
to supply "+"
these are hard to measure, seems to go up from 20k to who knows how high, I'm at 140k at the moment. Same kind of behaviour in the other chip.
Seems OK, the inputs are not hanging on either potential.
This seems to go higher all the time also, 145k at the moment and going up.
Seems strange and as if no pull-up is guaranteed. If not pulled up (or down) correctly, the operation of the output stages is uncertain. High → high impedance output pins; low → output operational. Could be tied to ground? Is so, you just measure charging of the power decoupling capacitors.
Let’s focus on the SDZ and MUTE pins.
The MUTE pin may be the simplest. Impedance measurement without power between pin 12 and ground. Is pin 12 connected to ground? If not, what is the voltage at pin 12 when the power is ON?
The SDZ pin (pin 2) requires a “high” for the chip to be enabled. If there is no pull-up resistor, the level may stay “low” or in the undetermined gray zone. The FAULTZ pin (pin 3) cannot pull SDZ up as it is an open drain output.
What is the voltage on SDZ and FAULTZ pins when the power is ON? (I know you previously stated this to be “nothing”). Next, try to connect the two pins (2 and 3) to supply “+” through a 22K resistor such that there is a pull-up resistor. Have the designers overlooked such a resistor (random operation)?
Last, could you please check the impedance (without power) from pin 16 to ground and afterwards to supply “+”? I bought a TPA3116 mono-amp where pin 16, set as an output, was tied to ground. Not what should be done with an output.
Fine, well within valid supply range.
0,00v
This is section 7.3.12 of the datasheet. BD-modulation not requiring an output filter and using same polarity but with different switching moments. A bit strange but used to work before.
4: started from 0,2 and dropped to 0,0
5: 0,0
10: 0,0
11: 0,0
The bias circuits are clearly not activated and the inputs out of range.
both 5,28V
Low, out of the specification range. No power limit.
1,47V
Hints “master” setting and 32dB gain.
0V
Fine.
0V
Fine.
all are 0V
Fine, set for 400KHz.
0V. Conductivity test with meter doesn't give me a beep, but I can measure a 9,6k resistance between the chips from those pins. It's close to impossible to trace the routes where they go.
If the MC chip is set up as master, the SW chip may be slave.
This impedance measuring is bothering me, I only get readings when the "-" probe is at the supply "+", is it really like this? But anyway, it shows me -30k from both pins. Yes, the prefix "-" is correct, negative impedance. Maybe something wrong here? The working chip shows 6,5k from both pins.
Seems really weird and may indicate that the chip is not allowed to start up. Perhaps missing a pull-up resistor?
to supply "-"
4: 82,3k
5: 82,4k
10: 81,5k
11: 81,1k
to supply "+"
these are hard to measure, seems to go up from 20k to who knows how high, I'm at 140k at the moment. Same kind of behaviour in the other chip.
Seems OK, the inputs are not hanging on either potential.
This seems to go higher all the time also, 145k at the moment and going up.
Seems strange and as if no pull-up is guaranteed. If not pulled up (or down) correctly, the operation of the output stages is uncertain. High → high impedance output pins; low → output operational. Could be tied to ground? Is so, you just measure charging of the power decoupling capacitors.
Let’s focus on the SDZ and MUTE pins.
The MUTE pin may be the simplest. Impedance measurement without power between pin 12 and ground. Is pin 12 connected to ground? If not, what is the voltage at pin 12 when the power is ON?
The SDZ pin (pin 2) requires a “high” for the chip to be enabled. If there is no pull-up resistor, the level may stay “low” or in the undetermined gray zone. The FAULTZ pin (pin 3) cannot pull SDZ up as it is an open drain output.
What is the voltage on SDZ and FAULTZ pins when the power is ON? (I know you previously stated this to be “nothing”). Next, try to connect the two pins (2 and 3) to supply “+” through a 22K resistor such that there is a pull-up resistor. Have the designers overlooked such a resistor (random operation)?
Last, could you please check the impedance (without power) from pin 16 to ground and afterwards to supply “+”? I bought a TPA3116 mono-amp where pin 16, set as an output, was tied to ground. Not what should be done with an output.
Last edited:
It measures 98k impedance.
0V when power on.
Still 0V. I was going to compare it with the other chip (SW) voltages, when the tip of the probe slipped and the other chip started popping.
I probably shorted the FAULTZ pin and input. Sounds to me like it powers on, and then powers off after couple seconds... and it's doing this in a loop. Damn me and my shaky hands!109,5k to ground
-28k to supply "+"
Now I really need to think, do I wan't to continue with this project. The quality of this board wasn't so good, noises etc.
Many thanks!
It measures 98k impedance.
0V when power on.
The 0V is fine, the 98K pretty high for unambiguous control of a logic level of an amplifier.
Still 0V. I was going to compare it with the other chip (SW) voltages, when the tip of the probe slipped and the other chip started popping. I probably shorted the FAULTZ pin and input. Sounds to me like it powers on, and then powers off after couple seconds... and it's doing this in a loop. Damn me and my shaky hands!
Oh dear. Both chips behaving weird?
109,5k to ground
-28k to supply "+"
Fine, no strange forcing of this output.
Now I really need to think, do I wan't to continue with this project. The quality of this board wasn't so good, noises etc.
Fair enough. I am an "electronics freak" and my main game is to make electronics work or at least understand exactly why it doesn't work. More tiny broken PCB tracks is one failure I do not repair for example.
Other are more interested in listening to good music and do DIY constructions to get to good audio gear at a more reasonable price. For them wasting much time on doubtful and cheap constructions that do not work serves no purpose. A fully valid view.
In this case, it is not a trivial fault and now we may be looking at two faults. I have noticed that in more rather cheap but competent looking boards, some strange design mistakes are made. These mistakes make the boards behave strangely from time to time. In your case, I am not confident with the control of the SDZ/FAULTZ and MUTE pins. They are at the core of the operation and my idea is to force the pins to a correct state. Personally I would continue because I improve my methods of fault finding in more complex cases. I rarely have to give in but I do not start with "lost cases" like old discrete amplifiers where fault finding is a never ending case.
But, for you life goes on and you have the possibility to devote your energy to something else. Time for you to decide?
It measures 98k impedance.
0V when power on.
The 0V is fine, the 98K pretty high for unambiguous control of a logic level of an amplifier.
Still 0V. I was going to compare it with the other chip (SW) voltages, when the tip of the probe slipped and the other chip started popping.
I probably shorted the FAULTZ pin and input. Sounds to me like it powers on, and then powers off after couple seconds... and it's doing this in a loop. Damn me and my shaky hands!Oh dear. Both chips behaving weird?
109,5k to ground
-28k to supply "+"
Fine, no strange forcing of this output.
Now I really need to think, do I wan't to continue with this project. The quality of this board wasn't so good, noises etc.
Fair enough. I am an "electronics freak" and my main game is to make electronics work or at least understand exactly why it doesn't work. More tiny broken PCB tracks is one failure I do not repair for example.
Other are more interested in listening to good music and do DIY constructions to get to good audio gear at a more reasonable price. For them wasting much time on doubtful and cheap constructions that do not work serves no purpose. A fully valid view.
In this case, it is not a trivial fault and now we may be looking at two faults. I have noticed that in more rather cheap but competent looking boards, some strange design mistakes are made. These mistakes make the boards behave strangely from time to time. In your case, I am not confident with the control of the SDZ/FAULTZ and MUTE pins. They are at the core of the operation and my idea is to force the pins to a correct state. Personally I would continue because I improve my methods of fault finding in more complex cases. I rarely have to give in but I do not start with "lost cases" like old discrete amplifiers where fault finding is a never ending case.
But, for you life goes on and you have the possibility to devote your energy to something else. Time for you to decide?
At the moment the SW chip is resetting itself in a continuous loop. And I just checked, there is some voltage passing through the output measuring at -17 volts.
The main chip is still mute as before.
I'm kind of interested in continuing with this mission, it's great for learning! But I would need to get some dummy load to outputs. I'm using actual speakers now and I think they won't like that DC on the output for too long.
Any suggestions on how to continue from here?
Fine. We need to look at one at a time. Let's continue with the MC chip.
Yes dummy loads is a good idea. Don't need more than some 8Ohm/5W - we will only do static measurements for the moment. Also, if you happen to have a 12V supply (1A is sufficient) it is better for fault finding than 19V. Less voltage -> less energy to cause harm.
A general question: I just found a sales-description of the amplifier from “GHXAmp”. It is not very elaborate but mentions that if you push in the right-most (volume?) button you activate a “function switch”. Do you know what that “function switch” does? Could it be that you, when you removed the heatsinks, unintentionally activated the “function switch” and disabled a part of the amplifier?
If no surprise here, let’s continue.
The SW chip you may disable by pulling the SDZ/FAULTZ pins to ground through 4K7. That should stop the resetting loop.
For the MC chip, the SDZ/FAULTZ pins should be "high" for the chip to be active and the MUTE pin be "low" for the chip to be active. As you measured, we do not have any impedance or voltage confirmation that the pins are operated correctly and the outputs and input bias actually indicate the opposite. Therefore, let's try to force the controls active through resistors to limit the current. If you use 10K to pull the MUTE to ground and 10K to pull SDZ/FAULTZ to supply "+". Please check the resulting pin voltages.
We have some success when pins 6 and 7 are close to 7Vdc and the four outputs (measured after the output chokes) are close to half the supply voltage.
Yes dummy loads is a good idea. Don't need more than some 8Ohm/5W - we will only do static measurements for the moment. Also, if you happen to have a 12V supply (1A is sufficient) it is better for fault finding than 19V. Less voltage -> less energy to cause harm.
A general question: I just found a sales-description of the amplifier from “GHXAmp”. It is not very elaborate but mentions that if you push in the right-most (volume?) button you activate a “function switch”. Do you know what that “function switch” does? Could it be that you, when you removed the heatsinks, unintentionally activated the “function switch” and disabled a part of the amplifier?
If no surprise here, let’s continue.
The SW chip you may disable by pulling the SDZ/FAULTZ pins to ground through 4K7. That should stop the resetting loop.
For the MC chip, the SDZ/FAULTZ pins should be "high" for the chip to be active and the MUTE pin be "low" for the chip to be active. As you measured, we do not have any impedance or voltage confirmation that the pins are operated correctly and the outputs and input bias actually indicate the opposite. Therefore, let's try to force the controls active through resistors to limit the current. If you use 10K to pull the MUTE to ground and 10K to pull SDZ/FAULTZ to supply "+". Please check the resulting pin voltages.
We have some success when pins 6 and 7 are close to 7Vdc and the four outputs (measured after the output chokes) are close to half the supply voltage.
That sounds like a plan! I just wanted to inform that I'll be on a trip for the weekend and need to order resistors for the dummy load, no local suppliers around. I'll get back to this as soon as I get everything ready. Thank you.
Much cheaper power resistors are 0.01/2/4/8/5k Ohm 100W Watt Shell Power Aluminum Housed Case Wirewound Resistor | eBay , work just fine in my speaker-output measurement adapter Balanced Amp Outputs Measurement Adapter