I think those values are mentioned in the application notes from the datasheet. Those arent too difficult to find in those blue ceramic disc like format, the polyester/mylar type can be difficult to find in local stores but they are usually available through online sites for electronic components.
What you did to change the configuration into PBTL sounds correct to me.
It is not possible you have swapped the jumpers at the output around?
We agree that you changed the stereo channels into one PBTL channel and now the sub-woofer channel, which you did not change, does not work?
Try to remove the jumpers at the output and see if the amplifier works again (evidently not the channel where you removed the filter chokes)?
The ticking sound is an indication of overload and an overload circuit being invoked.
Your "switch" I am not sure how is connected.
For the filter components: If you intend to use the amplifier board as two PBTL channels for stereo in the future, it is best to eliminate the filter all together.
It is not possible you have swapped the jumpers at the output around?
We agree that you changed the stereo channels into one PBTL channel and now the sub-woofer channel, which you did not change, does not work?
Try to remove the jumpers at the output and see if the amplifier works again (evidently not the channel where you removed the filter chokes)?
The ticking sound is an indication of overload and an overload circuit being invoked.
Your "switch" I am not sure how is connected.
For the filter components: If you intend to use the amplifier board as two PBTL channels for stereo in the future, it is best to eliminate the filter all together.
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I have some experience with fried TPA3116 chips. Disconnect power, inputs and outputs. Use an Ohm-meter and measure the resistance between the power supply terminals, the outputs to negative supply terminal and the outputs to positive supply terminal. If you measure less than 200 Ohm stable at any of these combinations, the chip is most likely fried.
Ok so yes the channel that i didnt do any modifications on is the one that doesnt work now, i measured all the combinations and all of them was in the kilo/mega ohm range so atleast theres that.
I found this video and it seems to be almost the same board but just no bluetooth and he gets the exact same fault as me (but i didnt see any smoke). Dont really know how to troubleshoot.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgG9u403wJc&t=157s
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If all your impedance measurements are OK, the chips may still be working.
When you look for a fault, you use a low supply voltage such that you stress the circuit less. A TPA3116 can work down to 5V. What supplies do you have (need not be very powerful)?
Lately ive been using a 12v adapter for an external harddrive, last time it worked i used a 12v battery but it shouldnt be because of that right(?). I dont really have anything else at the moment without cutting wires.
It is quite difficult to troubleshoot from the distance, so I will give you some advice to help yourself.
Let us start with the assumption that some kind of overload protection takes in.
First step is read the databook very careful where all these inherent overload shutdown mechanisms are explained.
Including extra protection routines during power up.
And then try to evaluate the one that is involved in your case.
For instance I had the case that my TPA3255 pcb would not start.
I found out that on power-up it checks whether any of the speaker output terminals is shorted to GND or PVDD.
After some wondering I discovered a tiny solder blob between one output pin and the adjacent PVDD pin. After its removal the chip worked flawlessly.
To get some insight what's going on you should watch with a scope each speaker out terminal during power up.
Not with auto- but with manual trigger or single sweep.
It will take some trial and error to find the correct settings.
12V will do fine.
On top of voltwide's very competent advice, I will suggest you to try the amplifier connected to the 12V battery through a 10 Ohm resistor. This 10 Ohm resistor allows us to check for unusually high currents. You need to have speakers connected on all outputs but no connection on the inputs.
First measurement, what is the the supply voltage on the side of the 10 Ohm opposite of the battery?
Second measurement, what is the DC voltages on the outputs?
If anything becomes warm, turn off the circuit!
On top of voltwide's very competent advice, I will suggest you to try the amplifier connected to the 12V battery through a 10 Ohm resistor. This 10 Ohm resistor allows us to check for unusually high currents. You need to have speakers connected on all outputs but no connection on the inputs.
First measurement, what is the the supply voltage on the side of the 10 Ohm opposite of the battery?
Second measurement, what is the DC voltages on the outputs?
If anything becomes warm, turn off the circuit!
I cant really try with the battery and a resistor right now but with the 12v adapter i get input voltage of 12.24 and if i measure between gnd and the bad channel the voltage fluctuates between 10 and 0.8 V. The good ones steady at 0.6v
well im a little short on tools so i dont have a oscilloscope to check with.
Edit: nothing gets even remotely hot to the touch
well im a little short on tools so i dont have a oscilloscope to check with.
Edit: nothing gets even remotely hot to the touch
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When the board isnt connected to power no output show continuity to ground but when power is connected all do.
Thank you so much for your patience, i know i might not be the easiest to help
btw sound through the now again stereo channels still works
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When the board isnt connected to power no output show continuity to ground but when power is connected all do.
Thank you so much for your patience, i know i might not be the easiest to help
btw sound through the now again stereo channels still works
So, without power and the speaker connected, measuring from the two sides to the speaker to ground, in no case you get a low impedance reading on your Ohm-meter?
Without power i get no reading on my multimeter with the positive probe on the channel outputs and negative on ground but the other way around i get around 900 kOhm both positive and negative for both stero channels. On the subwoofer channel i get 53.7 kOhm with positive probe on ground and slowly rising.
Nothing indicating a defect chip yet.
The stereo channel you redesigned still works, right? Is it at present in the PBTL-mode (redesigned) or did you bring it back to the original stereo mode?
The way to examine the board further is to disconnect the output filter on the channel that does not work. You need not remove the chokes completely, just lift (from the PCB) the choke wires on the side towards the TPA3116 chip. Without the output filter and speaker we can examine the chip-behavior on its own.
When you have disconnected the output filter on the defect channel, you only need to connect a speaker on the channel that works.
OK, thanks.
The "negative side" is one of the outputs of the defect amplifier and the "positive side" is the other output of the defect amplifier?
If so, it shows that the "negative side" of the defect amplifier is repeatedly shut down. The "positive side" looks worse in the sense that it remains low and could be the reason why the protection is invoked. Will you please measure, without power, the impedance between the "positive side" (the PCB pad being connected to the chip output) and ground?
Please measure the voltages, with power, on the outputs of the good amplifier (each speaker terminal)? They should be around 6V to ground without an input signal.
Next, on the whole amplifier board with the 10 Ohm inserted between the amplifier board and the battery, please measure the voltage on the resistor side toward the amplifier. We need to know how much current the amplifier board is drawing and if it follows the swing in the output voltage of the "negative side".
The "negative side" is one of the outputs of the defect amplifier and the "positive side" is the other output of the defect amplifier?
If so, it shows that the "negative side" of the defect amplifier is repeatedly shut down. The "positive side" looks worse in the sense that it remains low and could be the reason why the protection is invoked. Will you please measure, without power, the impedance between the "positive side" (the PCB pad being connected to the chip output) and ground?
Please measure the voltages, with power, on the outputs of the good amplifier (each speaker terminal)? They should be around 6V to ground without an input signal.
Next, on the whole amplifier board with the 10 Ohm inserted between the amplifier board and the battery, please measure the voltage on the resistor side toward the amplifier. We need to know how much current the amplifier board is drawing and if it follows the swing in the output voltage of the "negative side".
So yes the positive and negative sides are the output for the speaker from the defect board.
Seems like i wasnt really awake when i measured and replied this morning but yes the working chip is back to stereo mode and i misread the voltages. The negative side switches between 10 and 9v, not 0.9v.
I tried moving around the bootstrap capacitors but it makes no difference.
I dont have the battery and resistor at hand but if i use my ampere clamp i get a reading of around 0.09 A.
Seems like i wasnt really awake when i measured and replied this morning but yes the working chip is back to stereo mode and i misread the voltages. The negative side switches between 10 and 9v, not 0.9v.
I tried moving around the bootstrap capacitors but it makes no difference.
I dont have the battery and resistor at hand but if i use my ampere clamp i get a reading of around 0.09 A.