Shironator, I was just looking at the Aiyima board you linked to in post 10624. The pic of the bottom shows some solder pads next to pads labeled S4. It looks like you can change the gain by bridging the solder pads. See instructions in box next to this pad. I don't understand the shorthand instructions but a little experimenting might be worthwhile and you might not have to mess iwth the gain setting resistors on the top side.
I already did that in the first place.
These pads are for possibility to set it to PBTL mode and to change gain between 26 or 32dB.
I have choose such amp because this possibilities of easy configurability.
I have it in PBTL mode and Gain is at 32dB already.
And it is not sufficient, because my input signal from AV receiver is simply too weak.
These pads are for possibility to set it to PBTL mode and to change gain between 26 or 32dB.
I have choose such amp because this possibilities of easy configurability.
I have it in PBTL mode and Gain is at 32dB already.
And it is not sufficient, because my input signal from AV receiver is simply too weak.
Did you try the headphone output? I use a headphone amplifier and that one has enough output for most.
I need it as amp for my passive subwoofer. Putting there any other output, than subwoofer pre-out is pointless.
When I did general testing of the amp, I have playing some music from old mp3 player and then smartphone - froom thei headphone outputs. The smartphone can make way louder sound than old mp3 player. I guess it was because its headphone output can do stronger levels.
However, I have found some preamp which looks very promising
power supply: 10-30VDC / 10mA
adjustable output level: max. 40dB
frequency range: 20Hz to 20kHz ± 3dB
max. input signal: 40mV
When I did general testing of the amp, I have playing some music from old mp3 player and then smartphone - froom thei headphone outputs. The smartphone can make way louder sound than old mp3 player. I guess it was because its headphone output can do stronger levels.
However, I have found some preamp which looks very promising
power supply: 10-30VDC / 10mA
adjustable output level: max. 40dB
frequency range: 20Hz to 20kHz ± 3dB
max. input signal: 40mV
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"I need it as amp for my passive subwoofer. Putting there any other output, than subwoofer pre-out is pointless. "
Why?
If you add a low pass filter and a level/volume control if your amp does not have one and the receiver does not have a volume control for the headphone out.
I used this https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-9-32V-Single-Low-Power-Pass-Pre-AMP-Filter-Bass-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Board/232403675595? with the red mono tpa3116 board, to hook up a passive sub to the headphone out of an old receiver from a friend.
Other option is to add a pre amp in between the sub pre out and the sub amp, like FauxFrench already suggested in this post TPA3116D2 Amp I guess you can use the same pre amp board for this.
Why?
If you add a low pass filter and a level/volume control if your amp does not have one and the receiver does not have a volume control for the headphone out.
I used this https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-9-32V-Single-Low-Power-Pass-Pre-AMP-Filter-Bass-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Board/232403675595? with the red mono tpa3116 board, to hook up a passive sub to the headphone out of an old receiver from a friend.
Other option is to add a pre amp in between the sub pre out and the sub amp, like FauxFrench already suggested in this post TPA3116D2 Amp I guess you can use the same pre amp board for this.
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"I used this https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-9-32V-Single-Low-Power-Pass-Pre-AMP-Filter-Bass-Subwoofer-Amplifier-Board/232403675595? with the red mono tpa3116 board, to hook up a passive sub to the headphone out of an old receiver from a friend."
-- I see meaning of this only in case that he have small speakers and wanted to have deeper bass which those small speakers are not capable of. But essentially, it is only boosting low frequencies from regular fullrange sound.
It cannot be compared with dedicated subwoofer channel from DD 5.1 system.
You are right, and I already working on getting preamp like I written before. Its aleady on the way. I suppose that it will amplify my weak input signal enough, that my current TPA3116 will then produce loud sound as I want.
-- I see meaning of this only in case that he have small speakers and wanted to have deeper bass which those small speakers are not capable of. But essentially, it is only boosting low frequencies from regular fullrange sound.
It cannot be compared with dedicated subwoofer channel from DD 5.1 system.
You are right, and I already working on getting preamp like I written before. Its aleady on the way. I suppose that it will amplify my weak input signal enough, that my current TPA3116 will then produce loud sound as I want.
AVR is okay. With my old 35W amp it worked just fine. The problem is with this TPA3116. Apparently its subwoofer pre-out output level is too low for it. Altought its rated at 1.5V max . 2.2kOhm.
Even if I max out subwoofer pre-out level in its settings, and set TPA3116 to 100% volume, it is hardly at same volume at old 35W amp.
Even if I max out subwoofer pre-out level in its settings, and set TPA3116 to 100% volume, it is hardly at same volume at old 35W amp.
At Vmax = 20V (for 24V PSU?) you get 14Vrms which is 25W/8 ohm. My TPA3116 powered by 20V does 18W/8ohm Adding an Amp into Thin-Client PC
So I'm about done with my 3116's!
Blew up another chip on a PBTL board
TPA3116D2 DC24V 2x 100W two-channel stereo Class D digital audio amplifier board
TPA3116D2 DC24V 2x 100W two channel stereo Class D digital audio amplifier board-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
so that is now mono!. Had a 4.7k R intending on trying to eliminate the hiss at the volume pot but not really knowing what i was doing and prodding about .....blew the thing. But none of the combinations on the volume pot before the blow seemed to quiten it down anyway. So another waste of time and money there!
The other 3116 i bought...
XH-M573 TPA3116D2 80W 80W 100W 2.1 Channel TPA3116 digital Power Amplifier Board Bass Subwoofer hifi amplifiers
XH M573 TPA3116D2 80W+80W+100W 2.1 Channel TPA3116 digital Power Amplifier Board Bass Subwoofer hifi amplifiers-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
.suppose it's a 2.1. Noise floor on the bass channel is horrendous and unusable. Noise on stereo is worse than the first board. Sounds nice once volume is up and you juggle various source/amp levels but I concede on trying to quiten these things down.
The tda7498 from same seller is very quiet. Just a little turn on snap
Blew up another chip on a PBTL board
TPA3116D2 DC24V 2x 100W two-channel stereo Class D digital audio amplifier board
TPA3116D2 DC24V 2x 100W two channel stereo Class D digital audio amplifier board-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
so that is now mono!. Had a 4.7k R intending on trying to eliminate the hiss at the volume pot but not really knowing what i was doing and prodding about .....blew the thing. But none of the combinations on the volume pot before the blow seemed to quiten it down anyway. So another waste of time and money there!
The other 3116 i bought...
XH-M573 TPA3116D2 80W 80W 100W 2.1 Channel TPA3116 digital Power Amplifier Board Bass Subwoofer hifi amplifiers
XH M573 TPA3116D2 80W+80W+100W 2.1 Channel TPA3116 digital Power Amplifier Board Bass Subwoofer hifi amplifiers-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
.suppose it's a 2.1. Noise floor on the bass channel is horrendous and unusable. Noise on stereo is worse than the first board. Sounds nice once volume is up and you juggle various source/amp levels but I concede on trying to quiten these things down.
The tda7498 from same seller is very quiet. Just a little turn on snap
Interesting that all the boards that hiss have open-core chokes, whereas the quiet one has closed-core chokes (even though dirt cheap CDRH127s).
My TPA with closed cores DC 12V 24V TPA3116 Dual Channel Stereo 50W*2 BTL Mono 100W Audio Amplifier Board 9934840364132 | eBay (the red sanwu board) is dead quiet. I do not know if the open/closed cores is the cause, just finding correlations.
Notice also the short traces from input terminals to the chip (unlike all the boards with built-in potentiometer). IMO all this counts.
My TPA with closed cores DC 12V 24V TPA3116 Dual Channel Stereo 50W*2 BTL Mono 100W Audio Amplifier Board 9934840364132 | eBay (the red sanwu board) is dead quiet. I do not know if the open/closed cores is the cause, just finding correlations.
Notice also the short traces from input terminals to the chip (unlike all the boards with built-in potentiometer). IMO all this counts.
Hi guys, I'm not understanding the power output rating of the tpa3118 with regards to supply voltage. I read the datasheet, so far what I learned was that the output power goes down with the increase in R(load)
e.g.at load=4ohms & Vin at 18V the max output is 35W at 1%THD
and at load=8ohms & Vin at 18V the max output is ~18W at 1% THD
I have the blue 3118 PBTL boards that are rated for 60W max & I guess that rating is at 4ohm & 24V? So how much current does the power supply need be capable of supplying to get in that 60W range?
I've run mine at 12V & 19V(also at 21V) into a 4ohm & 16ohm loads. I redid the gain on these to be ~25dB as well. My psu I'm using with it has max rating of 2A. Since my electronics knowledge is bad, I'm guessing the speakers are going to require a certain amount of current, this depends on the sensitivity rating of the speakers too I suppose(?). So what range of current rating does this board work best with, the datasheet specifies ~7A as over current limit.
Anyways, how do I calculated the power value that the board is putting out say if my psu had a rating of 5A max & 24V(~21V) into different load values, like 4,6,8,16 etc? The datasheet doesn't mention max impedance rating that can be used with these chips, there are nominal & minimum values given. I would like to calculate it myself or if you guys already know then could you tell me what the output power values through different loads I mentioned. Thanks.
e.g.at load=4ohms & Vin at 18V the max output is 35W at 1%THD
and at load=8ohms & Vin at 18V the max output is ~18W at 1% THD
I have the blue 3118 PBTL boards that are rated for 60W max & I guess that rating is at 4ohm & 24V? So how much current does the power supply need be capable of supplying to get in that 60W range?
I've run mine at 12V & 19V(also at 21V) into a 4ohm & 16ohm loads. I redid the gain on these to be ~25dB as well. My psu I'm using with it has max rating of 2A. Since my electronics knowledge is bad, I'm guessing the speakers are going to require a certain amount of current, this depends on the sensitivity rating of the speakers too I suppose(?). So what range of current rating does this board work best with, the datasheet specifies ~7A as over current limit.
Anyways, how do I calculated the power value that the board is putting out say if my psu had a rating of 5A max & 24V(~21V) into different load values, like 4,6,8,16 etc? The datasheet doesn't mention max impedance rating that can be used with these chips, there are nominal & minimum values given. I would like to calculate it myself or if you guys already know then could you tell me what the output power values through different loads I mentioned. Thanks.
....at load=4ohms & Vin at 18V the max output is 35W at 1%THD
and at load=8ohms & Vin at 18V the max output is ~18W at 1% THD
Absolutely right, double the speaker impedance -> half the output power.
I have the blue 3118 PBTL boards that are rated for 60W max & I guess that rating is at 4ohm & 24V?
Yes!
So how much current does the power supply need be capable of supplying to get in that 60W range?
The easiest way of making that calculation is by using the knowledge that a class D amplifier has an efficiency above 80%, typically around 90%.
So, a quick estimate 60W/80%=75W. With 24V, 3A. Two amplifiers on the same supply, 6A. Taking the music crest-factor into account, you can do with 5A or even 4A.
I've run mine at 12V & 19V(also at 21V) into a 4ohm & 16ohm loads. I redid the gain on these to be ~25dB as well. My psu I'm using with it has max rating of 2A. Since my electronics knowledge is bad, I'm guessing the speakers are going to require a certain amount of current, this depends on the sensitivity rating of the speakers too I suppose(?). So what range of current rating does this board work best with, the datasheet specifies ~7A as over current limit.
It works best with any peak current below 7A (typical).
The current needed is decided by the voltage across the speakers and the impedance of the speakers. Amplifiers are voltage controlled and the current is the result of the voltage and impedance (Ohm's Law). An amplifier can supply a certain output voltage (AC), depending on the supply voltage and current rating. That voltage goes to the speaker and, depending on the sensitivity of your speaker, you get a loud or weak sound. If the sound level is not enough, get other speakers or a more powerful amplifier.
Speaker sensitivity is not an active parameter when controlling an amplifier. Not fully true: Philips made many years ago an active speaker with sound-level feedback. That is the only one I know of.
Anyways, how do I calculated the power value that the board is putting out say if my psu had a rating of 5A max & 24V(~21V) into different load values, like 4,6,8,16 etc? The datasheet doesn't mention max impedance rating that can be used with these chips, there are nominal & minimum values given. I would like to calculate it myself or if you guys already know then could you tell me what the output power values through different loads I mentioned. Thanks.
Later today I will post an explanation about the relation-ship between supply voltage, speaker impedance, amplifier output power and the current rating of the power supply. Then, you can try yourself.
and at load=8ohms & Vin at 18V the max output is ~18W at 1% THD
Absolutely right, double the speaker impedance -> half the output power.
I have the blue 3118 PBTL boards that are rated for 60W max & I guess that rating is at 4ohm & 24V?
Yes!
So how much current does the power supply need be capable of supplying to get in that 60W range?
The easiest way of making that calculation is by using the knowledge that a class D amplifier has an efficiency above 80%, typically around 90%.
So, a quick estimate 60W/80%=75W. With 24V, 3A. Two amplifiers on the same supply, 6A. Taking the music crest-factor into account, you can do with 5A or even 4A.
I've run mine at 12V & 19V(also at 21V) into a 4ohm & 16ohm loads. I redid the gain on these to be ~25dB as well. My psu I'm using with it has max rating of 2A. Since my electronics knowledge is bad, I'm guessing the speakers are going to require a certain amount of current, this depends on the sensitivity rating of the speakers too I suppose(?). So what range of current rating does this board work best with, the datasheet specifies ~7A as over current limit.
It works best with any peak current below 7A (typical).
The current needed is decided by the voltage across the speakers and the impedance of the speakers. Amplifiers are voltage controlled and the current is the result of the voltage and impedance (Ohm's Law). An amplifier can supply a certain output voltage (AC), depending on the supply voltage and current rating. That voltage goes to the speaker and, depending on the sensitivity of your speaker, you get a loud or weak sound. If the sound level is not enough, get other speakers or a more powerful amplifier.
Speaker sensitivity is not an active parameter when controlling an amplifier. Not fully true: Philips made many years ago an active speaker with sound-level feedback. That is the only one I know of.
Anyways, how do I calculated the power value that the board is putting out say if my psu had a rating of 5A max & 24V(~21V) into different load values, like 4,6,8,16 etc? The datasheet doesn't mention max impedance rating that can be used with these chips, there are nominal & minimum values given. I would like to calculate it myself or if you guys already know then could you tell me what the output power values through different loads I mentioned. Thanks.
Later today I will post an explanation about the relation-ship between supply voltage, speaker impedance, amplifier output power and the current rating of the power supply. Then, you can try yourself.
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I am sorry to hear you lost a channel. It cannot be the 4K7 on the output of the volume potentiometer that destroys the chip. You must have made another connection accidentally without being aware.
Today, I took my two TPA3116 boards with 4K7 resistors just to make sure the hiss is gone. I hear no hiss (anymore) even with my ears just in front of the speakers.
For my third type of TPA3116 board, I simply lowered the gain which also works.
