Thanks for the fast answer
I am going to build a mono portable battery powered speaker using a MiniDSP and a TPA3116, and i want to be able to power a sub, using one of the output channels.
Thanks, I will.
Thanks. How do I calculate which resistor to use to damp a unused output?
I guess that would increase the power consumption quite a bit, and since this setup will run on batteries it could be a problem.
Remove the input connector on the amp (de-solder) board. Cut off one end of the connecting cable and strip the wires. Solder the wires directly into the amp board.
Ohh boy, I was kinda hoping to get another connector suggestion
I have no soldering machine, nothing. Then you may ask why am I in this forum? I will get my uncle's soldering tools Thanks!
I had bad luck removing the hiss from my dual chip tpa3116 boards. People keep advising me to buy the Sanwu tpa3118 mono boards, but they do not have a heatsink and are rated lower in power in datasheet.
I stumbled across these boards, also at a fairly cheap price. But I cannot find anything in here about them.
DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Mono Channel Digital Power Audio Amplifier Board BTL Max 100W | eBay
I ended up ordering 2 of each. 2 tpa3118 and 2 tpa3116 mono boards. Will listen for the difference.
I stumbled across these boards, also at a fairly cheap price. But I cannot find anything in here about them.
DC 12V-24V TPA3116 Mono Channel Digital Power Audio Amplifier Board BTL Max 100W | eBay
I ended up ordering 2 of each. 2 tpa3118 and 2 tpa3116 mono boards. Will listen for the difference.
I have one... works great to feed a 18' professionnal long excursion loudspeaker whithout heating, totally impressed (zero huming noise and hissing at all... deadly silent even very close to the loudspeaker).
Be careful... this board is designed with a balanced input.
I've experienced a slight tad of humming by doing this... but it was with a 96Db loudspeaker without passive crossover.
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Try something from this search.
I don't know what the small connector is, the larger connector, on your amp board, is a JST XH 2.54 3-pin connector. They are commonly used for battery pack balancing connections for by RC hobbyists. The visual difference, between that and the cable you bought is that the smaller connector has a single keyed ridge/slot down the center. The larger connector has two on the sides that also integrate a latch for retention.
If you order a different cable, get a soldering iron anyway
They don't have an obvious heatsink, because the heatsink is the PCB. The thermal pad is on the bottom, its soldered to a pad on the PCB which is connected to the ground-plane on the bottom of the PCB by a bunch of vias. They don't throw off a lot of heat anyway. I have a TPA3116 board with a tiny heatsink. It doesn't get very hot.
I got one of these Sanwu boards last week from a different seller. My board came in a sealed antistatic bag with a Sanwu seal on it. I haven't bothered checking their validation tool to see if its legit. I suspect it is. The TPA3118 boards I got didn't bother faking it. They just use the same blue PCB and layout as the Sanwu boards, down to the crosshatched groundplane and the solid groundplane for the silkscreened Sanwu logo, only they don't have the silkscreened Sanwu logo.
I don't have much to report. It works. It sounds very similar to my blue ZD-TPA3116 board. It has anti-pop that works. Build quality seems a little better than the ZD-TPA3116. As noted, it has jumper points for setting it up as a mono PBTL board. There are also pads for muting. Gain is fixed. I haven't checked to see what its set at, but its the same as the ZD-TPA3116. 26dB gain is my guess.
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Try something from this search.
I don't know what the small connector is, the larger connector, on your amp board, is a JST XH 2.54 3-pin connector. They are commonly used for battery pack balancing connections for by RC hobbyists. The visual difference, between that and the cable you bought is that the smaller connector has a single keyed ridge/slot down the center. The larger connector has two on the sides that also integrate a latch for retention.
If you order a different cable, get a soldering iron anyway
I have it soldered in two minutes. Didn't even remove the input connecter from the board. It works fine. Thanks for all the help!
However, I didn't hear big increase in power versus the TPA3116 I have with 12V. The TDA7498 is running with 24V. Also, I THINK the bass is better on the TPA3116. It may need to break in more maybe.
I had similar issues with an MP3/FLAC player module I bought. The smaller ones on the converter board are JST PH.... With a 2mm spacing.
J.