I have one of these. Changed those 1uf to 10uf (don't forget those in sub filter output - this board has original better frequency response in stereo than in sub channel because if these caps! ! ! ).
Will change frequency cutoff to 80Hz.
Don't forget these boards have both ICs in master mode. One must be changed to slave to avoid a nasty ground noise they have.
Will change frequency cutoff to 80Hz.
Don't forget these boards have both ICs in master mode. One must be changed to slave to avoid a nasty ground noise they have.
I'm using the existing HP on the sub channel to control excursion on my sub woofer in my 2.1 boombox system. But I may change out the caps to see how well the woofer does.
I've only looked at the signal paths, not the actual chip implementation. Do you have any instructions, etc. for chaning the ".1" chip to slave mode?
I've a YJ black/blue board just received (bought off YJ directly) and it doesn't appear to work well. When turning on the amp with an input source on, there is sound for about one second through right channel only, then it cuts out. Left channel is completely silent. Any ideas what could cause this and what could I check? Thanks.
A kind soul at audiokarma helped me to troubleshoot this particular board and it looks like a bum one. Hope YJ comes through with replacing it but they're quite unresponsive, as others have said as well in this thread.
Anyhow I was looking at some eBay tube pre stages, as based on what I've been reading here they match well with the TPA3116 boards. The Nobsound recommended by PoultryGeist is not available here and I'm looking at these boards:
M7C (12AX7 Tube Valve Preamplifier DIY Kit, Based on Marantz 7C (Stereo) No Tube
which appears to be based on the Marantz 7 design, as is the Nobsound one.
Then there is another one which I think I've come across before here
Buffer 6N3 Preamp Tube Amplifier AMP Pre-Amplifier Matisse Kit 170V Transformer
which looks like the same one YJ is selling (but I'll hold off on ordering anything from them for now until there's some movement in the blue/black board replacement)...
And two more that look interesting, one is a buffer
6N3 (5670) Tube Valve Buffer DIY Kit (Stereo)
that looks to be made with decent components and the last one is a Little Bear one
Little bear P3 6N3 tube valve preamp amplifier preamplifier CLASS A new Ver1.2
which also looks decently made, as far as I can tell.
Any particular one that can be recommended, or would any one of these work?
If Op_2b is to generate a negative half of a balanced signal it should be set to a gain of -1...no filtering.
The 6n3 Matisse circuit preamp is a fine match for my TPA3116's. I have the 3 tube version as well but prefer the 2 tube. Sounds best with Russian 6n3p-ev's.
EMI Snubber Components
I am in the throes of rebuilding another YJ board and was wondering if i can swap capacitor type (from film to ceramic) and the resistor value in the EMI snubber section of the board (using stock 10uh inductor value). And if so, would the swap be detrimental to things ? (another binned board ?)
In a snubber circuit, would a ceramic capacitor beneficial over a film one ?
Current component type and value..
C30, C31 : 1nf film capacitor
C34, C37 : 10nf film capacitor
R15, R16: 4.7ohm. <== The TI layout and the weiner boards seem to be set with 3.3 ohm.
Swapped components ?
C30, C31 : 1nf, 50v X7R monolithic capacitor
C34, C37 : 10nf, 50v X7R monolithic capacitor
R15, R16: 3.3ohm. 0.6W Metal Film resistor
Thanks.
I am in the throes of rebuilding another YJ board and was wondering if i can swap capacitor type (from film to ceramic) and the resistor value in the EMI snubber section of the board (using stock 10uh inductor value). And if so, would the swap be detrimental to things ? (another binned board ?)
In a snubber circuit, would a ceramic capacitor beneficial over a film one ?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Current component type and value..
C30, C31 : 1nf film capacitor
C34, C37 : 10nf film capacitor
R15, R16: 4.7ohm. <== The TI layout and the weiner boards seem to be set with 3.3 ohm.
Swapped components ?
C30, C31 : 1nf, 50v X7R monolithic capacitor
C34, C37 : 10nf, 50v X7R monolithic capacitor
R15, R16: 3.3ohm. 0.6W Metal Film resistor
Thanks.
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+1 from me, I also use that preamp to spice up my D-amp. About the Russian tube, does it really make a difference from the stock tube? Can you elaborate a bit how it differs? Thanks!
Still no result, he responded but with no real solution, just buying time, it feels. We are here to help, please keep in touch, that sort of things.
The stock Chinese tubes vary in quality. Mine were not great but yours could be better.
The short vintage tubes I tried, Tung Sol and GE JAN 5670 sounded richer with more warmth and the much cheaper Russians delivered more of the same.
The best 6n3 replacement is the WE 396A/2C51 hands down but they'll cost $100 a pair.
I second Poultry Geist's suggestion.
I have the two tube version also. Sounds great with all the chip and class D amps I own. It runs quietly and yes, I think it sounds best with Russian military 6N3 tubes. I've tried more expensive tubes, but didn't see much of a difference frankly.
You can't beat the price of it, and it's easy to assemble.
MW
The 6n3 Matisse circuit preamp is a fine match for my TPA3116's. I have the 3 tube version as well but prefer the 2 tube. Sounds best with Russian 6n3p-ev's.
I have the two tube version also. Sounds great with all the chip and class D amps I own. It runs quietly and yes, I think it sounds best with Russian military 6N3 tubes. I've tried more expensive tubes, but didn't see much of a difference frankly.
You can't beat the price of it, and it's easy to assemble.
MW
Tried ordering a board called HIFI 2.0 TPA3116 X2. Only one seller on ebay has them. I'm not really an expert on boards and circuits, but isnt this board with snubber circuit? I would also like to hear why it has all those small thru hole capacitors.
As usual, as with almost ALL other cheap class D board, the gain is WAY WAY to high. I can turn it up about 5% before it plays LOUD. Also from 5% and up it has the classic hiss. Will be lowering gain when I played with it a little.
With my Aune X1s DAC.
Board:
As usual, as with almost ALL other cheap class D board, the gain is WAY WAY to high. I can turn it up about 5% before it plays LOUD. Also from 5% and up it has the classic hiss. Will be lowering gain when I played with it a little.
With my Aune X1s DAC.
Board:
Thanks Poultrygeist. I will play around with it eventually. ��
Have you tried op amp based pre in front of the 3116? I am getting a 5532 kit as a part of the refund/replace scheme from that ebay seller. I'll send the input to the preamp (5532) then its output goes to the 3116 dual chip board. The volume pot stays in the power amp board while the pre amp has a fixed gain of 5x. Is that a good approach?
Have you tried op amp based pre in front of the 3116? I am getting a 5532 kit as a part of the refund/replace scheme from that ebay seller. I'll send the input to the preamp (5532) then its output goes to the 3116 dual chip board. The volume pot stays in the power amp board while the pre amp has a fixed gain of 5x. Is that a good approach?
I recently discovered the TPA3116D2 and must admit that I am amazed at the quality of teh output from these tiny doohickeys.
My bedroom has a pair of KEF Q5s being driven by a Marantz PM17 and it was amazing to see a 1000INR board match up to the performance.
I do have a few silly questions though and would love to hear the views from the learned folks around here.
I decided to put the amp to good use by setting it up to upgrade my kitchen audio (it seems that is where I end up listening to most of my music - while cooking)
I had a pair of rather poor sounding JBL voyagers (selected because of the space constraints)
Now that I don't have to create space for a large and heavy amp, I replaced them with a pair of Boston Acoustics A26 speakers wired to the TPA3116 board (Dual TPA3116D2 XH-M190 board) powered by an old mac mini power brick.
The source is a Google chromecast audio.
The setup sounds quite good to my untrained ears and incidentally even creates a decent soundstage especially when I am standing in front of the stovetop
Here are the questions - Please bear in mind that the Amp is hidden away and left always on so that I can cast music to the chromecast right away.
Q1) Do I need to put in a BTL speaker protection board? Or is the protection on the TPA3116D2 good enough. I really wouldn't want to burn out the bookshelves that cost a good 20x more than the board.
Q2) With the amp on, I measured around 10mV on the speaker posts - I can hear a very faint hiss but only if I bring my ears close to the tweeters. With the 24x7 hiss, is there any chance I could be damaging my speakers, esp the tweeters in the long run ?
My bedroom has a pair of KEF Q5s being driven by a Marantz PM17 and it was amazing to see a 1000INR board match up to the performance.
I do have a few silly questions though and would love to hear the views from the learned folks around here.
I decided to put the amp to good use by setting it up to upgrade my kitchen audio (it seems that is where I end up listening to most of my music - while cooking)
I had a pair of rather poor sounding JBL voyagers (selected because of the space constraints)
Now that I don't have to create space for a large and heavy amp, I replaced them with a pair of Boston Acoustics A26 speakers wired to the TPA3116 board (Dual TPA3116D2 XH-M190 board) powered by an old mac mini power brick.
The source is a Google chromecast audio.
The setup sounds quite good to my untrained ears and incidentally even creates a decent soundstage especially when I am standing in front of the stovetop
Here are the questions - Please bear in mind that the Amp is hidden away and left always on so that I can cast music to the chromecast right away.
Q1) Do I need to put in a BTL speaker protection board? Or is the protection on the TPA3116D2 good enough. I really wouldn't want to burn out the bookshelves that cost a good 20x more than the board.
Q2) With the amp on, I measured around 10mV on the speaker posts - I can hear a very faint hiss but only if I bring my ears close to the tweeters. With the 24x7 hiss, is there any chance I could be damaging my speakers, esp the tweeters in the long run ?