On hybrid electrostatic speakers two PBTL 3116 do better than most commercial amps, I am trying 4 PBTL at the moment to see if that improves SQ. Power isn't an issue with ultra low impedance electrostatic part at 82dB efficiency, it is a little with matching dynamic/cone sub part of speaker.
***
Good news, thanks. I'll be interested to hear how 4 PBTL amps compare to 2 stereo BTL amps.
SMSL60 volume going to zero might be POP related design. If you look at datasheet for chip they use you might be able to change that, but does POP stay away then???
you'll really need several meanwells imho, curious if you come to same conclusion if you listen on harder speakers, TI's 8A PSU advice isn't really strange, most here do same thing we say commercial amp makers shouldn't do, use too small PSU's, when breaking down an amp we often conclude PSU is far too small and limits amp, making our own amps we do exactly the same here LOL
The SMSL SA-60 60WPC TPA3116 amp at the moment is on sale $60:
SMSL SA-60 60WPC TPA3116 Class D Digital Amplifier HiFi Air Core Inductance Desktop Amplifier - Professional Audio Store - Shenzhenaudio.com
SMSL SA-60 60WPC TPA3116 Class D Digital Amplifier HiFi Air Core Inductance Desktop Amplifier - Professional Audio Store - Shenzhenaudio.com
Probably sounds great but has smart volume via op amp and rotary encoder. Always turns on at min volume.
***
Yes, Irribeo, that was exactly my thought, that the design is as much for "pop" prevention as to guard against user error. I do plan to try to figure out what's going on with the volume control chip they have used and see if I can change its operation so it comes up with full volume after an initial delay.
hello. i'm newbie.. i just finished my TPA3116D2 Amplifier with 2.1 system. but i still test it on my altec lansing speaker. for me the sound is very good. i have question, what speaker that suitable for this amplifier. also do you have preamp circuits for 2.1 speaker system? please advice. thank you
This amp can power any speaker as long as you are happy with the 40 watts limit. Given this limit, the use of full range speakers or high sensitivity speakers is often advised. The mini Karlsonator is an example of a speaker that many people have built and use the 3116 to power with good success.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/239338-mini-karlsonator-0-53x-dual-tc9fds.html
If you are relatively new at building speakers I would recommend the 0.4x scale Karlsonator with the Vifa TC9FD driver. It is low cost and easy to make. If you have access to foam core boards or even cardboard it can be made and sounds unbelievably good for a $12 speaker. You also make it out of thin plywood or even MDF as some have done.
Here is the 0.4x Karlsonator:
This speaker also works well with a Faital Pro 3FE25 which sounds similar to the Vifa but louder by 6dB. Here is measured response.
Another is the FH3 with an Alpair 7.3 driver:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/172605-frugel-horn-mk3.html
I use it to power all my speaker projects including Synergy and even tapped horns. It is an excellent amp to use with a miniDSP for an active speaker aystem.
For 2.1 you can use a miniDSP with the 2.1 plugin and that is a flexible preamp XO system. You could also just make your own op amp based summing junction buffer and low pass filter. The easest thing is to buy a premade 2.1 3116 amp for $30.
Good luck.
Last edited:
A new review just popped up on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PA3USCM/ref=cm_cd_asin_lnk
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PA3USCM/ref=cm_cd_asin_lnk
Well. if anything else sounds good, why not selling the 805? 🙄
.. Expensive speakers, cheap low grade chinese amps, which needs to get "modded" to "sound good".. Oh well..
:thumbup:
If you have sa60 open, could you make a picture that shows a little more than shenzen pictures ? 🙂
***
The 805 is like a very difficult, high-maintenance woman who requires that you meet her impossible standards all the time. It's a pain - but ultimately worth it.
Many amps sound terrible on the 805. Few sound good. But the ones that do, that gives her what she wants, yields an incredible reward in sound quality.
The 3116-based SA-60 did better than most amps, regardless of price. I want to try a pair in biamped configuration to see how they do.
***
Haven't had a chance to open the case yet but when I do I'll take and post pics here.
Feels like it's been too long without pics being posted in this thread.
Here's my second build using the new Sure tpa3110 amp. The only mods are replacing all the electrolytic caps with fancy organic polymer caps. The Panasonic OSCONs have been the favorite in this thread; and in fact I used those on my first build with this board. Based on irribeo's suggestion a while back, I spent the big bucks on these Nichicon NU-series "FPCAP" capacitors (part number RNU1E331MDN1PH). I'm not sure they were worth 2x the cost of the OSCONs. Nothing wrong with them, of course, but I don't believe I'm hearing any improvement over the Panasonics.
(FWIW, I also added additional terminal blocks and removed the on-board RCA connectors.)
Anyway, I took my time and tried to do neater work than I usually do. I'm happy with the result. Only real problem is the speaker binding post holes weren't drilled perfectly straight, so one "leans" into the other one. (All aluminum was drilled with a handheld drill, no drill press.)
I also sourced my RCAs and speaker binding posts from Mouser when I ordered the caps. These were a little more spendy than the cheap no-name ones I usually get from ebay. I don't know if they sound any better, but they are certainly heavier. Something to be said for that, maybe?
The switch just opens and closes the connection between "SD" and "GND". Close the connection to put the amp in "shutdown" mode and prevent turn-on/turn-off pops and thumps.
Anyway, enjoy the pics!
Here's my second build using the new Sure tpa3110 amp. The only mods are replacing all the electrolytic caps with fancy organic polymer caps. The Panasonic OSCONs have been the favorite in this thread; and in fact I used those on my first build with this board. Based on irribeo's suggestion a while back, I spent the big bucks on these Nichicon NU-series "FPCAP" capacitors (part number RNU1E331MDN1PH). I'm not sure they were worth 2x the cost of the OSCONs. Nothing wrong with them, of course, but I don't believe I'm hearing any improvement over the Panasonics.
(FWIW, I also added additional terminal blocks and removed the on-board RCA connectors.)
Anyway, I took my time and tried to do neater work than I usually do. I'm happy with the result. Only real problem is the speaker binding post holes weren't drilled perfectly straight, so one "leans" into the other one. (All aluminum was drilled with a handheld drill, no drill press.)
I also sourced my RCAs and speaker binding posts from Mouser when I ordered the caps. These were a little more spendy than the cheap no-name ones I usually get from ebay. I don't know if they sound any better, but they are certainly heavier. Something to be said for that, maybe?
The switch just opens and closes the connection between "SD" and "GND". Close the connection to put the amp in "shutdown" mode and prevent turn-on/turn-off pops and thumps.
Anyway, enjoy the pics!
Attachments
Very nice work! I would buy this if they were sold premade. 😀
I have one question though: the outputs are labeled +, -, -, + is this correct? Because the chips always output -, +, -, + based on input pins for single-ended unbalanced inputs having positive located towards pin 1. The output pins follow and never cross - unless a fancy multilayer board with vias is used. I know this was a problem on the 3116 board from Sure. Is it also a problem on the 3110?
I have one question though: the outputs are labeled +, -, -, + is this correct? Because the chips always output -, +, -, + based on input pins for single-ended unbalanced inputs having positive located towards pin 1. The output pins follow and never cross - unless a fancy multilayer board with vias is used. I know this was a problem on the 3116 board from Sure. Is it also a problem on the 3110?
Last edited:
It sounds like the reviewer preferred the Q5 to the SA-60 when using an analog source. The Q5 needs a digital source to perform at its best. My audiobah TPA3116 with lundahl input transformers hasn't been reconnected since my Q5 arrived (not saying the TPA3116 is bad, just that the Q5 is surprisingly good).
Thanks xrk971 for the advice, its very helpful for me as a beginner.
Its a little bit hard to find vifa speaker in my country, but i found on ebay from USA, and i will try it.
if i use only 2 speaker without sub-woofer, do i have to use preamp?
is the result of TPA3116D2 different when using smd resistor and capacitor?
Very nice work! I would buy this if they were sold premade. 😀
I have one question though: the outputs are labeled +, -, -, + is this correct? Because the chips always output -, +, -, + based on input pins for single-ended unbalanced inputs having positive located towards pin 1. The output pins follow and never cross - unless a fancy multilayer board with vias is used. I know this was a problem on the 3116 board from Sure. Is it also a problem on the 3110?
TPA3110= +--+ for fun I also did with my double PBTL 3110, visual recognition🙂
Attachments
Speakerload. All ST chips I have and I looked at datasheet, this one isn't really different from one in Hifimediy fulldigital amps, all ST chips totally collaps with lower impedances, they run very very hot then and efficiency drops to class AB levels, a 110watt 6 ohm chip delivers less power into 3 ohm load than little Sure3110 (the old filterless tuned down one), ST with boiling heatsink (heatsinksize =YJblue total pcb, yes they can run without heatsink ST's chips, forget low impedance completely then), little Sure without heatsink and without getting even warm to the touch. No bass, no treble compared to 3116/3110 on my speakers, also 4ohm Markaudio is a very difficult load for ST.