Rhing,
Did you try making sure both +/- input caps are the same value? AC439 said in the above post that the turn off thump was due to unbalanced caps. I just got my 330uF OSCON caps today, and also the 3.3uF 250V metalized film caps. The YJ Blueboard has not arrived yet though. Once it arrives, I will listen to it stock for a while and see how it sounds before modding. So you guys are saying that switching the bootstrap caps to 250V XR7 makes a big difference? The TI datasheet for the EVM board says to use a 25V X7R in the BOM. How does going to 250V make it sound better?
Well by shorting the SMSL input and then switching off at least one can be certain what pop-off is from inputcaps and what isn't.
" but found a faint high pitched noise" I heard that with small wima 1uF input caps couple of times too, not sure how I solved it, it is gone, didn't change caps.
Bootstrap TI spec and EVM: 220nF 25V X5R
" but found a faint high pitched noise" I heard that with small wima 1uF input caps couple of times too, not sure how I solved it, it is gone, didn't change caps.
Bootstrap TI spec and EVM: 220nF 25V X5R
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Maybe you just didn't wait long enough for caps to settle down?
An interesting read regarding MKP10
Personally I prefer polystyrene's & propylen's as coupling caps, anywhere anytime.
The size of the pop depends on the size of the input caps, at least in my experience. In one blue/black YJ I have 3.3uf caps and another 2.2uf and the pop from the 2.2uf is no big deal, but that of the 3.3 kind of cuts right through you if you forget to start from zero volume.
For what it is worth, I have had great success with the Wima MKP10 (250V/2.2uf). Zero noise, even with my ear pressed to the speaker. It is a very pleasant sounding cap in this location and I am not planning on changing it out.
The K73-16 PETP was also a nice input cap, but the bass seemed a little attenuated. I will probably play with this one a little longer.
For what it is worth, I have had great success with the Wima MKP10 (250V/2.2uf). Zero noise, even with my ear pressed to the speaker. It is a very pleasant sounding cap in this location and I am not planning on changing it out.
The K73-16 PETP was also a nice input cap, but the bass seemed a little attenuated. I will probably play with this one a little longer.
I finally threw my Helder HiFi TA2020 MkIII board into my test bed rig yesterday and so far it seems like this amp has more bass than the tpa3116.
However, it seems like, to my ear, that it lacks a bit of detail overall.
So, I am wondering if the input caps on the 3116 are throttling the bass a bit?
I was following the spec sheet for each gain setting--1uf for 20db gain on 3116--but would an increase here result in better bass?
Seems pretty noticeable difference to my ear.
and I am sure everybody knows this, but the Helder 2020 sounds MUCH better than the Lepai 2020. Night and day difference. Very nice board.
But still think the 3116 has better overall sound, just gotta get that bass dialed in...
However, it seems like, to my ear, that it lacks a bit of detail overall.
So, I am wondering if the input caps on the 3116 are throttling the bass a bit?
I was following the spec sheet for each gain setting--1uf for 20db gain on 3116--but would an increase here result in better bass?
Seems pretty noticeable difference to my ear.
and I am sure everybody knows this, but the Helder 2020 sounds MUCH better than the Lepai 2020. Night and day difference. Very nice board.
But still think the 3116 has better overall sound, just gotta get that bass dialed in...
Thanks all for compliments.
Rhing: Definitely it sounds better than stock. It has kind of a tube sound but not completely like tube warmth. Hard to describe. I think class D holds its own characteristic.
I think I came across your picture of the SMSL amp. I wonder if they use different cap values for the +/- inputs thus causing turn-off thump. I remember it has a pair of bigger caps for input ?? They probably use a smaller and different value for the (-) inputs.
Like I said, after I put the two (-) input caps to the same value as those on the + side, no more turn-off pops for me.
Just an interesting observation. I have the Breeze 2.1 and recently moved the whole set up to another room where I have a substantial power conditioner that I plug all my equipment into. The bit of treble glare that I had before has completely disappeared. This unmodified Breeze unit has gone from very good to outstanding. Admittedly I am only using the 2 channels and not the sub output as I found it to have too much lower mids getting into my bass driver. The point is for those interested try using a power conditioner and see i you like the results. I know I do.
That's interesting. What power supply are you using?
Over on the AudioCircle tpa3116 thread, I talked about not seeing the profound differences in power supply that others were (specifically, a cheap wall-wart versus the Astron RS-12A).
One of my ideas as to why I'm not hearing much (if any) difference is that my mains AC is conditioned by the APC UPS I plug into. How much conditioning, and to what degree, and how this compares to a purpose-built conditioner, I don't know.
I always run all of my gear via Power-Filter, even that little SMTP 2024, and with all those pre. and amplifiers I have always using good quality power cords with additional alu-shields on connectors. The improvement is tremendous. Or is it just a placebo effect? hmm who knows
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I'm afraid the particular Power Conditioner I use won't be of use to anyone since it was a design product that never made it into production past about 6 units of which I kept 3. However I would think any substantial power line conditioner would have similar results. Of course it can quickly become absurd plugging a $20 - $80 amp module into a $1000 power conditioner. Out of pure convenience I'm using a lap top brick for power supply. Nothing special really just 12v 3amp supply. This all leads me to think that the best bang for the buck use of these little gem amps is with battery power so that all of the trash on the mains lines becomes a non-issue.
I wouldn't call trash something that is in use, and useful. Well of course, someone someday will most certainly find all of these devices we have and collect nothing but dangerous trash that needs special attention and a recycling treatment
Although recommended for these amps also - batteries are not my favorite sources of power. Have more than enough those little dangerous 'bombs' all around - alkaline, NiMh, lithium ,.. for cell phones, tablets, keyboard, mouse, camera,... and then all kind of recharging units,
No, not for audio, not for me, thanks!
Although recommended for these amps also - batteries are not my favorite sources of power. Have more than enough those little dangerous 'bombs' all around - alkaline, NiMh, lithium ,.. for cell phones, tablets, keyboard, mouse, camera,... and then all kind of recharging units,
No, not for audio, not for me, thanks!
Hi guys, can someone suggest a good 2.1 TPA3116?
I've been playing with my 2.1 YJ redboard (the deluxe, with inductors) stock and I like the sound of it.
Now, I'm putting together a sound for my friend. I'm sort of cloning the CBTs (I can arrange for 4ohms or 8 ohms) and have a subwoofer good to go (22hz - 120hz, re=3.4 ohms).
I've listed 4 versions found on Aliexpress.
The YJ redboard deluxe (same as mine, with inductors)
The YJ redboard three pots.
The blueboard, adjustable subwoofer crossover
The blueboard, small circuit + OPA2604, with inductors.
I'm more into acoustic, but swapping components wouldnt be a problem, I like the smell of welding
Any takes?
Thanks.
I've been playing with my 2.1 YJ redboard (the deluxe, with inductors) stock and I like the sound of it.
Now, I'm putting together a sound for my friend. I'm sort of cloning the CBTs (I can arrange for 4ohms or 8 ohms) and have a subwoofer good to go (22hz - 120hz, re=3.4 ohms).
I've listed 4 versions found on Aliexpress.
The YJ redboard deluxe (same as mine, with inductors)
The YJ redboard three pots.
The blueboard, adjustable subwoofer crossover
The blueboard, small circuit + OPA2604, with inductors.
I'm more into acoustic, but swapping components wouldnt be a problem, I like the smell of welding
Any takes?
Thanks.
I'd love to know if anyone can find what the xover slope is on any of the 2.1 boards that have adjustable subwoofer cover. I have the Breeze 2.1 but so far the sub outputs are useless to me because they allow too much upper bass lower mid to get through. Now if that problem could be solved that zowie what a find!