I have used RF gaskets some years ago for a 2.4GHz RFID warehouse automation project (I wrote the Windows and AS400 software).
They worked very fine.
The real pain was to get the appropriate RF shielding from the metal box.
An RFID transceiver was placed inside the metal box and it should read and write only the RFID active devices inside the box, avoiding to read and write the other RFID units outside but close enough to the metal box.
There were a couple of sliding drawers in the metal box that were opened to insert active RFID devices to read and write.
The RF gaskets were also used to obtain a perfect closing of the sliding drawers and they worked very well.
If I remember correctly 12mm thick steel was used to get the needed shielding in order to avoid unwanted read and write outside the metal box.
They worked very fine.
The real pain was to get the appropriate RF shielding from the metal box.
An RFID transceiver was placed inside the metal box and it should read and write only the RFID active devices inside the box, avoiding to read and write the other RFID units outside but close enough to the metal box.
There were a couple of sliding drawers in the metal box that were opened to insert active RFID devices to read and write.
The RF gaskets were also used to obtain a perfect closing of the sliding drawers and they worked very well.
If I remember correctly 12mm thick steel was used to get the needed shielding in order to avoid unwanted read and write outside the metal box.
Hello,
It seems that one of the first thing to take care of is that there are no '' gaps '' in the shielding.
My goal is to get the better results than what is offered by the solution other people are using. My box offers thicker material and less gaps so it should work better.
If a thicker steel box would offer more sonic benefits i could ask my old coworker to make a few.
Of course the example Andrea is describing looks more critical to me/
Greetings, Eduard
It seems that one of the first thing to take care of is that there are no '' gaps '' in the shielding.
My goal is to get the better results than what is offered by the solution other people are using. My box offers thicker material and less gaps so it should work better.
If a thicker steel box would offer more sonic benefits i could ask my old coworker to make a few.
Of course the example Andrea is describing looks more critical to me/
Greetings, Eduard
Hi Eduard,
it was a totally different project and much more critical.
You don't need such shielding for the oscillators and the frequency doublers.
Anyway RF gaskets could be a nice solution although we have not tried it.
Andrea
it was a totally different project and much more critical.
You don't need such shielding for the oscillators and the frequency doublers.
Anyway RF gaskets could be a nice solution although we have not tried it.
Andrea
Hello,
With the stomping boxes i am using it is pretty easy to make something that almost works like it is made out of one piece.
This RF just needs a tiny opening to go to the other side. If this is enough to disturb a nearby component then your all your investments have been a waste of money.
greetings, eduard
With the stomping boxes i am using it is pretty easy to make something that almost works like it is made out of one piece.
This RF just needs a tiny opening to go to the other side. If this is enough to disturb a nearby component then your all your investments have been a waste of money.
greetings, eduard
I am not aware of any RF interference once the oscillators and frequency doublers have been closed in their aluminum boxes.
Maybe there could be serious interference by stacking devices on the Raspberry, but that's not our way.
Maybe there could be serious interference by stacking devices on the Raspberry, but that's not our way.
Thank you Andrea,
Lucky me I soldered the 100 ohms.
SO you say I can solder 100 ohms for the 22/24 AT in spite of 120 ohms as well... perfecto I have some 100 ohms Sussumu on hands !
About the Nex EXO SC-Cut and the PP through hole, I see the traffo is a 20V, could a 18V be enough, please ? I ask cause I have some nice R-Core-
I think it should be still 5V upon what the regulator network is needing after R1 for the 15/16 V needs of the EXO, right ? I have just one EXO board and no doubler...
Hello Andrea,
So if it wont improve RF interference it will surely improve immunity for vibrations because it is almost airtight and because of the adding of vinyl coating on the inside. The dry sand will give further improvement because of weight and vibration killing properties. I have to check if adding a cotton/wool '' lining'' will improve things.
Bury the circuit completely in dry sand isnt that difficult. Once the board is attached to the box a kind of grommet could be mandatory around the power plug to prevent the sand from pouring outside.
Just fill the box with sand while regularly shaking and then cover it with a layer of foam before attaching the lid.
Greetings, Eduard
P.s Will have to check if it needs to be sand from a river bank or if it has to be one from a beach!
D
Deleted member 537459
Hello,
Will get the one used in childrens playground because that one is supposed to have no contamination. Maybe i can add some Mediterranean herbs.
I know it must be absolutely dry.
Greetings, eduard
Will get the one used in childrens playground because that one is supposed to have no contamination. Maybe i can add some Mediterranean herbs.
I know it must be absolutely dry.
Greetings, eduard
That's probably because the DDSes are used to mix down to baseband,
and there needs to be some space left for the baseband. Otherwise that would require
a lot of effort (mixing up, filtering, mixing down etc)
It would be hard to display a phase noise spectrum to 100 KHz when the original
carrier is already there.
cheers, Gerhard
The challenge will be in building a hybrid image reject mixers/single sideband upconverter to go down to audio frequencies.
With a , say, 200 or 500 KHz low pass between the DUT and the
Mixers, normal high level ring mixers should do.
The Wilkinson power divider to distribute the DUT to the 2 channels
would be more interesting, from concentrated parts.
I wonder If one could use the reference oscillators for upmixing or
if that breaks the independence of the channels. Probably not.
The AF range would then appear from 5 to 5.2 MHz for the timepod.
The 10 MHz mirror is easily suppressed.
Mixers, normal high level ring mixers should do.
The Wilkinson power divider to distribute the DUT to the 2 channels
would be more interesting, from concentrated parts.
I wonder If one could use the reference oscillators for upmixing or
if that breaks the independence of the channels. Probably not.
The AF range would then appear from 5 to 5.2 MHz for the timepod.
The 10 MHz mirror is easily suppressed.
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I have a set of TWTMC-D and TWTMC-D&D that I am trying to interface with a FifoPi Q1.
My understanding is the FifoPi Q1 does not have the ability to switch between clocks except using the oscillator EN pin.
I have tried to route the EN pins of the oscillator sockets to the pulse inputs of the relay switching of the TWTMC-D&D board, but this does not seem to work.
How have others done this?
Thanks
My understanding is the FifoPi Q1 does not have the ability to switch between clocks except using the oscillator EN pin.
I have tried to route the EN pins of the oscillator sockets to the pulse inputs of the relay switching of the TWTMC-D&D board, but this does not seem to work.
How have others done this?
Thanks
I believe the problem is the voltage level of the EN signal which I think is 3V3.
The D&D board needs 5V to switch, so you should add an optocoupler after the EN to shift the level from 3V3 to 5V.
The D&D board needs 5V to switch, so you should add an optocoupler after the EN to shift the level from 3V3 to 5V.
Andrea, do you need all the switching part of the D&D board with a MC DUAL or a FIFO Pi ? Is that not the IanCanada board that choose one of the two crystals ?
I'm going to put the previous Discrol on the MC Dual or FIFO Pi : D1D wupply with the two PPmicro on it : 6V for the Discroll and 3V3 for the squarer and cut the supply pin of the FIFOPi 3V3 socket -or isolate it not to touch the squarer- : Is it a bad idea or impossible ? two AT6cut here
Btw same plan with the New EXO SC-Cut on the FifoPi but with the 16V PP bare supply and a PPMicro for the 3V3 for the squarer. - maybe with 24 AT-Cut on a Discroll for the second frequency !
I'm going to put the previous Discrol on the MC Dual or FIFO Pi : D1D wupply with the two PPmicro on it : 6V for the Discroll and 3V3 for the squarer and cut the supply pin of the FIFOPi 3V3 socket -or isolate it not to touch the squarer- : Is it a bad idea or impossible ? two AT6cut here
Btw same plan with the New EXO SC-Cut on the FifoPi but with the 16V PP bare supply and a PPMicro for the 3V3 for the squarer. - maybe with 24 AT-Cut on a Discroll for the second frequency !
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I don't know if MC DUAL and FIFO Pi provide the the multiplexer to switch between the two clocks, if not so you have to use the switching part of the D&D board.
Please, ask Ian.
In order to provide separate supply to the sine to square converters you have to remove the Vcc pin.
Please, ask Ian.
In order to provide separate supply to the sine to square converters you have to remove the Vcc pin.
Thanks. Not sure I have understood what both you said. It's my limited understanding than most of digital frontend are recognising the family frequency of what is playbacked and send it to one of the two crystals sockets. I don'tunderstand if both are powered on in the same time or if one has to be switched off by the logic before in relation to the frequency that is playbacked and recognised by the FCPA chips before. I didn't understand that point both at thread and datasheet reading about the D&D power supply/Masterclock board combo at the same time (dividers, relay, etc).
I ask cause I saw a shematic on the D&D pdf that is showing you use with it two Discrol on a Dual clock and FifoPi from IanCanada. I don't understand though if that means one MUST keep the 3V3 on the IANCANDA boards in order that can work. But the post before gives me a doubt as the possibility on the D&D to use on crystal while the other is switched off by the relay.
I'm lost in translation about asking Ian here as you did that D&D and Discroll in order to work on his designs ! I think it's more a words understanding context !
So I try to re ask on a different way perhaps :
For working on third party clock pcb : should I keep the 3V3 of these third party clock boards (FifoPi, Dual or MC Clock board here) or cut it for you better 3V3 power supply that feed the squarer boards.
Sorry if the question is stupid or out of context, you know my understanding in electronic is quite low !
Just want to use your two generation designs the best way !
I ask cause I saw a shematic on the D&D pdf that is showing you use with it two Discrol on a Dual clock and FifoPi from IanCanada. I don't understand though if that means one MUST keep the 3V3 on the IANCANDA boards in order that can work. But the post before gives me a doubt as the possibility on the D&D to use on crystal while the other is switched off by the relay.
I'm lost in translation about asking Ian here as you did that D&D and Discroll in order to work on his designs ! I think it's more a words understanding context !
So I try to re ask on a different way perhaps :
For working on third party clock pcb : should I keep the 3V3 of these third party clock boards (FifoPi, Dual or MC Clock board here) or cut it for you better 3V3 power supply that feed the squarer boards.
Sorry if the question is stupid or out of context, you know my understanding in electronic is quite low !
Just want to use your two generation designs the best way !
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