Hi Studley,
If you ordered the old version (they were discounted) then you can use a small stamped aluminum heatsink like this. No need to use the big Fischer ones that are massive and extruded construction. Not that much dissipation here.
If you ordered the old version (they were discounted) then you can use a small stamped aluminum heatsink like this. No need to use the big Fischer ones that are massive and extruded construction. Not that much dissipation here.
Dual Rail SLB needs two separate transformer secondary windings, one for each LT4320 active rectifier.
Center tap trafo is not useable with SLB.
Center tap trafo is not useable with SLB.
Thanks X. I was convinced I’d ordered V2 but having looked back at my order they are V1. No worries, easy fix. Have you got a part number for that smaller heatsink by chance?
You can search on eBay, Aliexpress, Amazon etc. any cheap small To-220 heatsink will work.
For example:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_msKBioi
Or
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO3LoYw
If you don’t want to wait 2 weeks you can find “TO-220 heatsinks” at your usual parts supplier.
For example:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CUI-Devices/HSS20-B20-NP?qs=t7xnP681wgWcD864f0OYeg==
For example:
https://a.aliexpress.com/_msKBioi
Or
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mO3LoYw
If you don’t want to wait 2 weeks you can find “TO-220 heatsinks” at your usual parts supplier.
For example:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CUI-Devices/HSS20-B20-NP?qs=t7xnP681wgWcD864f0OYeg==
I have seen someone link the 0 on the secondary with another wire to each other. Would that fry the expensive lt4320
Don’t fry your precious LT4320’s that are out of stock just about everywhere. Get another transformer with dual secondaries, Anteks work well, plenty of stock and budget friendly. SLB is not compatible with center tapped trafo 😉.
I have had great luck with Antek. I looked elsewhere but always come to the conclusion that they are very convenient and a decent product.
Yes. I have a cheap 20-0-20 on hand. Just wanted to save some coin.
Started doing diy to save money, but it’s a slippery slope. 😂
Started doing diy to save money, but it’s a slippery slope. 😂
Hi X,
Not sure if I have missed this in the thread somewhere, can you give a quick guide as to setting (adjusting) the 200ohm pots RV1 and RV2 on the dual SLB board thanks.
Kind regards,
Gary.
Not sure if I have missed this in the thread somewhere, can you give a quick guide as to setting (adjusting) the 200ohm pots RV1 and RV2 on the dual SLB board thanks.
Kind regards,
Gary.
Posts 1484 to 1488. In summary, there is not much of a voltage change at all, perhaps 1-1.5 volts. What you want to do is adjust it for lowest ripple on a scope, while having it connected to the load you desire and set it there.
Best,
Anand.
With a fixed value resistor to replace the pot, would be good - but that value might be different for different max current drawn as supplied by the regulator. Have you looked into this at all X?
These R17, R18 resistors are burnt again.
I had successfully get about +/- 27 VDC from this SLB before.
I didn't have any errors and problems.
I have some burnt R17, R18 resistors after I tried putting it in my wooden case.
I guess .. maybe the length of the flying lead wires are not enough long, so lead wires have been tighten sometimes and minifit connection became loose.
I have made using 18awg wire, so some pins of the connector have not been inserted deeply.
I will make long enough length flying leads again, and try again.
I had successfully get about +/- 27 VDC from this SLB before.
I didn't have any errors and problems.
I have some burnt R17, R18 resistors after I tried putting it in my wooden case.
I guess .. maybe the length of the flying lead wires are not enough long, so lead wires have been tighten sometimes and minifit connection became loose.
I have made using 18awg wire, so some pins of the connector have not been inserted deeply.
I will make long enough length flying leads again, and try again.
“I have some burnt R17, R18 resistors after I tried putting it in my wooden case.”
With all due respect, and I do not mean to offend, but this case solution is an unsafe, disastrous train wreck! I’m all for DIY creativity and thinking outside the ‘box’ but safety needs to be taken seriously.
Build your external SLB power supply in a proper chassis.
With all due respect, and I do not mean to offend, but this case solution is an unsafe, disastrous train wreck! I’m all for DIY creativity and thinking outside the ‘box’ but safety needs to be taken seriously.
Build your external SLB power supply in a proper chassis.
Thank you for your advising. I'll think about it seriously.
Anyway, about burnt resistors... I have fixed it finally with connecting BJTs directly to pin holes of PCB instead of Molex minifit connector.
I have +/- 27.2 VDC output from SLB. I am happy now.
Anyway, about burnt resistors... I have fixed it finally with connecting BJTs directly to pin holes of PCB instead of Molex minifit connector.
I have +/- 27.2 VDC output from SLB. I am happy now.